IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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t.ai 


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^^6 
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f/u 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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D 
D 


D 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
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La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6td  filmdes. 

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point  de  vue  bibliographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmuge 
sont  sndiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 


n 


D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
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Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessoLs. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

1 

1 

1 

X] 

^ammj 

_ 

1 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

1 

The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


Fier 

e 

ge 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
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filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  4t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  Texemplaire  film^,  et  en 
conformity  3veo  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmaga. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  fiSmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  ot  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemp*aires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  ein 
papier  est  imprim^e  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  plar  jhes,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich4,  il  est  1ilm6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  h  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammee  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


ita 


lure. 


] 


iX 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

|,.iw..'kl..i.■»4i>;^i*ViW.■w^■»^;,^■J,,ll^■i^.^^j■,J,■J^^^^.^  ,     ..•i  ,^v-;  ;,'*.:,*f*^iiU^*-^-~v-vW-aiiiE?if.*^ 


<ia^:.^^^-i^ 


THE  NEW  "GENESEE" 


BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 


EDWARD  P.  HARRIS,  Prop. 


American  and  European  Plan. 


if 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  presenting  this  work,  " The  Phat  Boy's  Historic  De- 
lineations," of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  from  Kingston 
to  Montreal,  the  only  correct  description  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence River,  before  the  public,  being  a  round  trip  from  New 
York  to  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  Kingston,  Alexan- 
dria Bay,  Thousand  Islands  and  Rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence to  Montreal,  Quebec,  Lake  Champlain,  Lake  George, 
Saratoga,  Albany,  New  York  and  Boston.  (Just  completed 
the  "  Phat  Boy's  "  Map  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  being  a  birds 
eye  view  of  the  route  from  Kingston  to  Montreal,  showing 
every  Island,  Town,  Village,  City,  River,  Creek  or  Stream, 
Rapid,  Canal  or  Light  House,  and  route  of  all  the  steam- 
ers.) It  may  not  be  amiss  to  state  the  fact  which  prompt- 
ed its  issue.  Financial  or  personal  ends  are  always  the 
paramount  object  to  be  attained  by  an  individual  who  puts 
forth  anything  in  this  vo^'ld.  I  therefore  plead  guilty  to 
the  above  charge,  and  for  so  doing  propose  to  give  to  the 
tourist  or  traveler  down  the  majestic  St.  Lawrence  a  faith- 
ful description  of  every  point  of  interest  that  meets  the  eye 
of  the  beholder. 

Having  held  the  position  for  ten  years  of  "  The  Guide  of 
the  St  Lawrence,"  and  in  that  capacity  made  the  trip  a 
pleasant  one  for  everybody  without  regard  to  age,  weight, 
sex,  color,  or  previous  condition  of  servitude,  I  feel  capable 
of  compiling  a  book  which  does  not  contain  any  pictorial 
illustrations  of  the  scenic  beauty  connected  with  the  trip, 


■>•:{ 

i:.*^. 


feeling  confident  that  a  plain  unvarnished  description  of  all 
the  various  points  of  interest  would  be  sufficient.  The 
tourist  can  thus  feast  the  eye  on  a  thousand  pictures  that  a 
volume  ten  times  this  size  could  not  contain,  for  no  matter 
how  often  you  open  the  eyes  during  the  day,  they  will  fall 
upon  some  delightful  scene,  where  the  God  of  nature  has 
smiled  upon,  within  an  hour.  Neither  have  I  given  a 
highly  colored  description  of  the  Rapids ;  they  have  been 
viewed  and  described  by  thousands,  and  the  effect  produced 
is  as  varied  in  character  as  the  ind;/idual  writers  differed  in 
temperament  and  looks. 

Trusting  that  this  volume  may  meet  with  as  cheerful  a 
greeting  by  the  public  as  it  has  always  accorded  my  eflforts 
to  please,  and  if  its  perusal  causes  the  weary  or  lonesome 
traveler  one  hour  of  mirth  or  pleasure,  its  mission  will  have 
been  accomplished. 


Respectfully  Yours, 

E.  F.  BABBAG^^- 


Phat  Boy," 


Guide  fo  the  St.  Lawrence. 


-'<■ 


tion  of  all 
ent.  The 
ires  that  a 
no  matter 
;y  will  fall 
nature  has 
[  given  a 
have  been 
t  produced 
differed  in 

cheerful  a 
my  efforts 
r  lonesome 
1  will  have 


Boy," 
Lawrence. 


*♦' 


REFERENCES  FOR  THIS  WORK. 

We  have  a  number  of  references  as  to  the  worth  of  this 
little  volume.  Space  and  time  forbid  a  mention  of  them 
all ;  some  of  the  most  prominent  will  suffice. 

I.  At  Alexandria  Cay  last  season,  a  lady  had  the  misfor- 
tune to  sprain  her  ankle,  (no  matter  how  ;  but  we  will  say, 
least  some  one  may  be  led  astray  as  to  the  real  cause,  that 
it  was  not  done  falling  or  stumbUng  over  the  editor.)  We 
very  kindly  gave  her  a  copy  of  the  "  Phat  Boy's  "  Delinea- 
tions of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  she  was  able  to  walk 
in  ten  hours  after  the  accident,  apparently  as  well  as  ever. 

3.  This  volume  will  not  bring  home  a  stray  cow  ;  but  it 
will  do  the  next  best  thing  :  milk  them  in  the  pasture,  thus 
saving  the  wear  and  tear  incident  to  their  coming  home. 

3.  The  delight  and  pleasure  that  the  perusal  of  your  little 
volume  gave  me,  I  am  unable  to  Express. — Susan  B. 

N.  B.— Then  send  it  by  Freight.—"  Phat  Bov." 

4.  A  lady  who  had  one  copy  (by  the  way,  she  was  mar- 
ried,) wrote  for  the  second;  it  was  sent  to  her;  but  mean- 
while she  had  changed  her  residence  to  the  I^unatic  Asylum. 
Now  here  is  a  chance  for  married  men  who  wish  to  become 
single  for  25  cents-    Send  for  a  copy. 

5.  A  very  restless,  nervous  man  bought  a  copy ;  read  to 
page  ao,  went  to  sleep  quietly  for  ten  hours.  First  good 
rest  in  four  years. 

6.  It  is  good  for  maiden  ladies  ;  has  been  known  to  cure 
headache,  toothache,  sprains,  bruises,  ingrowing  nails,  and 
it  matters  not. 

7.  Eli  Perkins  will  read  a  copy  of  this  work,  August  a  5  th, 
1885,  and  from  that  day  until  death  will  speak  the  truth. 


■■ 


HISTORIC    DELINEATIONS 

— or — 
THE  ST    LAWRENCE  RIVER, 


THE  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  its  Thousand  Islands 
and  Rapids,  is  day  by  dav  attracting  more  and  more 
attention  am  >g  tourists.  There  is  so  much  that  is  grand, 
weird,  sublime  and  exhilerating  in  the  scenery  and  balmy 
atmosphere  of  the  majestic  river,  as  it  passes  in  its  onward 
flow  from  the  lake  to  the  gulf,  that  we  need  not  for  a  mo- 
ment wonder  why  it  is  that  there  is  a  great  annual  increase 
in  the  number  of  those  intelligent  people,  who,  from  East, 
West  and  South,  repair  to  its  placid  waters  in  summer  to 
recuperate  their  wasted  energies  and  enjoy  that  luxuriating 
season  known  to  every  American  as  "  vacation." 

A  vacation  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  means  a  sojourn  at 
some  pretentious  or  lowly  cottage,  or  at  some  hotel  of 
either  class  for  a  few  days,  or  for  one,  two  or  more  weeks, 
as  the  time,  finances  and  inclination  of  the  individual  may 
dictate ;  or  it  may,  as  in  hundreds  of  instances  it  does,  only 
include  a  voyage  of  rapid  transit,  from  New  York  to  Utica, 
Niagara  Falls,  Lewiston,  Toronto  or  Kingston  to  Alexan- 
dria Bay  or  Montreal  then  return  home.  There  are  several 
different  popular  starting  places  to  reach  the  river  j  it  is 
presumed  you  will  take  the  most  convenient  one,  and  we 
will  consider  ourselves  pleased  with  the  selection. 


ir 


■■■w^tH**"' 


'^^ 


JS 


id   Islands 

and  more 

It  is  grand, 

and  balmy 

its  onward 

t  for  a  mo- 

lal  increase 

from  East, 

summer  to 

luxuriating 

sojourn  at 
le  hotel  of 
lore  weeks, 
vidual  may 
c  does,  only 
k  to  Utica, 
to  Alexan- 
are  several 
river ;  it  is 
ne,  and  we 


OUTE 


THE  WEST  SHORE  ROUTE 


THE  TOURIST  ROUTE  OF  THE  NORTH 


While  many  suppose  that  both  sides  of  the  Hudson  River 
present  equal  attraction —and  it  would  be  hard  to  decide 
which  is  the  most  beautiful — it  is  a  curious  fact  that  all,  or 
nearly  all,  the  noted  summer  resorts  for  which  the  country 
adjacent  is  famous  are  located  on  its  westeni  bank.  Thus, 
starting  from  New  York  and  following  up  the  West  Shore 
Route,  we  And  the  Palisades,  Tappan,  Rockland  Lake, 
Stony  Point,  Cranston's,  West  Point,  Cornwall,  Lakci  Mo- 
honk  and  Minnewaska,  the  Catskills,  Saratoga,  Mount 
McGregor,  and  the  Adirondacks  (in  which  the  great  river 
rises),  all  on  the  same  side,  and  all  easily  accessible  by  the 
New  York,  West  Shore  and  Buffalo  Raihvay.  In  addition 
to  these,  the  magnificent  cars  of  this  route  convey  the  trav- 
eler to  Lake  George,  Lake  Champlain  and  Montreal,  on 
the  north  ;  Sharon  Springs,  Cooperstown,  Richfield  Springs, 
Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo  and  Chatauqua  Lake,  and  make 
close  connections  for  all  the  White  Mountain  and  Eastern 
resorts,  for  the  Thousand  Islands,  Watkin's  Glen  and  the 
Lake  region  of  Central  New  York.     It  is  thus  emphatically 


■V^MlM 


':n 


■  S! 


8 

the  tourists  route  of  the  north,  and,  reaHzing  this  fact,  its 
projectors  and  managers  have  done  everything  in  their 
power  to  render  it  attractive  to  this  constantly  increasing 
and  most  fastidious  class  of  travelers. 

While  traversing  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  a  State 
noted  for  its  scenery,  this  railway  is  the  most  complete  in 
all  details  of  cx)nstruction  and  equipment  of  any  in  this 
country.  It  is  a  double  track,  steel  rail  line,  with  an  un- 
usually wide  space  between  tracks,  running  north  from  Jer- 
sey City  along  the  west  shore  of  the  Hudson  to  Albany, 
iind  thence  through  the  fertile  Valley  of  the  Mohawk  and 
across  Central  New  York,  touching  at  Utica,  Syracuse  and 
Rochester,  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls.  Its  grades  are 
easy,  its  curves  are  light,  its  steel  rails  are  among  the  heav- 
iest known  in  railway  construction,  and  its  road-bed  will  be 
crowned  with  a  deep  ballasting  of  stone. 

Owing  to  this  excellent  road-bed  and  the  great  stren';f:h 
of  i's  iron  bridges  this  company  has  been  able  to  br,ild  ex- 
ceptionally heavy  locomotives  foj-  its  various  classes  of  traf- 
fic. The  passenger  engines  bum  anthracite  coal,  and  are 
designed  to  haul  trains  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  coaches  at  a 
high  rate  of  speed.  They  are  provided  with  special  ar- 
rangements in  the  fire  and  smoke  boxes  and  smoke  stacks 
to  consume  all  gases,  and  prevent  the  escape  of  smoke  or 
cinders. 


LOCOMOTIVES,  CARS   AND  STATION   HOUSES. 

The  entire  passenger  equipment  of  the  road  was  especi- 
ally designed  and  built  by  the  Pullman  Palace  Car  Com- 
pany, and  is  the  most  complete  in  all  details  pertaining  to 
elegance  of  finish,  comfort  and  safety  in  the  world.     From 


7 


ing  this  fact,  its 

trything  in  their 

;ant]y  increasing 

>idons  of  a  State 

lost  complete  in 

t  of  any  in  this 

ine,  with  an  un- 

north  from  Jer- 

ison  to  Albany, 

' 

( 

he  Mohawk  and 

:a,  Syracuse  and 

Its  grades  are 

among  the  heav- 

road-bed  will  be 

e  great  streD'ifh 

able  to  br.ild  ex- 

is  classes  of  traf- 

ite  coal,  and  are 

en  coaches  at  a 

with  special  ar- 

.       ; 

nd  smoke  stacks 

V 

ape  of  smoke  or 

ON   HOUSES. 

road  was  especi- 

'. 

alace  Car  Com- 

ils  pertaining  to 

1 

le  world.     From 

4 

m 

the  palatial  buffet  cars,  with  interiors  finished  in  variegated 
hard-woods  and  furnished  with  plate.glass  mirrors,  luxurious 
arm-chairs,  soft  carpets  and  rich  drapery,  to  the  smoking 
cars,  finished  with  figured  oak  and  provided  with  revolving 
chairs,  upholstered  in  leather,  all  are  the  most  perfect  speci- 
mens of  the  car-builder's  art  extant.  The  exterior  of  the 
cars  making  up  West  Shore  passenger  trains  is  painted  in  a 
rich  oark  olive  and  gold,  which  produces  a  most  pleasing 
effect. 

The  station  houses  erected  along  the  entire  route  from 
.  New  York  to  Bu3alo  are  architectural  gems,  harmonious  in 
color  and  design  with  the  beautiful  and  picturesque  scenery 
through  which  ths  road  passes.  Those  at  the  New  York 
terminus,  at  Kingston,  Albany,  Utica.  Syracuse  and  Buffalo 
will,  when  finished,  surpass  in  completeness  and  artistic  de- 
sign any  series  of  railway  stations  ever  erected  by  a  single 
company. 

THE   NEW   YORK  STATION. 

The  New  York  terminus  of  this  great  railway  was  pro- 
jected upon  a  scale  of  vastness  and  perfection  of  detail  com- 
mensurate with  the  rest  of  the  magnificent  scheme.  It  is  at 
Weehawken,  opposite  the  heart  of  the  great  city,  and  close 
beneath  the  height  on  which  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  be- 
fore the  pistol  of  Aaron  Burr.  It  extends  for  more  than  a 
mile  along  the  river  front,  and,  with  its  numerous  docks  and 
piers,  presents  nearly  six  miles  of  working  space  m  which 
vessels  of  every  description  mav  receive  freight.  From  here 
commodious  and  elegantly  appointed  ferry-boats  run  to  the 
handsome  up-town  passenger  station  at  tlie  foot  of  Forty- 
second  Street.     The  express  trains  of  the  West  Shore  Route 


\'A 


mm 


m^ 


(fel^>'Miu'i\|>"itiii*i«<»««tiiti»yii»i«lf»i<n£7i<"iif-''>ijii 


lO 

leave  from  and  arrive  at  the  down  town  station,  foot  of  Jay 
Street,  accessible  from  Elevated  stations  at  Franklin,  Cham- 
bers an  J  Barclay  Streets;  also  leave  from  and  arrive  at  the 
up  town  station  at  the  foot  of  West  42nd  Stn  et,  New  York, 
and  from  the  foot  of  Fulton  Street,  Brooklyn.  The  pas- 
senger from  New  York  has  thus  an  option  of  starting  from 
any  one  of  half  a  dozen  points,  a  great  convenience  when 
one  considers  the  peculiar  position  and  length  of  the  city. 
Passengers  are  cautioned  to  consult  official  time-tables  in 
the  Company's  publications,  or  in  the  leading  newspapers, 
with  the  view  of  ascertaining  just  what  trains  leave  from 
and  arrive  at  the  various  stations  named. 

In  the  subsequent  pages  one  may  obtain  partial  glimpses 
of  some  of  the  innumerable  delightful  places  to  which  this 
highway  for  business  and  pleasure  travel  will  guide  him,  and 
a  few  hints  of  the  many  pleasures  in  store  for  his  summer 
holiday. 

BETWEEN    NEW    YORK  AND   THE   THOUSAND 
ISLANDS. 

"THE  ONTARIO  ROUTE." 

New  York,  Ontario  &   Western  Railway   Co. 

Running  from  New  York  to  the  City  of  Oswego  on  Lake 
Ontario,  and  in  connection  with  the  R.  W.  &  O.  P.  R. 
from  Cape  Vincent,  forming  the  most  attractive  route  to 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  It  is  the  only  line  running  Pull- 
man sleepers  through  without  change  between  New  York 
and  the  Thousands  Islands.  On  arrival  of  trains  at  Cape 
Vincent  the  new  steamer  St.  Lawrence,  the  handsomest  and 
swiftest  on  the  River,  leaves  tor  all  landings  among  the 
Islands. 


)ot  of  Jay 
in,  Cham- 

ve  at  the 
few  York, 

The  pas- 
ting from 
ice  when 
'  the  city, 
-tables  in 
wspapers, 
Jave  from 

glimpses 

hich  this 

him,  and 

•  summer 

'USAND 


ay    Co. 

on  Lake 
0.  P.  R. 
route  to 
ing  Pull- 
;w  York 
at  Cape 
nest  and 
long  the 


The  train  carrying  through  sleepers  leaves  New  York  at 
5:30  p.  m.,  arriving  at  Cape  Vincent  at  9:30  a.  m.,  and  Al- 
exandria Bay  at  11:30  a.  m.;  giving  tourists  a  delightful  ride 
of  twenty-five  miles  down  the  Islands  to  the  Bay.  Amplf 
time  is  given  at  Richland  for  breakfast.  Returning  the  St. 
Lawrence  leaves  Alexandria  Bay  at  4:00  p.  m.,  arriving  at 
Cape  Vincent  at  6:00  p.  m.,  and  train  leaves  at  6:10  p.  m., 
arriving  in  New  York  at  9:30  a.  m. 

The  depots  and  ferries  of  the  New  York,  Ontario  &  Wes- 
tern Railway,  are  located  in  New  York  at  the  foot  of  West 
42nd  Street  and  Harrison  Street,  from  which  points  com- 
modious and  elegantly  appointed  ferry  boats  run  to  the 
passenger  station  at  Weehawken,  and  in  Brooklyn  at  the 
foot  of  Fulton,  Brooklyn  Annex. 

The  route  of  the  Ontario  and  Western,  after  leaving 
Weehawken,  is  west  of  the  Palisades,  through  the  counties 
of  Bergen  in  New  Jersey,  and  Rockland  in  New  York,  fol- 
lowing the  fertile  and  romantic  valley  of  the  Hackensack. 
At  Valley  Cottage  the  road  tunnels  through  the  mountains 
and  for  sixteen  miles  skirts  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  through 
the  Highlands,  traversing  all  the  historic  and  picturesque 
points  along  that  world-famed  stream.  Then  over  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Catskills,  through  the  mountains  of  Central  New 
York,  and  along  the  valleys  of  the  Delaware,  Neversink, 
Beaverkill  and  Chenango  Rivers  with  their  lovely  pictur- 
esque views  of  mountain,  lake  and  river,  to  Lake  Ontario,, 
making  one  of  the  most  beautiful  routes  across  the  Empire 
State. 

The  night  express  trains  run  every  day  including  Sunday. 
The  Pullman  buffet  sleepers  are  of  the  latest  models,  and 


«■ 


13 


complete  in  all  details  pertaining  to  elegance  of  finish,  com- 
fort and  safety. 

The  City  of  Kingston,  Ontario,  is  easily  reached  from 
Cape  Vincent  via  Steamer  Maud,  which  leaves  after  the  ar- 
rival of  train  from  New  York,  and  returning  leaves  in  the 
afternoon,  connecting  with  train  for  the  south 

The  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  leaving 
the  Grand  Central  Depot,  42nd  Street,  New  York,  passes 
along  the  beautiful  Hudson  River  to  Albany,  then  the  great 
four  tracked  railroad  of  the  world  conveys  you  to  Utica 
(where  the  direct  connections  are  made  with  the  Utica  & 
Black  River  R.  R. ;  then  the  traveler  can  if  he  desires  pass 
over  this  popular  route,  reaching  in  a  few  hours  the  majes- 
tic St.  Lawrence  at  Clayton,  connecting  with  the  steamers 
of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  direct 
for  Montreal),  Syracuse,  Rochester,  Buffalo  or 

NIAGARA   FALLS. 

The  ticket  office  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  and  Riche- 
lieu and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  Royal  Mail  Line  is 
located  at  No.  4  International  Hotel,  and  is  presided  over 
by  Mrs.  L.  Barber,  who  will  cheerfully  give  you  any  infor- 
mation desired.  Trains  leave  the  Falls  every  morning,  Sun- 
day excepted,  by  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  to  Toronto,  and  arrive 
in  time  to  connect  with  Mail  Line  for  Montreal.  Trains 
leave  Niagara  Falls  every  morning,  except  Sunday,  at  9:05 
a.  m.,  via.  Central  Hudson  Branch  for  Lewiston,  where  con- 
nections are  made  with  the  fast  sailing  side  wheel  steamboat 

CHICORA, 

crossing  the  beautiful  Lake  Ontario  and  arriving  in  Toron- 


^-nmv^nniv 


lish,  com 


led  from 
!r  the  ar- 
is  in  the 

.,  leaving 
k,  passes 
the  great 
to  Utica 
Utica  & 
iires  pass 
le  majes- 
steainers 
ly  direct 


1  Riche- 
Line  is 
led  over 
ly  infor- 
ng,  Sun- 
id  arrive 
Trains 
at  9:05 
ere  c&n- 
amboat 

Toron- 


to in  time  to  connect  with  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Naviga- 
tion Company  Royal  Mail  Line  for  Kingston,  Alexandria 
Bay,  Thousand  Islands  and  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River  to  Montreal. 

"THANK     GOD"     NIAGARA     FALLS     IS 

FREE.-BORN    AGAIN. 

From  the  first  issue  of  this  little  volume  up  to  the  pres- 
ent I  have  labored  to  inform  the  public  regarding  the  many 
schemes  and  extortions  at  the  Falls;  been  the  only  cham- 
pion of  fifty  millions  of  people,  and  with  my  coat  off  and 
sleeves  rolled  up,  worked  for  the  passage  of  the  bill  to  make 
Niagara  Falls  free.  Now,  that  success  has  perched  upon 
our  banners,  we  propose  to  put  the  people  of  Niagara  Falls 
upon  the  stool  of  repentance  on  their  good  behavior  as  it 
were  for  the  season  of  1885.  After  that  time,  should  they 
merit  kind  treatment  or  praise  I  shall  be  most  happy  to  say 
so.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  they  desetve  censure  for  any 
device  or  schemes  t )  entrap  the  stranger  or  visitor,  I  shall 
ventilate  it,  and,  'as  in  the  past,  handle  them  without  gloves. 

Hoping  the  dear  public  will  sanction  the  charity  I  have 
displayed  and  post  me  regarding  their  treatment  at  the  Falls 
the  com'ng  season,  I  am  Respectfully  Yours, 

E.  F.  Babbage,  "Phat  Boy," 

21  Chestnut  Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

As  many  of  the  tourifits  leave  Niagara  Falls  in  the  morn- 
ing at  9:05  o'clock  by  rail  to  Lewiston,  and  connect  with  the 
Steamer  Chicora,  for  Toronto,  I  will  mention  the  places  and 
points. 


I ;  ;i* 


»4 

LEWISTON. 

This  village  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation,  on  the 
Lower  Niagara,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 
It  lies  three  miles  below  Devil's  Hole,  and  '^cven  miles 
below  the  Falls.  Lewiston  is  a  pleasant,  well  built  village, 
but  its  commercial  prospects  have  been  very  much  injured 
by  the  construction  of  the  Erie  and  Welland  Canals. 

^^  QUEENSTON 

is  a  small  village  situated  nearly  opposite  to  Lewiston,  and 
contains  about  350  inhabitants.  It  is  associated  in  history 
with  the  gallant  defence  r  ide  by  the  Entish  on  the  adjacent 
heights  in  the  war  of  1812.  The  village  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated, but  has  suffered  from  the  same  causes  that  have  re- 
tarded the  growth  of  Lewiston.  The  river  here  becomes 
more  tranquil,  the  shores  less  broken  and  wild,  and  the 
change  in  the  scenery  affords  a  pleasing  transition  from  the 
sublime  to  the  beautiful. 

BROCK'S    MONUMENT. 

The  monument  stands  on  the  H'iights  of  Queenston,  * 
from  whence  the  village  derives  its  name.  The  present 
structure  occupies  the  site  of  the  forraer  one,  which  was 
blown  up  by  some  miscreant  on  the  17th  of  April,  1840. 
The  whole  edifice  is  185  feet  high;  on  the  sub-base,  which 
is  40  feet  square  and  30  feet  high,  are  placed  four  lions,  fac- 
ing North,  South,  East  and  West ;  the  base  of  the  pedesul 
is  21^  feet  square  and  10  feet  high;  the  pedestal  itself  is  16 
feet  square  and  10  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  heavy  corn- 
ice, ornamented  with  Uons'  heads  and  wreaths  in  alto  relievo^ 
In  ascending  from  the  top  of  the  pedestal  to  the  top  of  the 


igation,  on  the 
e  importanoe. 
id  '^oven  miles 
:11  built  village, 
f  much  injured 
Canals. 


Lewiston,  and 
ated  in  history 
»n  the  adjacent 
)leasantly  situ- 
5  that  have  re- 
here  becomes 
wild,  and  the 
sition  from  the 


•f  Queenston,  ^ 

The  present 
lie,  which  was 
r  April,  1840. 
b-base,  which 
bur  lions,  fac- 
the  pedestal 
tal  itself  is  16 
I  heavy  corn- 
a  alto  relievo 
he  top  of  the 


k 


i 


base  of  the  shaft,  the  form  changes  from  squar:^  to  round. 
The  shaft  is  a  fluted  column  of  free-stone,  75  feet  high  and 
10  feet  in  diameter,  on  which  stands  a  Corinthian  capital 
10  feet  high,  whereon  is  wrought,  in  relief,  a  statue  of  the 
Goddess  of  War.  On  this  capital  is  the  dome  9  feet  high, 
reached  by  250  spiral  steps  from  the  base,  on  the  inside. 
On  the  top  of  the  dome  is  placed  a  colossal  statue  of  Gen- 
eral Brock. 

FORT  NIAGARA. 

This  fort  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  river,  on 
the  American  side.  There  are  many  interesting  associa- 
tions connected  with  this  spot,  as  during  the  early  part  of 
the  past  century,  it  was  the  scene  of  many  severe  conflicts 
between  the  whites  and  Indians,  and  subsequently  between 
the  English  and  French.  The  names  of  the  heroic  La 
Salle,  the  courtly  De  Nouville  and  the  gallant  Prideaux  will 
long  retain  a  name  in  the  history  of  this  country.  The  vil- 
lage adjacent  to  the  fort  is  called  Youngtown,  in  honor  of 
its  founder,  the  late  John  Young,  Esq. 

NIAGARA, 

is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Ontario  and  was  formerly  the 
capital  of  the  Province.  It  is  situated  where  the  old  town 
of  Newark  stood,  and  is  opposite  to  Youngtown.  It  faces 
the  river  on  one  side  of  Lake  Ontario.  The  trade  of  this 
place  has  been  diverted  to  St.  Catherines  since  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Welland  canal,  and  the  other  towms  upon  the 
Niagara  river  have  suffered  in  common  from  the  same  cause- 
The  Queens  Royal  Hotel  is  located  here,  and  when  I  say 
it  is  run  by  Messrs.  McGaw  &  Winnett  of  the  Queens  Ho- 


<A 


i6 


THE  QUEENS  HOTEL, 


TORONTO. 


THE  LARGEST  AND  BEST  HOTEL  IN  THE  CITY. 

Re-modeled,  Re-decorated  and  Enlarged  for  Season  of  1885. 

The  Coolest  Summer  House  in  Canada.' 

Beautiful  Croquet  and  Chevalier  Lawne. 

ELECTRIC  BELLS,  ELEVATORS,  BATHS,  ETC. 

N.  B. — This  is  the  safest  Hotel,  as  regards  fires,  in  Canada, 
being  for  the  most  part  but  three  stories  high  and  surrounded 
by  large  open  spaces  upon  all  sides. 


The  residence,  when  in  the  City,  of  the 

Governor  General. 


THE  TABLE  IS  UNSURPASSED  IN  CANADA. 
Porters  Mtiet^all  Boats  and  Trains. 


McGAW  &  WINNETT.   Props. 


AUBO  FROFRIKTOR8 

QUEENS  ROYAL,  TEOUM8EH  HOUSE, 


NlAOAKA,  ONT. 


liONDON,    ONT. 


EL, 


tlTY. 

of  1885. 

Lawns. 

ETC. 

Canada^ 
rounded 


I 


(AL. 

)A. 
)ps. 


IOU8E, 

NT. 


. 


% 


1 


tel  at  Toronto,  it  is  enough  in  its  praise.  The  best  Black 
Bass  fishing  on  the  Niagara  River  is  at  this  point,  50  Bass 
have  been  caught  in  an  hour  weighing  from  i  to  5  pounds 
each. 

THE  CITY  OF  TORONTO. 

Toronto,  the  capital  city  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  is 
situated  on  a  circular  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  was 
founded  by  Governor  Simcoe,  in  1794.  The)  city  was  for- 
merly called  York.  Toronto  bay  is  a  beautiful  inlet,  sepa- 
rated from  the  main  body  of  Lake  Ontario,  except  at  its 
entrance,  by  a  long,  narrow  sandy  beach.  The  South- West- 
em  extremity  is  called  Gibralter  Point.  It  is  165  miles 
from  Kingston,  45  miles  from  Hamilton,  and  50  miles  from 
the  falls  of  Niagara.  The  population  in  17 17  was  1,200; 
but  at  the  present  time  it  amounts  to  about  75,000.  The 
city  is  laid  out  at  right  angles.  Its  chief  public  buildings 
are  the  cathedrals  and  churches,  the  Parliament  House, 
University  of  Toronto,  Trinity  College,  Normal  School,  St. 
Michael's  College,  Osgoode  Hall,  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  Me- 
chanics Institute,  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum,  post-office, 
exchange  and  city  schools.  Its  system  of  free  public 
schools  is  one  of  the  most  perfect  and  best  conducted  in 
America.  Among  the  many  pleasant  drives  around  this 
city  the  traveler  should  visit  College  Avenue  and  the 
Queen's  Park.  In  this  park  is  erected  a  statue  of  the 
Queen  and  a  monument  to  commemorate  the  college 
youths  who  fell  at  Ridgeway  defending  the  country  from 
the  attacks  of  the  Fenians.  The  University  of  Toronto,  a 
most  magnificent  building,  is  also  situated  in  this  park. 
The  Parliament  of  Ontario  and  the  principal  law  courts  are 
held  in  this  city.     It  is  connected  by  the  Grand  Trunk 


■fiHfU 


(IliSi    »*»»Wll 


**'*™*fiPf!fiW'*' 


i8 


THE  ROSSIN  HOUSE 

TOROITTO,  OITTAKIO,  CANADA. 


THE  LEADING  HOTEL  IN  TORONTO. 

Strictly  FIrst-Class.  American  Plan. 

Prices  Graduated. 

Fire  Escape  In  all  Becirooms. 

The  entire  PlumbinK  of  this  Hotel  hte  l»een  renewed  this  Spring,  and 

the  lateet  improvements  Itnown  u.  •he  Sanitary  Bureaus  of 

Boston  and  New  York  adopted. 

MARK  H.  IRISH, 

HENRY  J.  NOLAN,  PROPRIETOR. 

Chief  Clerk. 


JSE 


}A. 


ElONTO. 

I  Plan. 


8  Spring,  and 
iireaus  of 


ISH, 
RIETOR. 


>9 

Railway  and  steamboats  for  all  points.  The  two  largest 
hotels  in  Toronto  a:e  the  Rossin  House  and  the  Queens 
Hotel.  These  hotels  have  every  mo<lern  improvement  and 
the  prices  are  graduated  according  to  location  of  room.  If 
carriages  are  needed  while  in  the  city  Telephone  No.  f.09, 
R.  Bond's  Livery  who  has  everything  first-class  in  the  car- 
riage line,  "A  i." 

PORT    HOPE 

is  situated  65  miles  from  Toronto.  A  small  stream,  which 
here  falls  into  the  lake,  has  formed  a  valley,  in  which  the 
town  is  located.  The  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  this  stream  is 
shallow,  but  safe  and  commodious.  Port  Hope  is  a  pretty 
town  ;  on  the  western  side  the  hills  rise  gradually  one  above 
the  other.  The  highest  summit,  called  "  Fort  Orton,"  af- 
fords a  fine  prospect,  and  overlooks  the  country  for  a  great 
distance.  The  village  is  incorporated ;  population  about 
5,114.  A  direct  route  to  Rochester  by  the  Steamer  Norse- 
man leaves  this  port  every  morning,  except  on  Sunday,  call- 
ing at  Port  Hope  and  connecting  with  Grand  Trunk  train 
from  Toronto  every  week  day  morning  and  arriving  in 
Rochester  the  same  afternoon.  The  Grand  Excursions  of 
the  Norseman  from  Rochester  to  Alexandria  Bay  leaving 
Rochester  eveiy  Saturday  evening  and  passing  through  the 
1,000  Island  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  arriving  at 
Alexandria  Bay  in  time  for  dinner,  giving  the  passengers 
about  five  hours  at  the  Bay  and  returning  to  Rochester 
early  on  Monday.  I  have  advised  many  of  my  friends  to 
make  this  trip,  all  of  which  have  expressed  themselves  as 
delighted. 


.ts= 


20 


li 


U 


COBOURG, 

seven  miles  btlow  Port  Hoi)e,  contains  6,000  inhabitanti. 
It  has  seven  churches,  two  banks,  three  grist  mills,  two 
founderies,  and  the  largest  cloth  factory  in  the  Province. 
It  is  also  the  seat  of  Victoria  College  and  Theologi-al 
Institute.  Midway  between  Port  Hope  and  Cobourg  is 
"  Duck  Island,"  on  which  a  light  house  is  maintained  by 
the  government. 

FOR  THE  BENEFIT  OF  ALL, 

we  submit  the  following  time-table— not  forgetting  to  men- 
tion that  steamboats  are  not  infallible,  but  are  governed  by 
man,  accompanied  by  steam,  wind  and  water.  If  the  boat 
is  one  hour  late  in  starting  from  any  given  point,  it  is  likely 
she  will  remain  so,  as  I  know  of  but  one  boat  in  the  line 
that  can  beat  or  surpass  schedule  time. 


LEAVING   EVERY    DAY— SUNDAYS   EXCEPTED. 


Toronto  (Sunday  Ex- 
cepted)   2:00  P.  M. 

Kingston    (  Monday 

Excepted) 5:00  A.  M. 

a»yton 6:00      " 

Alexandria  Bay 7:00      " 

Brockville 9:30      " 

Piwcott 10:30      " 

Galop  Rapids 11:05      " 

Iroquois 11:36      « 

Narrowest  Point 11:45      " 


Morrisburg. 12.06 

CTirysler's  Farm 12:17 

AultBville 12:30 

Farren's  Point 12:40 

Dickenmn's  Landing...  12:66 

LongSault 1:00 

Last  of  U.  8.  shore 1:15 

Cornwall  1:30 

Coteau  Landing 4:00 

Cedar  Rapid 4:30 

Indian  Pil<it 6K)0 

Montreal 7:00 


p.  M. 


Rapid  Piatt 11:66      ' 

We  assume  that  we  are  now  fairly  entering  on  the 
jestic  stream  on  the  Canadian  side. 


ma- 


i 


nhabitanti. 
mills,  two 
Province, 
rheologijal 
Jobourg  is 
Intaiiied  by 


ng  to  men- 
jverned  by 
If  the  boat 
,  it  is  likely 
in  the  line 


ED. 


..12.06 

p.  M 

...12:17 

H 

...12:30 

it 

...12:40 

f 

...12:56 

(( 

...  1:00 

« 

...  1:15 

li 

...  1:30 

<l 

...  4:00 

U 

...  4:30 

II 

...  6K)0 

11 

...  7:00 

II 

on  the 

ma 

tl 


THE  CITY  OF  KINGSTON, 

which  has  a  population  of  15,000,  was  founded  in  1672,  by 
Governor  DeCourcelles,  receiving  the  name  of  Fort  ^^tu- 
raqui.  Later,  a  massive  stone  fort  was  built  by  L  junt  De 
Frontenac,  and  received  his  name.  In  1762  the  place  was 
taken  by  the  British,  who  gave  it  its  present  name.  As  a 
place  of  defense  it  stands  next  in  strength  to  Quebec.  The 
batteries  of  Fort  Henry  are  calculated  for  the  reception  of 
numerous  cannon  and  mortars  of  the  largest  calibre.  These, 
together  with  neighboring  martello  towers,  form  a  formida- 
ble defense  against  any  agressive  movement  which  might 
be  directed  against  the  city.  These  fortifications  are  seen 
to  excellent  advantage  from  the  steamer  soon  after  it  leaves 
the  dock. 

On  the  right  is  Garden  Island ;  on  the  left,  Cedar  Island, 
and  behind  is  Fort  Henry.  There  is  here,  also,  in  view, 
the  round  stone  towers  referred  to  above.  Near  the 
middle  of  the  river  is  Wolf  or  Long  Island,  2 1  miles  long, 
and  7  miles  wide  near  the  Western  end.  There  is  nothing 
either  of  romance  or  historical  episode  to  weave  into  our 
story,  concerning  the  inhabitants  of  this,  the  largest  of  the 
Thousand  Island  group.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  territory 
is  a  portion  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  that  the  habits 
of  civilized  life  characterize  the  people.  Between  one 
channel  and  the  main  land  there  is  St.  John's  or  Howe  Is- 
land, of  no  mean  proportions. 

Ordinarily,  we  have  now  spent  about  one  hour  on  the 
steamer  from  Kingston,  and  come  to  the  point  in  the  chan- 
nel where  we  must  divei^e  either  for  Ganoque,  or  Clayton. 


tmm 


92 

We  are  bound  for  the  former.  If  the  boat  takes  the  Amer- 
ican channel,  (for  description  turn  to  Route  B  page  29). 
As  soon  as  the  light-house  on  Burnt  Island  comes  in  view, 
we  may  be  said  to  have  fairly  entered  upon  the  real  beauty 
of  the  "sacred  river  of  America."  In  steering  for  Gananoque 
we  pass  many  pretty  little  isles  of  six  or  eight  acres.  On 
the  right  is  a  range  light,  the  boat,  of  course,  passing  be- 
tween the  two.  It  is  said  that  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer, 
one  hundred  islands  can  be  counted — in  fact,  the  panorama 
is  probably  matchless  on  the  globe.  V»'hile  the  islands  are  ^ 
so  numerous  both  on  the  right  and  left,  the  boat  glides  by 
in  its  efforts  to  reach  Gananoque  without  allowing  the  tour- 
ist to  be  distracted  in  the  rapture  of  delight  that  is  feasting 
his  eyes.  Some  of  the- e  isles  are  scarcely  more  than  barren 
rocks,  wlule  others  are  paradises  of  verdure. 

"DO  YOU  GO  OUT  FISHING?" 


•.  «-i 


Well  not  often,  yon  see  this  ponderous  body  of  mine  does 
not  fit  the  average  fishing  boat.  My  fears  are  not  all  bound 
up  ill  that  one  fact,  nor  in  the  satisfaction  that  if  the  boat 
should  upset  that  I  would  not  sink,  but  the  fear  that  is  in- 
dellibly  printed  upon  my  mind,  that  as  I  would  float,  and 
being  so  large,  some  steamboat  captain  or  pilot  would 
take  me  tor  an  island,  lay  alongside  and  let  the  passengers 
off  for  a  little  pic-nic  or  an  hours  pleasure.    Think  of  it. 


♦•NOT  A  GEORGE  WASH." 


He  had  told  several  very  improbable  stories  bordering 
upon  the  Eli  Perkins  order  and  then  remarked  to  a  friend 


:akes  the  Amor- 
ite  B  page  29). 
comes  in  view, 
the  real  beauty 
I  for  Gananoque 
light  acres.  On 
rse,  passing  be- 
k  of  the  steamer, 
:t,  the  panorama 
e  the  islands  are  ^ 
e  boat  glides  by 
llowing  the  tour- 
it  that  is  feasting 
nore  than  barren 


ING?" 

)dy  of  mine  does 
are  not  all  bound 
1  that  if  the  boat 
he  fear  that  is  in- 
would  float,  and 
I  or  pilot  would 
let  the  passengers 
Think  of  it. 

SH." 

stories  bordering 
larked  to  a  friend 


that  he  could  not  tell  a  lie.  But  the  friend  replied,  that  he 
could  the  moment  he  heard  it,  and  to  the  best  of  his  judg- 
ment he  had  told  several. 

Names  of  Islands  that  are  numbered  on  the  Phat  Boy's 
Map  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  because  the  space  would  not 
permit  printing  the  names  in  full : 


53.  Robinson, 

54.  Calumet, 
56.  Seven, 
57-  Pratt, 

58.  Wau  Winnet, 

59.  Cuba, 

60  Devil's  Oven, 

61.  Cherry, 

64  Southgate,  R.  H., 

62.  Pullman, 

63.  Nobby, 

64.  Welcome, 

65.  Friendly, 

66.  Florence, 

67.  Linlith  Gow,  late  Maud, 

68.  Imperial, 

70.  Resort, 

71.  Deshler, 

72.  Kipp, 

73.  Terry, 

75.  Judge  Donahue, 

79.  Proctor, 


80.  Pike, 

81.  Idlewild, 

82.  Little  Lehigh, 

83.  Sport, 

^'  y  Summer  Land  Group, 

86.  Arcada, 

88.  Schooner, 

94.  Snake. 

95.  Float, 

96.  Milk, 

97.  Sugar, 
100.  Wallace, 
102.  Deer, 

107.  Hoopers, 

108.  Shanter, 

109.  Rattle  Snake, 
III.  Round, 

1 1  a.  Poverty, 

114.  Hemlock, 

115.  Snipe, 

116.  Three  Brothers, 


f  i 


'  I 


% 
f 

I 

I 


»4 


J  "i 


I 


^l;i 


i: 


11; 


149. 

Sush, 

ISO- 

Coles and  Smith, 

'S  »• 

H.  A.  Fields, 

160. 

Melville, 

163. 

Dixon, 

164. 

McGraw, 

165. 

Sears, 

166. 

Benedict, 

167. 

Ruyci^ft, 

169. 

Deniston, 

117.  Half  Way, 

137.  Brush, 

139.  Flat, 

141.  Round  Top, 

142.  Indian  Chief, 

143.  Pine  Tree, 

144.  Middle, 

145-  Big. 

146.  Shoemakers, 

147.  Bill  Berry, 

148.  Raspberry, 


We  now  reach  busy  and  picturesque 

GANANOQUE, 

inhabited  by  about  three  thousand  people,  eighteen  miles 
East  of  Kingston,  nearly  the  center  of  the  Thousand  Is- 
lands. It  maybe  M  to  state  here  that  authorities  (?)  dif- 
fer as  to  how  many  islands  there  really  are.  Some  say  fif- 
teen hundred ;  some  eighteen  hundred,  and  others  carefully 
write,  nearly  two  thousand.  Life  is  too  short  for  us  to  stop 
and  count  these  natural  beauties,  and  even  the  pilots  have 
no  desire  to  earn  fame  as  statisticans  by  asserting  the  cor- 
rect number.  The  *'  Phat  Boy  "  has  just  issued  the  only 
correct  map  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  published,  which 
will  not  be  misleading  to'  the  student  of  minute  details. 
But  we  digress. 

We  are  still  at  Gananoque.  It  is  comparatively  easy  to 
get  away,  for  steamers  ply  along  this  Canada  shore,  keeping 
well  north  of  the  many  islands,  till  they  get  to  Brockville. 
We  soon  pass  a  light  on  the  left  called  Jack  Straw,  and  on 


•V    \> 


ifX 


n, 


iteen  miles 
3usaud  Is- 
ties  (?)  dif- 
ime  say  iif- 
rs  carefully 
us  to  stop 
pilots  have 
Qg  the  cor- 
1  the  only 
led,  which 
ite  details. 

;ly  easy  to 
re,  keeping 
Brockville. 
ivr,  and  on 


■\    l 


the  right  observe  a  beacon  and  pier.  Further  along, 
another  light  comes  in  view.  The  next  attractive  spot  is 
called  by  the  quaint  name  of  Fiddler's  Elbow.  The  tradi- 
tions connected  with  such  names  are  sometimes  thrilling 
and  sometimes  insipid ;  but  whether  the  one  or  the  other,^ 
they  will  continue  to  stick,  but  if  they  serve  to  indellibly  im- 
press upon  our  memory  some  pleasing  reminiscence  of  a 
"  thing  of  beauty,"  these  names  will  not  be  by  any  means 
evanescent  in  their  influence.  As  we  frequently  say,  the 
elbow  is  still  here,  but  the  Addler  is,  I  guess,  over  at  the 
camp  meeting  on  Well's  Island.  He  is  probably  first  cous- 
in of  "  The  Arkansas  Traveler." 

But  here  we  are  in  a  tortuous  channel, 

AMONG  THE  ISLANDS. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  hundreds  of  islands 
are  all  occupied  and  have  cottages  on  them,  or  laid  out 
with  walks  an(J  fountains.  For  every  island  that  has  a 
house  on  it  there  are  perhaps  twenty  that  have  none.  The 
number  of  houses  are  increasing  every  year,  and  I  think 
that  in  time  nearly  every  island  will  be  occupied  in  the  Ca- 
nadian channel  as  they  are  in  the  American. 

On  the  left  is  Darling's  dock,  the  famous  wood  station. 
We  have,  as  yet,  never  seen  the  "  Darling,"  although  the 
dock  is  always  visible.  It  may  be  she  is  busy  in  the  pantry- 
washing  dishes. 

Two  miles  and  a  half  below  is 

ROCKPORT. 


This  name  would  seem  to  have  been  given  the  place  on 
account  of  its  rocky  formation.     It  is  avowed  here  that 


L-. 


a6 

there  are  only  two  seasons ;  the  rocky  season  and  the  icy 
season.  Most  of  the  visitors  come  here  in  the  "  rocky  sea- 
son." Directly  opposite  on  the  right,  the  Park  House  on 
Westminister  park  is  visible ;  also  the  fine  chapel  on  Mt. 
Ceulah,  its  tower  being  136  feei  high.  On  the  left  is  Gre- 
nadier Island  Light-house. 

From  the  deck  of  our  steamer,  looking  to  the  right,  we 
now  have  one  of  the  most  charming  views  6n  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Alexandria  Bay  is  before  us,  and  the  famous  Thous- 
and Island  House  and  Crossmon  House  can  be  seen  on 
yonder  shore.  Within  the  range  of  our  vision  are  also  the 
islands  transformed  by  wealth,  taste  and  art  into  the  loveH- 
«st  of  Summer  resorts  by  their  owners,  namely :  Fairyland 
<twenty  acres),  C.  H.  &  W.  B.  Hayden,  Columbus,  Ohio ; 
Idlewild  (four  acres),  K.  A.  Packer,  Sayre,  Pa. ;  and  Sport 
(four  acres),  H.  A.  Packer,  Mauch  Chunk,  Pa.,  who  died  in 
1884.     Occupied  this  season  by  H,  C.  Wilbur  and  friends. 

The  scene  at  night  on  ihcsc  islands  is  enchanting  almost 
beyond  desdiption.  An  approved  gas  machine  supplies 
the  illumination  for  hundreds  of  colored  lamps  suspender 
in  graceful  design  on  Sport  Island,  which  is  connected  with 
the  other  Packer  island  by  a  wire  suspension  bridge. 

In  the  distance,  one  mile,  still  looking  to  the  right,  is  the 
famous  Whiskey  Island.  A  pilot  of  the  Canadian  line  got 
drunk  at  his  post  end  fell  into  an  oblivious  condition  j  the 
steamboat,  under  full  headway,  struck  the  island,  and  the 
name  was  given  in  commemoration  of  that  event.  Next, 
to  the  right,  is  a  stone  edifice  called  the  Three  Sisters  light. 

They  were  formerly  "old  maids,"  but  are  now  joined  to- 
gether by  a  stone  wall,  consequently  old  maids  no  longer. 


i 

"-S 

*  I 


MkrniWM 


w> 


the  icy 

ocky  sea- 

ouse  on 

I  on  Mt. 

"t  is  Gre- 

right,  we 
St.  Law- 
is  Thous- 
;  seen  on 
also  the 
he  loveli- 
Fairyland 
as,  Ohio; 
ind  Sport 
10  died  in 
d  friends. 

ig  almost 
:  supplies 
uspendc^". 
cted  with 

;ht,  is  the 
\  line  got 
tion;  the 
and  the 
t.  Next, 
ters  light. 

oin?d  to- 
0  longer. 


r'     t    ^ 


.i        » 


The  next  in  order  is  Cross-over  light.  At  this  point  in  the 
liver  Ihe  steamer  crosses  to  the  American  channel,  and  in 
(>.  very  short  time  is  discovered  to  be  making  for  the  Cana- 
dian channel  again  to  reach  Brockville.  Before  the  tourist 
gets  there,  however,  he  will  observe  numerous  Islands ;  the 
most  noted  are  B?thhurst,  Tecumseh,  Star,  McDonald  and 
Hill  Crest.  On  the  left,  on  the  muin  Canadian  shore,  com- 
modicus  and  elegant  villas  are  in  view;  also  St.  Lawrence 
Park,  picnic  and  pleasure  grounds  of  Brockville  and  vicin- 
ity. All  Summer  long,  the  scene  is  animated  and  captivat- 
ing. The  whistle  announces  in  its  shrill  way  that  we  are 
cow  at 

BROCKVILLE, 

which  was  named  in  honor  of  General  Brock,  who  fell  in 
Queenston  Heights,  in  the  war  of  i8ia.  It  is  situated  on 
the  Canadian  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  one  of  the 
pleasantest  villages  in  the  Province.  It  is  right  at  the  foot 
of  the  Thousand  Islands,  on  an  elevation  of  land,  which 
rises  from  the  rivei  in  a  succession  of  ridges.  The  town 
was  laid  out  in  1803,  and  is  now  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.     The  present  population  is  about  6,500. 

After  leaving  the  wharf,  the  boat  passes  the  most  beauti- 
ful cliff  on  the  river,  the  palisades  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on 
-which  are  erected  magnificent  mansions  and  suburban  villas 
of  Canada's  distinguished  sons.  The  most  prominent  of 
these  is  the  son  of  Sir  Hugh  Allan,  whose  residence  is  in- 
<ieed  superb.  The  sight-seer  observes  the  winding  stairs, 
boat  and  bath  houses,  and  other  appointments  of  recrea- 
tion. 

Having  already  inrimated  that  there  are  other  routes 


i  i1 


gSSJS 


MM 


t8 

which  lead  to  the  point  in  the  river  which  we  have  n  jw 
reached,  we  return  westward  to  bring  another  party  through 
the  American  channel. 

YOU    KNOW    HER. 

She  is  one  of  the  strong  minded  of  the  female  sex  and 
generally  has  her  own  way  in  everything.  At  any  rate  she 
stands  ready  at  any  and  all  times  to  combat  with  any  one 
of  the  lords  of  creation,  or  otherwise,  who  may  dispute  her 
sway.  We  prefer  your  imagination  to  fill  in  as  a  descrip- 
tion because  it  would  be  next  to  an  impossibility  for  me  to. 
She  has  all  the  requisites:  the  thin,  tall  figure,  the  hatchet 
face,  sharp  nose,  wears  glasses,  and  always  carries  an  um- 
brella. About  one  each  day  will  pass  down  this  route  in 
Summer,  except  when  an  Eastern  or  Western  Excursion 
comes,  then  it  will  be  hard  to  select  those  who  are  not  of 
her  kind.  The  first  object  that  strikes  the  eye  is  our  manly 
figure.  After  looking  it  will  over,  she  remembers  that  fat 
people  are  proverbly  jolly  and  good  natured,  so  she  breaks 
into  conversation,  and  about  the  first  question  she  asks,  is: 
"  Were  you  always  as  large  as  you  are  now  ?"  "  Oh !  Yes. 
I  was  bom  this  size."  The  answer  causes  her  to  discover 
she  has  left  out  the  word  "proportion."  So  she  apologizes^ 
smiles  for  the  first  time,  and  we  are  friends  for  the  trip. 


*  I 


^ 


^^ 


have  n  jw 
ty  through 


le  sex  and 
ny  rate  she 
h  any  one 
lispute  her 
5  a  descrip- 
r  for  me  to. 
the  hatchet 
ies  an  um- 
is  route  in 
Excursion 
arc  not  of 
s  our  manly 
ers  that  fat 
she  breaks 
he  asks,  is: 
"Oh!  Yes. 
to  discover 
apologizes^ 
lie  trip. 


Route  *  B/ 


The  boats  of  the  R.  &  O.  N.  Co.  Royal  Mail  line  leave 
Kingston  at  five  o'clock  a.  m.,  except  on  Monday,  for  Al- 
exandria Bay  and  Montreal. 

For  the  first  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  there  is  nothing 
especially  worthy  of  note.  Then  we  strike  the  cross  over 
channel.  Now,  the  time  is  early  morning,  the  sun  is  quite 
bright,  and  the  atmosphere  is  remarkably  clear.  The  scene 
is  now  attractive.  Look  ahead  in  the  distance  a  little  to 
the  left,  and  you  will  behold  the  eagle  tree.  Hundreds 
have  been  deceived  with  the  idea  that  it  was  an  actual  live 
eagle,  spreading  its  wings  and  soaring  aloft  to  a  height  that 
the  imagination  can  scarcely  reach.  It  is  a  delusion }  'tis 
nothing  but  a  tree,  as  its  true  features,  or  rather  beautiful 
foliage,  has  deceived  the  eye  of  the  novice  of  this  region. 

On  the  left  is  Grindstone  Island.  On  it  is  an  organized 
community.  The  inhabitants  are  farmers,  and  for  the  edu- 
cation of  whose  children  a  school  is  maintained. 

CLAYTON 

is  in  the  American  channel.  In  the  distant  front,  just  be- 
fore landing,  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of  Prospect  park 
and  hill,  a  delightful  spot  for  recreation  and  pleasure.  No 
better  view  can  be  had  of  the  islands  and  surrounding 


mmm 


i  '!| 


■:H 


country  than  from  the  eminence  of  the  hilL  Clayton  is  our 
first  stopping  place.  It  is  a  village  that  derives  its  impor- 
tance to  tourists  a&  being  the  terminus  of  the  ,Utica  and 
Black  River  Railroad,  and  here  it  is  where  passengers  from 
the  East  generally  get  their  first  glimpse  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. There  are  three  good  hotels,  the  Hubbard,  Walton 
and  The  West  End  Hotels,  kept  by  as  genial  landlords  as 
ever  lived,  and  from  the  town  many  fishing  parties  go  out 
dail).  The  steamer  J.  F.  Maynard  runs  from  this  port  in 
connection  with  the  above  named  railroad  for  Alexandria 
Bay  and  other  landing  places  en  route.  Op)X)site  Cla}rton^ 
on  the  left  as  we  proceed  down  the  river,  is  Goverror  Island, 
owned  by  Hon.  Thomas  G.  Alvord,  of  Syracuse.  Next  to 
Gov,  Alvord's  Isle  on  left  is  Calumet,  five  acres,  owned  by 
Chas.  E.  Emery,  of  Old  Judge  cigarette  and  tobacco  fame, 
who  has  lavishly  expended  a  large  amount  of  money  for 
comfort.  His  villa  and  apartments  are  quite  striking. 
Last  season  he  purchased  the  steam  yacht  Lancet  said  to  be 
the  fastest  yacht  on  the  river.  The  next  island  on  the  left, 
about  200  yards  distant,  is  Powder  Horn.  The  origin  of 
this  "  euphonious"  name  has  not  been  handed  down  by  tra- 
dition. On  the  right  is  Washington  Island ;  on  the  left, 
nearly  opposite,  is  Bluff  Island,  and  behind  which  is  Robin's 
Island.     Next,  on  the  right,  over  two  miles  from  Clayton,  is 


I 


ROUND    ISLAND 


'■% ' 


t 


■and  park.  This  is  the  property  of  the  Baptist  Association, 
and  every  year  people  of  this  persuasion  in  large  numbers 
gather  ibi-  .'vlijnous  worship  and  recreation.  There  is  a. 
temperance  hotel,  fitte-d  with  the  modem  appointments,  for 
the  accommodation  of  3^00  guests,  named  the  Round  Island 


mtnttk 


lyton  is  our 
I  its  impor- 
^tica  and 
;ngers  from 
lie  St.  Law- 
urd,  Walton 
andlords  as 
rties  go  out 
this  port  in 

Alexandria 
ite  Clayton, 
;rT>or  Island, 
e.     Next  to 
8,  owned  by 
bacco  fame, 
f  money  for 
ite   striking, 
cet  said  to  be 
i  on  the  left, 
'he  origin  of 
down  by  tra- 

OQ  the  left» 
ich  is  Robin's 
im  Clayton,  is 


t  Association, 
arge  numbers 
,  There  is  a 
ointments,  for 
Round  Island 


3' 

House.  The  docks  are  in  excellent  condition,  and  the  fish- 
ing boats  are  favorites.  On  the  left  is  Little  Round  Island 
and  "  Hog's  Back."  We  have  now  several  cotti^es  in  view  ; 
the  one  painted  dark  brown  is  owned  by  Mr.  Harbodle. 
On  the  point  is  Ethelridge  cottage,  and  many  others  not 
known  to  me,  as  they  spring  up  as  quickly  as  mushrooms 
do  in  an  open  field. 

Leaving  Round  Island,  and  looking  in  the  distant  front, 
we  have  a  view  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park.  About  one 
ra'le  from  Round  Island  on  the  right  is  Watch  Island  or 
"Indolence,"  owned  by  S.  T.  Skinner.  On  the  left  are 
Bluff,  Maple  and  Hemlock,  the  three  pretty  islands  fronting 
the  foot  of  Grindstone  Island.  On  Hemlock  is  the  Cliff 
House,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison,  of  Syracuse.  About  five 
minutes  after  leaving  Round  Island,  we  come  in  sight  of 
Hub  Island  an '  House,  burned  in  March,  1884,  which  lie 
on  the  left ;  Grinnell's  Island  and  House ;  Otsego  Camp  is 
also  on  the  left.  On  the  right  is  Fisher's  landing,  Robinson's 
island,  owned  by  Eugene  Robinson,  Ne"-  York  banker  and 
broker  (he  broke  Drew),  Johnson's  light,  Washburn  Island 
and  Frederick  Island.  Mr.  Johnson,  the  original  light-house 
keeper,  and  after  whom  the  island  is  named,  was  the  man 
who  burned  the  Robert  Peel,  the  English  vessel,  in  retalia- 
tion for  sending  the  Carolina  over  Niagara  Falls. 

Just  before  landing  at  Thousand  Island  Park,  upper  end 
of  Well's  Island,  now  called  Wellesley  Island,  is  Twin  Island,, 
owned  by  J.  L.  Huntington.  On  the  left,  and  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  is  the  bath  house,  in 
a  delapidated  condition,  where  the  Methodists  can  get  bap- 
tism, a  la  Bob  IngersoU,  with  soap.  Said  to  be  good  for 
this  world,  if  not  hereafter.     We  now  land  at 


;  .;i: 


Ml- 


THOUSAND    ISLAND    PARK. 

The  boat  stops  at  the  western  end  of  Wells  Island,  at  a 
fine  wharf,  and  close  to  a  large  number  of  handsome  cot- 
tages. You  can  tell  what  the  place  is  the  moment  you  ap- 
proach it.  There  is  no  mistaking  a  Methodist  Summer 
camp,  find  it  where  you  will.  It  is  always  neat  and  clean 
and  orderly.  This  is  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  a  Metho- 
dist resort,  opened  in  1873.  Although  the  scenery  is  some- 
what marred  by  the  great  number  of  solemn-faced  clergy- 
men strolling  about  the  grounds,  it  is  still  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spo'i  to  be  found  among  the  islands.  Camp- 
meetings  are  held  here;  also  Sunday-school  and  temperance 
and  educational  conventions,  and  other  meetings  all  through 
the  summer.  A  large  and  spacious  hotel  completed,  was 
opened  July  loth,  1883.  The  name  was  originally  Thous- 
and Island  Camp  Ground,  but  was  changed  in  1878  to  its 
present  name. 

Again  on  our  way,  the  first  house  on  the  left  is  owned  by 
Harlow  J.  Remington,  Ilion,  whose  fame  and  fortune  is  in 
rifles.  Next  on  the  left  Wellesley  House  and  beautiful 
cottage.  On  the  right,  handsome  villas  line  the  shore  of 
the  island.  About  half  a  mil^  from  Wellesley  House  is 
Jolly  Oak  point,  with  its  four  cottages,  two  owned  by  the 
Norton  brothers,  a  third  by  Dr.  Ferguson,  and  the  fourth 
by  Hon.  W.  W.  Butterfield,  of  Redwood.  From  here  to 
Lookout  point  is  about  half  a  mile ;  and  next  is  Rood's 
place,  with  a  fine  dock  and  good  accommodations  for  tour- 
ists. About  two  hundred  yards  below  is  Peel's  dock  where 
the  boat  Robert  Peel  was  burned  in  1837.  This  dock  was 
rebuilt  in  1884.  Robin's  cottage,  100  feet  to  the  left ;  a 
little  below  on  the  right  is  che  farm  of  Captain  Jack ;  you 


d 


iJi^mSmHiLAMt  Al^MM3,ii£M£Sia.'.^'  &.:Mif1iki: 


. .  .* ,  ir-.M-  ''.'jf  "^iPit^'K  * 


•llTi 


K. 

Island,  at  a 
idsome  cot- 
lent  you  ap- 
ist  Summer 
it  and  clean 
k,  a  Metho- 
lery  is  some- 
aced  clergy- 
of  the  most 
ids.     Camp- 
temperance 
;s  all  through 
mpleted,  was 
nally  Thous- 
1  1878  to  its 

;  is  owned  by 
fortune  is  in 
tnd  beautiful 
the  shore  of 
ley  House  is 
iwned  by  the 
id  the  fourth 
From  here  to 
•xt  is  Rood's 
ions  for  tour- 
's dock  where 
rhis  dock  was 
to  the  left;  a 
in  Jack;  you 


33 

can  see  the  old  saw-mill  in  a  dilapidated  condition  on  the 
bank.  Opposite  on  the  left  is  the  celebrated  Limburger 
cheese  factory.  (Post  mortem  examinations  held  here  week- 
ly). (This  "goak"  would  take  better  if  you  was  just  intro- 
duced to  Limburger  for  the  first  time)  On  the  right  is 
Collins'  dock ;  below  a  few  feet  is  Calumet  Island,  and 
cottage,  owned  by  Rev.  Henry  c;.  Waite,  of  Ilion,  N.  Y. 
On  the  right  lies  the  remains  of  old  Captain  Jack's  boat,  gone 
to  rest.  »  •  •  Here  you  are  expected  to  drop  a  tear. 
Brown's  Bay  on  the  left  and  Swan  Bay  on  the  right.  The 
next  island  on  the  right  is  owned  by  Mr.  MoflFet,  of  Water- 
town,  N.  Y.  Passing  the  bays,  we  come  en  the  right  to 
Central  Park,  formerly  Grinnell's  Point  and  parade  ground, 
purchased  by  parties  and  laid  out  for  a  park.  Several  large 
and  beautiful  cottages  were  built  last  season  and  many  con- 
templated for  this  season.  Foot  of  Central  Park  is  Page 
point,  a  former  wood  station  for  the  N.  T.  Co.'s  line  of 
steamers.     On  the  right  is 

POINT  VIVIAN. 

Point  Vivian  is  situated  on  the  main  =-.hore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  about  2^  miles  from  Alexandria  Bay.  It 
was  formerly  owned  by  Capt.  W.  H.  Houghton,  and  was 
purchased  by  Messrs.  Geo.  Ivers,  John  J.  Kinney,  Isaac  A. 
Wood,  Dr.  L.  E.  Jones,  R.  Barnes,  Rezot  Tozer  and  E. 
Hungerford,  in  the  fall  of  1877  (all  of  Evans  Mills,  N.  Y.) 
They  had  it  surveyed  into  40  building  lots,  with  parks 
avenues  and  streets.  A  magnificent  dock  was  built  300 
feet  long,  and  any  boat  from  a  skiff  to  an  ocean  steamer 
can  .land  here. 


m 


34 


ih 


Point  Vivian  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  resorts  on  the 
river ;  here,  every  one  throws  off  all  business  cares,  sitting 
under  the  wide  spreading  branches  of  the  fragrant  Pine, 
watching  sail  and  steam  crafts  passing  up  or  down  this 
beautiful  Queen  of  rivers.  It  is  situated  in  what  is  known 
as  the  narrows  and  is  noted  for  its  fine  fishing  grounds. 
The  boss  fisherman  on  the  point  is  Tozer,  he  appears  tc 
have  a  charm  (we  don't  know  where)  but  we  know  he  has 
one,  and  when  he  launches  his  basque,  the  fish  swarm 
around  and  just  ask  to  be  "tuk  in, '  and  are  always  took. 

The  following  named  persons  together  with  the  original 
purchasers  have  built  cottages  here : 

R.  Rodenhurst,  Theresa,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Chadwick,  Theresa,  N.  Y. 

C.  Allen,  Theresa,  N.  Y. 

Sidney  Cooper,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 

C.  Young,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

L.  Sharon  Sterlingville,  N.  Y.  ^      .  /. , 

Mr.  Aldrich,  Sterlingville,  N.  Y.       ^^       ' 

M.  Horton,  Waterto^rn,  N.  Y.  ",    j, 

Taylor,  Watertown,  N.  Y.         ,,    .  ,     /,    ,>  ^ 

W.  S.  Cooper,  Evans  Mills.  ,  ,  ( , 

E.  O.  Hungerford,  Evans  Mills.  ^^^ 

A.  M.  Cook,  Evans  Mills.   ,4  ..,  ,      «-,,», 

C.  Briant,  Evans  Mills. 

E.  Hungerford,  Evans  Mills. 

Whitney  &  Kinn;/,  Gouverneur. 

L.  Smith,  Gouvcineur. 

Several  gentlemen  from  Watertown  have  purchased  a 
number  of  lots  adjoining  and  have  been  incorporated  with 


,A.'- 


<> 


■mi%r>  <*^- 


sorts  on  the 
cares,  sitting 
agrant  Pine, 
JT  down  this 
hat  is  known 
ling  grounds, 
e  appears  tc 
enow  he  has 
fish  swarm 
ways  took. 

the  original 


jurchased  a 
(orated  with 


35 

the  point.  The  management  intends  to  add  some  valuable 
improvements  tlie  coming  season,  grading  the  streets  and 
avenues,  building  a  large  ice  house,  putting  up  wind  mill, 
&c.  There  are  a  few  more  desirable  lots  for  sale  on  this 
point,  those  contemplating  building  on  the  river  would  do 
well  to  visit  this  famous  resort.    Connected  with  this  point  is 

. :    l^  LONG  POINT, 

jwned  by  Mr.  Curtis  of  Cleveland,  Ohio,  he  has  erected  » 
nice  cottage  thereon  where  he  spends  his  summer.  Curtis 
is  a  "  prince  of  good  fellows"  and  the  pointers  reckon  on 
him  as  one  of  'em.  i  j.h< 'v 

The  officers  are : 

W.  S.  Cooper,  President. 

Sidney  Cooper,  R.  Rodenhurst,  John  J.  Kinney,  Trus- 
tees. 

W.  M.  Comstock,  Secretary.  v:  -^  ^'^    f  , 

Opposite  Point  Vivian  on  the  left  is  Island  Royal,  owned 
by  Royal  E.  Dean,  of  New  York,  firm  of  Bramall,  Dean  & 
Co.  Mr.  Dean  is  a  very  enthusiastic  lover  of  the  scenery 
as  well  as  the  hunting  and  fishing  in  this  vicinity,  coming  co 
this,  his  summer  home,  quite  early  in  the  spring,  and  often 
remaining  until  winter  fairly  sets  in,  for  no  where  else  can 
he  get  such  a  variety  of  fish  and  game  and  have  the  sur- 
roundings so  agreeable. 

After  leaving  Point  Vivian,  on  the  right,  is  Curtis  Point 
and  cottage.  The  next  is  Alleghaney  Point,  owned  by  J. 
S.  Laney,  of  Pittsburg,  Pa.  The  fence  was  built  to  keep 
the  children  from  falling  into  the  river.  Next  on  the  right 
is  Keppler  Point,  Beula  Vista  Lodge,  owned  by  F.  A.  Boa- 


W- 


36 

worth,  of  Milwaukee,  Wis.,  he  is  an  invalid,  and  has  not 
been  home  for  ten  years,  says  he  will  not  return  home  until 
he  can  walk.  I  am  pleased  to  say  he  told  a  friend  of  mine 
that  his  stay  of  three  months  here  was  of  more  benefit  to 
him  than  a  tour  through  Europe.  Centennial  Isle  is  owned 
by  Mr.  Sissons,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.  Comfort,  in  close 
proximity  is  owned  by  A.  S.  Clark,  of  the  Chicago  111.  Board 
of  Trade.  His  is  the  largest  and  finest  cottage  of  the 
grov-.p.  Beyon<l  is  Hills  island,  also,  Devil's  Rock  .and 
Oven.  This  gentleman  has  expended  a  large  amount  of 
money  in  building  a  stone  wall  around  the  same,  and  in 
many  ways  beautifying  the  surroundings.  On  the  left  is 
Winslow  Point  and  Seven  Isles.  Beyond  is  Louisiana  Point 
owned  by  Judge  La  Batte,  of  New  Orleans.  Next  on  the 
right  is  Warner's  Isle,  very  much  on  the  dilapidated  order. 
On  the  right  is  Cuba  Isle,  owned  by  W.  F.  Storey,  of  Buf- 
falo, N.  Y.,  and  is  occupied  by  Mr.  Easton  and  family,  of 
N.  Y  A  little  further  on  is  Cleveland  Point  and  Fdgewood 
Cottage  owned  by  G.  C.  Martin,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
Next  on  the  right  is  Cherry  Isle,  upon  which  are  erected 
several  cottages,  one  is  owned  by  Rev.  George  Rockwell, 
of  FuKt.i,  N.  Y.;  he  was  the  first  pastor  of  the  Reformed 
Church  of  Alexandria  Bay.  The  large  brown  cottage  is 
owned  jointly  by  A.  E.  Pullman,  and  G.  B.  Marsh,  of  Chi- 
cago.  111.  Opposite  on  the  left  is  Pullman,  Nobby,  Friendly, 
Rye,  Welcome,  Florence,  Imperial  and  Linlith  Gow.  This 
group  may  be  seen  in  the  order  given,  beyond  is  Westmin- 
ster Park,  Hart's  Island,  Fairy  Land  and  Dishler.  We  now 
shoot  into  Alexandria  Bay. 


■UniiMiMi 


mam 


■« 


7 


ilid,  and  has  not 

return  home  until 

1  a  friend  of  mine 

>f  more  benefit  to 

mial  Isle  is  owned 

Comfort,  in  close 

Chicago  III.  Board 

t  cottage  of  the 

)evirs   Rock  and 

t  large  amount  of 

the  same,  and  in 

On  the  left  is 

s  Louisiana  Point 

■ns.     Next  on  the 

dilapidated  order. 

F.  Storey,  of  Buf- 

»n  and  family,  of, 

intand  Fdgewood 

''atertown,   N,   Y. 

hich  are  erected 

Jeorge  Rockwell, 

of  the  Reformed 

brown  cottage  is 

I.  Marsh,  of  Chi- 

Nobby,  Friendly, 

ilith  Gow.     This 

fond  is  Westiiiin- 

ishler.     We  now 


,, 1 


Situated  on  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  at  Alexandria  Bay,  Jefferson 
County,  New  York,  and  iti  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  far-famed 

THOUSAND   ISLANDS, 

The  very  Mecca  of  Pleasure-Seekers.    The  Centre  of  Gravity, 
pivot  upon  which  revolves  everything- 

This  House  contains  all  the  modern  impruvements,  with  elevator. 
Rooms  single  or  en  suite,  with  bath  rooms  and  closets  attached,  und 
everything  that  can  add  to  the  comfort  or  convenience  of  (he  guests. 

Travelers  will  tind  this  place  as  healthful  as  it  is  beautiful,  with  no 
mosquitoes  or  chills  and  fever,  while  to  the  finest  scenery  in  the  world 
are  added  to  the  attractiou.s  of 

BOATING,  FISHING,  HUNTING  AND  BATHING, 

AS  WELL  AS 

BILLARD8,  BOWLING  ALLEY,  CROQUET  (/ROUNDS,  Etc. 

Parties  taking  rooms  for  the  season  will  find  liberal  deductions 
from  regular  rates.     Send  for  pamphlet  with  terms,  et  . 

At  this  Hotel  was  held  the  Banquet  tendered  President  Arthur,  in 
October,  1882. 

R.  H.  SOUTHGATE,  Proprietor, 

Alexandria  Bay,  New  York. 

CHAS.  P.  CL.EMES,  Manager. 

Late  o(  Hnrray  HIU  Hotel,  N.  Y. 


3« 

ALEXANDRIA  BAY, 

which  is  three  or  four  miles  long,  and  one-and-a-half  miles 
wide,  reaching  from  the  shore,  on  the  American  side,  to 
"Wells  Island.  The  chief  feature  around  here  is  the  grand 
hotels — the  largest  known  as  the  Thousand  Island  House ; 
the  finest  building  on  the  St.  Lawrence  river.  From  the 
Bay  fishing  parties  are  constantly  going  out.  The  channels 
about  the  islands  are  the  Paradise  of  fishermen.  The  boats 
are  the  most  convenient  and  comfortable  in  the  world,  the 
boatmen  the  most  accommodating,  and  the  pickerel,  pike 
and  gamey  black  bass  and  rock  bass,  and  muscalonge,  in 
the  greatest  abundance. 


WHAT  AND  WHO  MADE  ALEXANDRIA 


A.,  p^ 


t  a.- 


BAY. 


'  In  1872,  President  Grant  visited  this  delightful  spot,  a 
guest  of  R.  M.  Pullman,  of  palace  car  fame,  Pullman 
Island.  There  was  at  that  time  inadequate  hotel  accom- 
modations, for  the  tourist  as  well  as  the  visitor  who  had 
been  drawn  to  this  the  most  beautiful  natural  scenery  in  the 
world.  Messrs.  Cornwall  and  Walton  of  Alexandria  Bay 
with  their  usual  display  of  sense  and  sagacity,  as  well  as 
business  tact  for  which  they  have  always  been  commended, 
offered  to  give  the  best  site  on  the  St.  Lawrence  to  any  man 
who  would  erect  upon  it,  a  first  class  summer  hotel.  Mr. 
O.  G.  Staples,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.,  hearing  of  this  offer 
came,  he  saw,  and  how  he  conquered  you  shall  know  as  we 
proceed  with  our  narratfve.  Well,  he  concluded  to  father 
the  scheme,  securing  a  man  with  money,  a  Mr.  Nott,  of 
Syracuse,  the  ground,  or  rock  rather,  was  broken  January 


:5l.» 


a-half  miles 
can  side,  to 
is  the  grand 
and  House ; 
From  the 
'he  channels 
The  boats 
e  world,  the 
ickorel,  pike 
scalonge,  in 


ANDRIA 


itful  spot,  a 
le,  Pullman 
otel  accom- 
or  who  had 
:enery  in  the 
:andria  Bay 

as  well  as 
ommended, 

to  any  man 
hotel.  Mr. 
•f  this  offer 
know  as  we 
sd  to  father 
r.  Nott,  of 
en  January 


39 

14th,  1873,  and  the  Thousand  Island  Hduse  was  completed 
and  opened  July  17th,  1873,  just  six  months  from  the  day 
of  starting.     Rumor  says  that  although  their  money  gave 
out  a  little  above  the  first  story  Staples'  indomitable  will  saw 
it  completed  and  furnished,  ready  to  receive  guests,  just  as 
soon  and  as  v/ell  as  if  he  had  been  a  millionare.     During 
the  next  two  years  of  the  partnership  of  Staples  and  Nott, 
everything  did  not  go  as  smoothly  as  a  marriage  bell,  but 
still  they  went,  and  in  the  end  Staples  had  the  money  and 
hotel.     (I  hope  the  reader  if  he  knows  Staples  will  not  be 
so  unkind  as  to  accuse  him  of  parting  with  all  his  experience 
and  make  the  pun  that  he  took  the  money  and  Nott  the 
experience.)     Staples  bought  out  Nott,  and  I  believe,  paid 
him  what  was  agreed,  and  he  run  the  hotel  until  April 
15th,  1883,  when  Mr.  R.  H.  Southgate,  (the  man  of  many 
hotels,  too  numerous  to  mention  here),  bought  him  out. 
The  many  changes  that  have  been  made,  and  those  con- 
templated, and  when  completed,  will  make  this  the  mecca 
of  summer  resort  watering  places,  the  Venice  of  America. 
I  desire  to  say  right  here  that  I  hope   Mr.  Southgate  will 
not  lose  sight  of  what  has  in  the  past  made  the  Bay  popular 
as  a  resort.     I  like  to  see  the  standard  of  visitor?  raised  as 
well  as  the  prices.     I  would  like  it  to  be  the  place  for  fish 
V   rell  as  those  who  love  the  piscatorial   art.     No  dust,  no 
''  !T,;:.aess,  no  malaria  or  hay  ''ever,  no  mosquitoes,  light,  dry 
k':-,  cool  and  bracing.     Thermometer  never  over  80  nor  be- 
1'  w  50  in  July  or  August,  and  one  can  enjoy  what  is  denied 
them  almost  everywhere  else,  a  good  nine  hours  of  cool  re- 
freshing sleep  under  a  blanket.     Those  troubled  with  pul- 
monary complaints  will  find  great  relief  here.     Steamers, 
steam  yachts  and  sailing  vessels  abound,  everything  to  ani- 


40 

mate  the  scene  and  inhance  the  pleasure  of  visitors  is  done. 
Fishing,  fishing  boats,  bathing,  etc,  as  well  as  fish  abounds, 
and  we  say  here,  if  you  have  never  been  to  the  Bay  conte, 
if  you  have  been,  come  and  see  it  under  the  new  reign  of 
success,  and  I  know  you  will  be  pleased.  The  season  of 
1885  the  Thousand  Island  House  will  be  under  the  man- 
agement of  Chas.  P.  Clemes,  who  for  the  past  seven  years 
has  been  connected  with  such  hotels  as  the  Rossin  House, 
Toronto,  Windsor,  Montreal,  Albermarle  and  Murray  Hill, 
N.  Y.,  which  ought  to  be  all  the  reference  required  to  as- 
sure guests  of  the  Thousand  Island  House  that  they  will  be 
well  taken  care  of. 

-.pi.  *&? 
VISITORS  AT  THE  1,000  ISLANDS, 

who  desire  to  visit  Montreal  and  return  by  boat  (their  time 
being  limited),  the  following  information  will  be  of  interest. 
AU  passengers  arrive  in  Montreal  between  six  and  seven 
o'clock,  p.  m.,  as  there  is  little  to  see  at  night  and  very  little 
time  to  see  it  in.  The  boat  leaves  her  dock,  Canal  Basin  to 
return,  every  morning  at  9  o'clock,  except  Sunday.  You  can 
remain  in  Montreal  until  the  iz  M.,  train  for  Lachine  from 
the  G.  T.  R.  Station,  (by  taking  that  train,  fare  35  cents,  you 
will  arrive  at  Lachine  in  time  to  take  the  boat  and  enjoy  yoiur 
dinner  while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Louis.)  Should  you 
desire  to  prolong  your  stay,  remain  in  Montreal  until  the  5 
p.  m.,  train  leaves  same  depot  for  Coteau  Landing.  A  car- 
riage in  waiting  will  take  you  to  the  boat,  fare  from  Mon- 
treal, including  carriage  $1.25.  You  will  take  passage 
from  there  at  seven  o'clock,  and  have  your  supper  on  board 
of  boat  while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Francis.  As  it 
takes  the  boat  sixteen  hours  longer  to  come  back,  than  to 


^ 


;ors  is  done, 
sh  abounds. 
Bay  come, 
ew  rejgn  of 
season  of 
er  the  man- 
seven  years 
ssin  House, 
lurray  Hill, 
lired  to  as- 
they  will  be 


NDS. 

(their  time 
of  interest, 
and  seven 
i  very  little 
al  Basin  to 
'■  You  can 
chine  from 
cents,  you 
enjoy  your 
hould  you 
intil  the  5 
5.     A  car- 
rom  Mon- 
!  passage 
on  board 
s.     As  it 
c,  than  to 


41 

go  down,  (reason,  they  are  compelled  to  pass  through  the 
Lachine,  Bohomoise  and  Cornwall  qanals,  which  con- 
sumes the  time.)  All  passengers  arrive  at  Alexandria  Bay, 
every  day,  between  one  and  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  except  on 
Monday. 

WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  CATCHING  FISH. 

During  the  summer  of  1884  I  was  at  the  Thousand  Is- 
land House,  Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y.,  and  took  note  of  some 
of  the  best  catches  of  fish,  which  with  pleasure  I  give  space 
here,  that  my  friends  may  see,  and  those  who  may  have 
heard  that  there  is  no  good  fishing  at  the  bay,  a  chance  to 
judge.  Let  me  first  say  that  anybody  can  catch  fish  of  the 
following  varieties  anywhere  in  the  St  Lawrence  River : 
Rock  Bass,  Black  Bass,  Perch,  Pike,  Pickerel  and  Musca- 
longe.  I  have  caught,  off  the  dock  at  the  bay,  in  less  than 
two  hours,  a  Black  Bass  weighing  three  and  one  half  pounds 
and  a  Pickerel  weighing  over  six  pounds. 

THE  FISH  CATCH  OF  1884. 

While  the  fishing  commenced  quite  early  last  season  the 
first  catch  of  note  wa^  made  by  Dr.  J.  L  Perry,  of  Sara- 
toga Springs,  N.  Y.,  on  June  24th,  which  consisted  of  Black 
Bass,  Pickerel  and  Muscalonge,  and  the  Doctor  ia  credited 
with  catching  the  largest  Muscalonge  of  the  season  weigh- 
ing 18  pounds. 

Mr.  Abe  Harris,  of  N.  Y.,  caught,  July  4th.  two  Black 
Bass  weighing  4f  and  4^  pounds  each,  his  entire  catch  num- 
bered 27,  and  he  was  only  three  hours  away. 

Mr.  M.  J.  HuRCH,  caught  July  6th,  four  of  the  largest 


! 


1_ 


■M 


M 


43 


Oswego  Bass  of  the  season,  their  respective  weights  being 

5*.  Sh  4.  4f.         . 

Mr.  George  Miller,  of  916  Sixth  Avenue,  N.  Y.,  caught 
a  Pickerel,  July  8th,  weighing  14  pounds. 

Quite  an  excitement  prevailed  on  the  morning  of  July  8th, 
in  front  of  the  1,000  Island  House,  where  three  gentlemen 
guests  caught  each  a  pickerel,  weighing  respectively  7^,  $x 
and  4  pounds.  Will  Estus,  a  fisherman,  caught  the  same 
day  a  pickerel  weighing  7  pounds. 

Dr.  Hauks,  a  dentist  of  New  York,  caught  in  two  hours, 
not  two  hundred  yards  from  the  Hotel  five  Pickerel,  the 
largest  weighing  12  pounds,  and  four  others  15  pounds.  The 
Doctor  prefering  Bass  fishing,  caught  one  day  34  fish  that 
did  not  vary  two  ounces  from  two  pounds  each,  a  very  pretty 
sight  to  look  upon  if  you  admire  fish. 

Mr.  Hurburt  R.  Clark,  of  New  York,  firm  of  Teft, 
Weller  &  Co.,  is  probably  the  most  enthusiastic  as  well  as 
the  best  posted  gentleman  that  comes  to  the  bay  to  fish.  He 
caught  during  the  month  of  June,  1,407  Black  Bass.  The 
custom  prevails,  or  rather  the  law  is,  that  no  fish  is  kept  that 
weighs  less  than  one  pound.  Mr.  Clark  put  back  of  the 
above  number  900,  the  tails  of  which  he  clipped  in  a  pecu- 
liar manner,  so  he  may  know  each  jnear  if  the  same  fish  is 
caught  again.  One  day  last  summer  he  caught  a  Bass  while 
the  dinner  horn  was  blowing,  and  in  his  haste  he  gave  the 
fish  a  different  clip  from  the  usual  one,  and  proceeded  to 
dinner.  Upon  his  return,  the  first  fish  caught  was  the  one 
he  clipped  before  taking  his  meal.  He  must  have  been 
-stuck  on  Clark  or  the  bait,  the  reader  can  judge  for  himself. 

Mr.  F.  G.  Ringold,  of  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  an  experienced 
fisher  in  those  waters  for  over  20  years ;  he  knows  just 


im^ 


WBHMfflfftHWIly^ij 


-'"■I'll*"*"'"'"" 


^ 


•ttH 


ights  being 

v.,  caught 

of  July  8th, 

gentlemen 

vely  7i,  5i 

t  the  same 

two  hours, 
ckerel,  the 
unds.  The 
(4  fish  that 
very  pretty 

m  of  Teft, 
as  well  as 
to  fish.  He 
<ass.     The 
s  kept  that 
ack  of  the 
in  a  pecu- 
irae  fish  is 
Bass  while 
s  gave  the 
ceeded  to 
IS  the  one 
lave  been 
)r  himself, 
perienced 
nows  just 


> 


43 

where  to  catch  any  kind  of  fish  desired.  I  tested  his  ability 
in  that  channel  one  day  by  ordering  several  varieties  as  well 
as  sizes  of  fish,  and  the  order  was  filled  to  the  letter  in 
every  particular,  consisting  of  two  four-pound  Bass,  two 
Pike  weighing  seven  pounds,  etc.,  etc.  One  great  trouble 
he  encountered  as  well  as  others  during  the  forepart  of  the 
season,  was  the  abundance  of  small  shad  said  to  have  been 
put  in  to  propagate  the  streams  by  Seth  Green,  the  fish  cul- 
turist  of  N.  Y.,  which  furnish  food  for  the  large  fish,  so  they 
are  not  tempted  by  bait.  The  day  I  speak  of,  Mr.  F.  G. 
Kingold  said  that  the  first  fishes  caught  each  threw  up  one 
of  those  small  shad  upon  being  thrown  into  the  boat. 

Messrs.  J.  S.  &  S.  H.  Ehrich,  Ehrich  Brothers,  of  N. 
Y.,  came  to  the  Bay  to  catch  fish  and  enjoy  themselves, 
which  they  do.  They  caught,  July  2Sth,  35  Black  Bass, 
two  of  which  weighed  7  pounds.  They  took  their  yacht  for 
a  twenty-four  hour  trip  among  the  Islands,  returning  inside 
the  day  with  217  Black  and  Oswego  Bass,  weighing  from  i^ 
pounds  to  5  pounds  each  They  caught  the  first  Musca- 
longe  of  the  season. 

W.  C.  CoMPTON  a  guest  of  Mr.  Ringold,  of  Cincinnati, 
caught,  July  25th,  22  Black  Bass,  weighing  37  pounds,  the 
largest  3^,  3  and  2^  pounds, 

W.  H.  Eagan,  of  Chicago,  111.  Mr.  Thomas  De  Silver 
Jind  F.  H.  RocKWELi^  of  Warren,  Pa.,  formed  a  party  to  take 
in  a  few  days  fishing  among  the  Islands,  July  23,  they 
brought  home  65  Black  Bass  weighing  115  pounds  the  largest 
weighing  3^  pounds,  the  best  average  size  fish  of  the  reason. 

W.  Irving  Snyder,  Sporting  Goods  House,  Nassau  St., 
N.  Y.,  caught  a  Pickerel,  weighing  6^  pounds,  within  one 
hundred  yards  of  the  1,000  Island  House,  July  29th. 


'  t 


44 

Mr.  G.  DeWitt,  Belleville,  N.  J.,caught  an  Oswego  Bass 
weighing  6  pounds,  and  5  Black  Bass  weighing  from  1  to 
8  pounds  each. 

Mr.  a.  J.  Post,  of  Jersy  City,  caught  12  Black  Bass, 
weighing  27  pounds,  the  largest  weighed  3 J  pounds. 

Mr.  G.  W.  Pease  and  Mrs.  A.  Given,  caught,  Aug.  4th, 
10  Pickerel  weighing  from  2^  to  5J  each. 

Mrs.  M.  Hemiijgwav,  Jr.,  of  Watertown,  Conn.,  caught. 
Aug.  5th,  a  Pickerel  weighing  7  pounds. 

Mrs.  H.  R.  Clark,  of  N.  Y.,  caught.  Aug.  sth,  16  Black 
Bass  weighing  24  pounds,  the  largest  3^  pounds. 

Mr.  Dabnev  Carr,  of  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  caught  three  Bass 
weighing  7  pounds,  and  7  Pickerel  weighing  29  pounds. 

Little  Charley  Neil.son,  caught  a  Pickerel,  Aug.  6th,, 
weighing  5^  pounds.  His  brother  caught  on  the  same  day- 
one  weighing  4^  pounds. 

Mrs.  M.  p.  Dunbar,  of  N.  Y.,  caught,  Aug.  6th,  6  Pick- 
erel weighing  24  pounds,  the  largest  weighed  6^  pounds. 

H.  M.  Williams,  of  N.  Y.,  caught  7  Wall  Eyed  Pike 
weighing  28  pounds. 

W.  E,  Lanier,  of  N.  Y.,  caught  a  Black  Bass,  Aug.  8th^ 
weighing  3^  pounds. 

Alex  B.  Simon,  of  N.  Y.,  caught  a  Wall  Eyed  Pike  weigh- 
ing 7  pounds. 

Mr.  Jule  S  Ehrich,  of  N.  Y.  and  party,  consisting  of 
Mr.  Mark  Stein,  W.  H.  B.  Douse,  of  Boston,  J.  Stem,  M. 
Schlein,  C.  Schlein,  together  caught,  Aug.  nth,  176  Black 
Bass  weighing  250  p>ounds  in  six  hours  and  twenty  minutes. 

Mr.  Harry  M.  Stadler,  of  N.  Y.,  caught,  Aug.  13th,  a 
Wall  Eyed  Pike,  weighing  over  6  pounds,  and  several  Black 
Bass  weighing  over  3  pounds. 


■^     V 


■  t.r.fc-,.f'-i«-K.'...  ^1  ill- 


'r. 


^ 


wego  Bass 
rom  I  to 

lack  Bass, 

ids. 

,  Aug.  4th, 

n.,  caught, 

I,  1 6  Black 

three  Bass 
>ounds. 
Aug.  6th, 
e  same  day 

th,  6  Pick- 
pounds. 
Eyed  Pike 

,  Aug.  8th, 

*ike  weigh- 

nsisting  of 
Stern,  M. 
176  Black 
y  ininuteB. 
ig.  13th,  a 
'era!  Black 


45 

JuDOE  Troy,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  and  a  select  party, 
caught,  Aug.  13,  100  Black  Bass  weighing  from  i^  to  3^ 
pounds  each.  The  Judge,  who  is  a  good  shot  with  a  rifle, 
brought  home  a  Loon  weighing  22  poundn,  and  a  Mink. 
Being  quite  an  amateur  taxidermist  he  prepared  them  for 
his  private  collection ,  which  I  understand  is  quite  large  and 
contains  many  rare  specimens. 

Mr.  a.  Isaacs  and  Mr.  S  White,  with  their  ladies,  were 
fishing,  Aug.  1 2th,  and  caught  87  Black  Ba&s  in  9  hours. 

Mrs.  a.  Isaacs  and  her  daughter  caught  the  two  largest 
Pickerel  of  the  season,  one  weighed  13  lbs.  and  the  other 
12  pounds. 

Mr  H.  R.  Clark  and  party  caught  in  July,  1,658  Black 
Bass,  1,000  were  less  than  one  pound  They  took  a  trip 
Aug.  1 2th,  with  friends  and  caught  346  Black  Bass.  Mrs. 
A.  J.  Post,  of  Jersey  City,  caught  a  Bass  weighing  4^  pounds. 

Miss  Blanch  Lincoln,  of  Boston,  (relative  of  the  late 
lamented  Abraham),  caught  a  Pickerel  weighing  over  3 
pounds,  and  several  Black  Bass. 

Mrs.  R.  L.  Moslev  and  Mrs.  A.  B.  Lincoln,  of  Boston, 
Mass.,  two  very  enthusiastics  on  catching  fish,  determined 
to  make  a  record,  making  preparations  for  a  week  ahead, 
went  out  one  day  and  both  caught — cold. 

The  palm  for  varieiy  of  fish  for  season  of  1884,  must  be 
awarded  to  Charles  E.  Storv,  of  N.  Y.,  who  caught,  Aug. 
list.  Black  Bass  weighing  2^  pounds,  Black  Bass  i  pound, 
Muscalonge  5  pounds,  Chub  if  pounds.  Wall  Eyed  Pike 
54  pounds,  Pickerel  6  pounds ;  23  fish  all  told,  and  most 
every  variety  i.-x  the  river.  :  ■:     :<  ' 

To  those  who  say  there  is  no  fishing  at  Alexandria  Bay, 
(and  do  not  want  the  earth),  allow  me  to  say  Mr.  H.  R. 


I 


Ji 


46 

Clark  has  a  standing  offer  with  me,  to  bet  any  man  $io 
that  he  can  catch  ten  pounds  of  fish  (any  where  within  a 
mile  of  the  Hotel)  in  an  hour. 

Mr.  H.  a.  Redfiei-d,  of  Hartford,  Conn.,caught7o  Black 
Bass  in  five  hours. 

Mr.  Adrien  C.  D'Henzei.,  caught,  Aug.  20th,  a  Black 
Bass  weighing  4  pounds,  and  a  Wall  Eyed  Pike  weighing  5^^ 
pounds. 

J.  W.  Cornish,  of  N.  Y.,  caught  20  fish  in  two  hours, 
the  largest,  a  Bass  weighing  3^  pounds. 

Miss  Lily  Stokem,  of  N.  Y.,  caught  a  Pickerel  weighing 
II  pounds. 

Mr.  W.  R.  Proctor,  of  N.  Y.,  caught  the  best  catch  of 
Wall  Eyed  Pike  for  the  season,  Aug.  20th,  five  of  them 
weighed  19  pounds. 

Mrs.  H.  a.  Redfield,  of  Hartford,  Conn.,  was  taking  a. 
party  of  her  friends  out  one  day  for  fishing  and  pleasure, 
and  I  requested  her  to  catch  me  a  Whale.  Upon  their  re- 
turn I  was  presented  with  a  peculiar  specimen  of  the  finny 
tribe,  which,  if  not  a  Whale,  was  the  opposite  in  size.  It 
was  neatly  packed  in  a  box  and  shown  for  several  days,  but 
the  oldest  fisherman  could  not  say  he  ever  saw  its  counter- 
part before. 

Mr.  J.  W.  Case,  owner  of  the  Boat- Livery,  who  is  the  best 
boat  builder  at  the  Bay,  also  dealer  in  fishing  tackle,  rented 
a  boat  to  Mr.  Saunders,  who  caught  thirteen  Pickerel  in  two 
hours.  Mr.  Case,  on  a  bet,  took  a  man  in  a  boat  for  one 
hour  and  caught  seven  Pickerel,  the  largest  weighing  4  lbs. 
He  won  the  bet. 

Mr.  H.  Merrell,  of  Montreal  (firm  of  W.  H.  Merrell  Sc 


,ny  man  $to 
lere  within  a 

ght  70  Black 

3th,  a  Black 
weighing  5^ 

two  hours, 

:rel  weighing 

)est  catch  of 
nve  of  them 

i^as  taking  a 
nd  pleasure, 
on  their  re- 
of  the  finny 
in  size.  It 
al  days,  but 
its  counter- 

o  is  the  best 
ckle,  rented 
kerel  in  two 
oat  for  one 
ghing  4  lbs. 

.  Merrell  & 


Co.),  caught  at  Hamilton's  Island,  84  pounds  of  Pike  and 
Pickerel  and  four  Bass  weighing  4  lbs.  each ;  fourteen  Pike 
weighed  from  4  to  8  lbs.  each.  Mr.  Merrell  caught  last 
season  the  largest  Wall  Eyed  Pike  ever  taken  from  the  St. 
Lawrence  on  an  8  oz.  rod,  17^  pounds  weight.  He  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  best  fishermen  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

I  am  really  sorry  to  cut  this  subject  short,  but  space 
prevents  my  giving  any  more  names  and  catches.  The 
largest  fish  caught  during  the  season,  was  a  Muscalonge, 
weighing  38  lbs.,  caught  at  an  island  opposite  Rockport ; 
the  largest  caught  at  the  Bay,  18  lbs. ;  the  largest  Pike,  7^ 
lbs. ;  the  largest  Pickerel,  13  lbs.,  and  the  largest  Bass,  5^ 
lbs.  Respectfully  yours, 

'       E.  F.  B.\BBAGE. 

A    REAL    LIVE    DUDE 

was  at  the  Bay  last  season,  and  I  must  give  him  credit  for 
one  thing  if  I  could  not  for  having  either  money  or  brains, 
but  will  say  he  was  very  attentive  to  the  ladies,  and  it  may 
be  said  to  his  credit  he  never  tried  to  cut  me  out.  One 
fine  morning  he  induced  three  of  the  nicest  young  ladies  at 
the  bay  to  take  a  boat  ride,  and  for  the  privilege  of  their 
company  agreed  to  do  the  rowing  himself  1  hey  had  been 
out  upon  the  water  for  some  time,  and  he  had  done  the 
rowing  heroically,  but  getting  into  the  strong  current  his 
physical  development  was  being  tested  to  its  utmost,  when 
he  asked  the  young  ladies  "if  it  would  not  be  better  for 
him  to  hug  the  shore."  After  1  pause  of  a  minute  the  girl- 
iest  girl  of  the  group  exclaimed :  "  Well,  if  you  Ci>,nnot  find 
anything  better  to  hug,  do  for  Heaven  sake  'hug  the 
shore!'" 


i    I, 


if 


\ 

'  : 

'■:,] 

■  j 

i 

:;i 

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fi 

1 

1 

11 

B 

\ 

M 

■:   1 

■■■  i 
■i 

■1 

M 

* 

i'l 

i 

.a 

SOME    OF    THE    OWNERS. 

St.  John's,  five  acres,  Judge  C.  Donohue,  New  York. 

Manhattan,  five  acres,  Judge  Spencer  and  J.  L.  Haa- 
brouck.  New  York. 

Deshler.  twelve  acres,  W.  G.  Deshler,  Columbus,  O. 

Deer,  twenty-five  acres,  S.  Miller,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Fairy  Land,  twenty  acres,  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden, 
Columbus,  O. 

Piatt,  two  acres,  Sisson  &  Pox,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Brown's,  ten  acres,  S.  G.  Pope,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Pleasant,  three  acres,  Sisson  &  Fox,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Pullman's,  three  acres,  George  M.  Pullman,  Chicago,  111. 

Friendly,  three  acres,  A.  B.  Parker  and  Abner  Mellen, 
Jr.,  New  York. 

Cherry,  nine  acres,  the  Reverend  George  Rockwell,  Ful- 
ton, N.  Y. 

Nobby,  over  three  acres,  H.  R.  Heath,  New  York. 

Welcome,  three  acres,  S.  G.  Pope,  Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y. 

Florence  Proctor,  one  acre,  E  R.  Proctor,  Cincinnati,  O. 

Maple,  three  acres,  J.  L.  Hasbrouck,  owner. 

Netts,  one-half  acre,  E.  A.  Kollymer,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Summer  Land,  ten  acres,  the  Reverend  Asa  Saxe,  D.  D., 
Rochester,  N.  Y.;  Almon  Gunnison,  D.  D.,  Brooklyn;  and 
Richmond  Fisk,  D.  D.,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

Isle  Imperial,  one  acre,  Mrs.  LeCount,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Linleth  Gow,  one-half  aa-e,  R.  A,  Livingston,  New  York. 

Elephant  Rock,  one-fourth  acre.  T.  C.  Ciittenden,  Wa- 
tertown,  N.  Y. 

Idlewild,  four  acres,  R.  A.  Packer,  Sayre,  Pa. 

Arcadia  and  Ina,  two  acres,  S.  A.  Briggs,  New  York. 

Sport,  four  acres,  H.  A.  Packer,  Mauch  Chunk,  Pa. 


49 


w  York, 
J.  L.  Has- 

3US,  O. 

N.  Y. 
B.   Hayden, 

ly- 

ria  Bay. 
Jhicago,  111. 
ler  Mellen, 

ckwell,  Ful- 

York. 
Kh,  N.  Y. 
ncinnati,  O. 

/n,  N.  Y. 
»axe,  D.  D., 
oklyn;  and 

lelphia,  Pa. 
New  York. 
:nden,  Wa- 


V  York. 
ik,Pa. 


Kit  Grafton,  one-fourth  acre,  Mrs.  S.  L.  George,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Island  Mary,  two  acres,  W.  L.  Palmer,  Watertown,  and 
James  M.  Browner,  St.  Louis. 

Little  Charm,  one-eighth  acre,  Mrs.  F.  W.  Barker,  Alex- 
andria  Bay. 

Frost,  two  acres,  Mrs  Sarah  L.  Frost,  Watertown. 

Excelsior  Group,  five  acres,  C.  S.  Goodwin,  Oneida,  New 
York.  >,;,,,<, 

Resort,  three  acres,  Pioneer  Club,  Watertown. 

Island  Royal,  Royal  E.  Dean,  New  York. 

Devil's  Oven,  one-fourth ^cre,  has  been  fitted  up  with  an 
observatory,  H.  R.  Heath,  New  York. 

Sylvan  and  Moss,  three  acres,  S.  T.  Woolworth,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Cuba,  five  acres,  W.  F.  Storey,  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  and  cu- 
pied  by  Mr.  Easton,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Little  Angell,  one-eighth  acre,  W.  A.  Angell,  Chicago. 

Little  Lehigh,  one  acre.  Col.  R.  B.  Yates,  Rochester,  and 
C.  H.  Cummings,  New  York. 

Warner's,  four  acres. 

Island  Home,  one  acre,  S.  D.  Hungerford,  Adams,  N.  Y. 

Sunny  Side,  one  acre,  Mrs.  Emily  Moak,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Wild  Rose,  one  acre,  W.  G.  Rose,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 

No  name,  one-quarter  acre,  Mrs.  F.  Haramerkin,  Syra- 
cuse, N.  Y. 

Harmony,  one-quarter  acre,  Mrs.  Celia  Berger,  Syracuse, 
N.  Y. 

Wynnstay,  one  acre,  Mrs.  Bergin,  of  Spuyten'Duyvel, 
N.  Y. 

Alice  Isle,  two  acres,  J,  G.  Hill,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


|!f 


ii'i 


ri 


i.  I'-W 


•I 


■■■■■MHM 


■I 


i 


5° 

Sunbeam  Group,  one  acre,  C.  E.  Ailing,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Walton,  two  acres,  Mrs.  Robins,  and  Mrs.  Robinson,  of 
New  York  and  Brooklyn,  purchased  in  1883,  will  be  im- 
proved by  all  the  art  at  their  command.        y'''!'*,^ '■*      /   :^ 

Bula  Vista,  Lodge  Keepler  Point,  owned  by  Mr.  Bos- 
worth,  of  Milwaukee,  Wis. 

Seven  Sister  Isles,  owned  by  Dr.  Winston,  of  Washington, 

Comfort,  formerW  Pratt  and  Centennial,  owned  by  A.  E. 
Clark,  of  Chicago  Produce  Exchange,  who  has  spent 
$20,000  upon  the  spot  to  beautify  it. 

Deer  Island,  owned  by  Hon.  Sam.  Miller,  of  New  Haven, 
Conn.,  formerly  of  Rochester,  N.  Y, 

Melrose  Lodge,  owned  by  Mrs.  A.  B.  Pullman  and  Mrs. 
C.  B.  Marsh.  ^  '        * 

Florancs  Island,  owned  by  H.  S.  Chandler,  of  the  Inde- 
pendent. 

Two-Islands-in-Eel-Bay,  two  acres,  E.  L.  Sargent,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y.  V    .  ;  V 

Long  Bra-ich,  ten  acres,  Mrs.  C.  E.  Clark,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Nigger,  three  acres,  Eugene  Robinson,  of  New  York. 

Ella,  one-quarter  acre,  R.  E.  Hungerford,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Lookout,  two  acres,  Thomas  H.  Borden,  New  York. 

GrinncU  Island,  two  acres,  D.  G.  Grinnell,  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y. 

Douglass,  three  acres,  Douglass  Miller,  New  Haven 
Conn. 

Hart's,  five  acres,  E.  Kirke  Hart,  Albion,  N.  Y. 

Sunny-^Tde,  two  acres,  Wm.  Stickenson,  Sayre,  Pa. 

Wau  Winnett,  two  acres,  Mr.  Hill,  Chicago,  lU. 


^ 


Rochester,  N.  Y. 

^rs.  Robinson,  of 

1883,  will  be  im- 

med  by  Mr.  Bos- 

)n,  of  Washington, 

il,  owned  by  A.  E. 
,  who  has    spent 

er,  of  New  Haven, 
Pullman  and  Mrs. 
mdler,  of  the  Inde- 
L.  Sargent,  Water- 
Clark,  Watertown, 

,  of  New  York, 
arford,  Watertown, 

en.  New  York, 
xrinnell,  Brooklyn, 

iller.   New  Haven 

ion,  N.  Y. 
m,  Sayre,  Pa. 
licago.  III 


5» 


WESTMINSTER    PARK. 

Opposite  the  Thousand  Island  House,  is  Westminster 
Park,  on  the  lower  end  of  Wells  Island.  It  is  eight  miles 
long  and  from  three  to  four  miles  wide.  On  the  other 
side  of  it  is  the  Canadian  channel  of  the  river,  about  half  a 
mile  wide.  The  lower  end  of  (he  Island  is  separated  into 
two  parts  by  one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  water  that  ever 
rippled  against  the  bows  of  a  canoe.  This  is  called  the 
•  Lake  of  the  Island,"  and  it  is  connected  with  the  river,  on 
both  the  American  and  Canadian  sides,  by  a  nanow  chan- 
nel. The  Lake  is  five  or  six  miles  long,  as  smooth  as  glass, 
and  is  altogether  too  pretty  and  too  romantic  to  attempt  to 
describe.  ,  ;.„.,,.:. .,..,,■ 

Westminster  Park  was  bought  in  1874  by  a  Presbyterian 
stock  company,  and  it  now  has  about  15  miles  of  drives 
and  some  fine  buildings.  It  has  two  long  water  fronts — one 
on  the  American  side  of  the  river,  and  the  other  on  the 
Lake  of  the  Island,  on  the  Canadian  side,  there  is  a  high 
hill  on  the  island  called  Mount  Beulah,  though  after  climb- 
ing it  I  think  the  Hill  Difficulty  would  be  a  more  appro- 
priate name.  There  is  a  large  chapel  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  known  as  Bethune  Chapel,  with  seating  accommoda- 
tions for  a  thousand  persons,  and  wth  a  tower  '36  feet 
high,  affording  a  beautiful  view  of  the  river  and  the  islands. 
The  name  of  the  chapel  recalls  the  fact  that  the  late  Rev. 
Dr.  Geo.  W.  Bethune  waa  the  pioneer  tourist  through  this 
region,  and  till  his  death  continued  to  come  here  summer 
after  summer  for  recreation. 


-i 


Ill 


5* 
BONNIE    CASTLE. 

"Timothy  Titcomb"  (Dr.  J.  G.  Holland,  editor  of 
Scribner's  Monthly),  chose  this  point  as  '.a  haven  of  rest 
and  recuperation,  and  who  does  not  commend  his  choice. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  he  died  in  New  York  shortly 
after  leaving  his  cherished  Bonnie  Castle  in  1881  for  his 
ardous  winter's  labors.     Light  house  in  the  distance. 

A  LETTER  FROM  SETH  GREEN. 

'•.-,-    NEW  YORK   STATE   FISHERY   COMMISSION. 

Office  of  the  Superintendent. 

Rochester,  N.  Y.,  March  20th. 
My  Dear  Little  "  Phat  Boy  :" 

You  request  of  me  a  letter  for  your  book.  Let- 
ter writing  is  not  my  forte,  but  you  are  welcome  to  use  these 
facts.  In  1855  I  bought  an  island  near  Alexandria  Bay, 
built  a  house  upon  it  in  the  fall  and  moved  there  with  my 
family  the  next  spring  and  lived  there  during  the  summers 
of  1856  and  1857.  The  year  1858  I  spent  a  part  of  the 
season  with  a  party  of  prominent  gentlemen.  During  the 
time  I  was  there,  if  I  wanted  black  bass  for  breakfast  I 
could  take  my  two  fly  rods  and  take  from  5  to  10  black  bass 
by  trolling  around  my  island  of  4  acres,  and  any  time  after 
Aug.  I  St,  I  could  take  my  gun  and  kill  a  mess  of  ducks  in 
a  short  time.  There  was  a  few  deer  on  Welles  Island  then. 
I  have  killed  50  ducks  in  one  day  among  the  islands,  and  I 
could  take  loo  black  bass  with  fly  any  day  I  wished. 

'     Immediately  opposite  is  Hart's  Island,  back  of  which  is 
Deshler.    Next  on  the  left  is 


d,  editor  of 
laven  of  rest 
his  choice. 
York  shortly 
1 88 1  for  his 
stance. 

GREEN. 

ION. 

larch  2oth. 

ir  book.  Let- 
e  to  use  these 
ixandria  Bay, 
there  with  my 

the  summers 

a  part  of  the 

During  the 

ir  breakfast  I 

lo  black  bass 
my  time  after 
i  of  ducks  in 
s  Island  then, 
islands,  and  I 
irished. 

:  of  which  is 


S3 

MANHATTAN, 

the  first  island  on  which  habitation  was  attempted.  It  was 
bought  by  Mr.  Seth  Green,  the  fish  culturist  of  N.  Y.,  in 
1855.  He  built  a  cottage  upcn  it  an  J  for  several  years  spent 
his  summers  here.  Mr.  J.  L.  Hasbrouck  and  Judge  J.  C. 
Spencer,  of  N.  Y.,  purchased  it  from  him.  They  have 
spent  $15,000  upon  the  Island. '  The  original  cottage  built 
by  Seth  Green  still  remains  and  is  used  by  them  as  a  dining 
room. 

Between  Deshler  °and  Manhattan,  looking  backward,  is 
Fairyland,  owned  by  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden,  of  Colum- 
bus, O.  This  is  really  one  of  the  finest  islands  in  the  river. 
At  a  vast  expense  art  has  triumphed  over  nature,  trans- 
forming a  barren  into  the  loveliest  of  green  lawns.  Next 
en  the  left  is  Deer  island ;  then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  "  Thous- 
and Islands,"  is  located  raid- way  between  the  north  and 
south  channels  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  three  milen  be- 
low Alexandria  Bay,  having  an  area  of  fourteen  acres  and 
is  the  largest  of  the  "Summerland  group,"  which  includes 
"Idlewild,"  "Sport,"  "Ida"  and  "Arcadia."  The  island 
is  covered  with  a  dense  forest  furnishing  an  abundance  of 
shade  and  is  said  to  have  the  finest  groves  on  the 
river.  At  the  extreme  northerly  and  southerly  ends  of  the 
island  there  are  extensive  sandy  beaches,  a  great  rarity  in 
this  locality,  which  are  used  by  the  "  SummerlanderB"  for 
bathing  purposes.  The  island  is  traversed  from  end  to  end 
by  a  most  delightful  natural  avenue,  densely  shaded  and 
lined  on  either  side  with  a  thick    undergrowth  of  wild 


f 


wm 


M 


■  1 


il 


54 

flowers  and  ferns.  The  island  is  owned  by  the  Summerland 
Association,  a  corporation  organized  under  and  by  virtue 
of  the  laws  of  the  State  of  New  York,  for  social  and 
yachting  purposes,  and  composed  of  the  following  stock- 
holders: Rev.  Asa  Saxe,  D.  D.,  Isaiah  F.  Force,  James 
Sargent,  Sears  E.  Brace,  Emory  B.  Chase,  Henry  C.  Wis- 
ner,  Lewis  P.  Ross,  Francis  M.  McFarlin,  Chas.  W.  Gray, 
George  H.  Newell,  Henry  O.  Hall,  Joseph  A.  StuU  and 
Frank  W.  Hawley,  of  Rochester.  N.  Y.;  Rev.  Richmond 
Fisk,  D.  D.,  Alfred  Underbill  and  Horace  Bronson,  of 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.;  Rev.  Almond  Gunnison,  D.  D.,  and  Frank 
Sperry,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  The  association  have  erected 
upon  the  island  a  large  and  commodious  "  Club  House" 
wherein  the  members  of  the  association  and  their  families 
take  their  meals. 

After  setting  apart  a  large  grbve  at  each  end  of  the  island 
for  general  use,  the  balance  of  the  island  was  divided  into 
lots,  one  of  which  was  assigned  to  each  stockholder.  Upon 
these  lots  so  assigned,  the  members  of  the  association  have 
erected  cottages  for  the  sole  use  of  their  own  families. 

In  addition  to  the  Club  House  the  association  has  erected 
numerous  pavilions  and  summer  houses  in  different  parts  of 
the  island,  together  with  a  large  ice-house  and  has  con- 
structed several  docks  of  sufficient  size  to  permit  of  the  land- 
ing of  large  steamers. 

The  association  owns  a  large  steam  yacht  which  is  used 
in  running  to  and  from  Alexandria  Bay  and  for  fishing  and 
pleasure  excursions. 

Each  member  of  the  association  provides  himself  with 
sailing  and  row  boats.  The  Club  house  is  opened  for  the 
reception  of  the  members  of  the  association  and  their  im- 


i 


lummerland 

by  virtue 

social  and 

ving  stock- 

rce,  James 

iry  C,  Wis- 

.  W.  Gray, 

.  Stull  and 

Richmond 

}ronson,  of 

and  Frank 

ive  erected 

lub  House" 

eir  families 

>f  the  island 
livided  into 
der.  Upon 
iation  have 
nilies. 

has  erected 
ent  parts  of 
id  has  con- 
oftheland- 

lich  is  used 
fishing  and 

imself  with 
led  for  the 
i  their  im- 


me  te  familfis  onfy,  on  the  first  day  of  July  of  each  year, 
and  remains  open  until  about  September  15  th,  during  all 
of  which  time  the  yacht  is  at  the  service  of  the  party. 

Between  Deer  island  and  Summerland  is  Cedar ;  back  of 
Cedar  is  Sport,  owned  by  H.  A.  Packer,  who  died  in  1884. 
The  island,  however,  will  be  occupied  this  year  by  H.  C. 
Wilbur,  G.  B.  Linderman,  C.  B.  Newton,  and  other  friends. 
Anthony  point  is  on  the  right.  This  place  is  the  resort  of 
E.  and  T.  H.  Anthony,  the  extensive  dealers  in  photogra- 
phic goods  in  New  York. 

APING   CUSTOMS,  MANNERS,  ETC.,  OF 
THE  ENGLISH.     ^     j      -^ 

This  is  done  to  a  great  extent,  not  only  in  Canada,  but 
I  am  sorry  to  say  in  free  America,  better  known  as  the  U. 
S.  I  cannot  find  any  fault  with  the  average  Canadian  who 
is,  as  it  were,  governed  by  Queen  Victoria,  and  must  have 
some  reverence  for  royalty  in  the  aping  of  their  manners 
and  customs,  but  in  this  land  where  we  have  an  abundance 
of  Queens,  Princes,  Lords  and  Sovereigns,  who  are  not 
flattered  by  titles,  but  bear  their  honors  meekly,  all  are 
royal  born  and  bred.  Speaking  of  titles  reminds  me  that 
at  home  I  am  plain  Edward  F.  Babbage,  or  "  Phat  Boy," 
(I  spell  it  with  '  Ph '  because  it  does  not  sound  so  greasy), 
but  the  moment  I  leave  home,  say  for  a  trip  through  the 
South,  I  am  called  Captain  for  the  first  few  hundred  miles, 
then-  a  little  way  on  it  becomes  Colonel,  and  when  I  get  to 
Georgia  it  is  Major,  in  South  Carolina  it  is  Judge  or 
General,  until  I  get  to  Florida,  and  I  have  heard  them  say 
there  "great  God  is  that  you  ?  "  but  wc  diverge,  returning 


56 

to  the  aping  of  the  manners  of  Princess  Louise.  I  wish 
to  say  right  here  that  I  firmly  believe  it  did  the  Canadian 
people  a  great  amount  of  good,  but  fail  to  see  where  the 
people  of  the  United  States  could  be  benefitted.  I  was 
told  that  at  Kingston  the  Princess  asked  for  her  strawberries 
in  a  box  with  the  hulls  on,  and  when  placed  before  her  she 
took  them  up  by  the  stem  between  the  thumb  and  finger 
and  bit  the  berry  off  and  placed  the  hull  on  the  plate.  Now 
everybody  does  the  same  ;  previous  to  her  visit  they  used 
to  hull  and  wash  them  before  placing  them  on  the  table. 
The  same  with  grapes,  they  used  to  wash  them  in  a  goblet 
of  water  at  the  table  before  eating  them,  now  they  take  the 
grape  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  press  it  gently  to  the 
lips  and  squeeze  gently,  and  juice  as  well  as  insides  are 
soon  on  the  way  to  digestion,  and  the  skin  laid  away  on  the 
plate  as  the  Princess  did.  Asparagus,  it  was  almost  painful 
for  me  to  see  Canadians  eat  it  in  as  many  ways  as  there 
were  people  at  the  table,  in  fact  no  two  ate  it  alike  until 
after  the  Princess  came ;  now  everybody  takes  it  by  the 
hard  green  end,  between  thumb  and  finger,  and  putting  it 
into  the  mouth,  closes  the  teeth  down  upon  it  and  draws  it 
gently  from  the  mouth,  leaving  all  that  is  digestible  within 
and  the  remainder  is  laid  on  the  plate.  The  Princess  once 
took  a  walk  through  her  kitchen  at  Rideau  Hall,  Ottawa, 
took  the  vegetable  cook  to  task  for  washing  fresh  picked 
peas  from  the  vine  that  had  just  been  shelled,  saying,  it  was 
nonsense,  if  your  hands  were  clean,  to  wash  a  virgin  pea. 


.ill 


YACHTING. 

Water — and  as  one  enthusiastic  writer  puts  it- 


-such 


water  I — is  abundant,  and  to  enjoy  this  water  in  a  pensive 


1 


1 


I© 


le.     I  wish 
Canadian 
where  the 
ed.     I  was 
trawberries 
»re  her  she 
and  iinger 
late.    Now 
they  used 
the  table, 
in  a  goblet 
ey  take  the 
ntly  to  the 
insides  are 
way  on  the 
lost  painful 
lys  as  there 
alike  until 
5  it  by  the 
putting  it 
id  draws  it 
ible  within 
ncess  once 
U,  Ottawa, 
esh  picked 
ing,  it  was 
gin  pea. 


i  it — such 
a  oensive 


57 

or  poetic  mood,  the  steam  yacht  should  be  bfought  into 
requisition.  Private  yachts  are  numerous  and  elegant,  and 
it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  owners  that  they  are  not  niggardly 
in  exhibiting  a  spirit  of  generosity  and  courtesy.  They  are 
constantly  inviting  individuals  and  parties  to  enjoy  the 
exhilerating  excitement  of  the  shooting  around  the  beauti- 
ful spots.  And  if  you,  dear  tourist,  have  no  friend  that 
invites  you  to  share  a  cushioned  seat  in  his  graceful  fairy- 
like craft,  then  go  to  Capt.  E.  W.  Visger,  on  the  Island 
Wanderer,  or  Capt.  Sweet,  of  the  John  Thorn,  and  they 
will  take  you  on  an  excursion  among  the  islands  that  you 
will  gladly  recall  as  a  cheerful  reminiscence  of  your  St. 
Lawrence  excursion,  for  the  opportunity  will  have  been 
offered  to  bring  within  the  range  of  your  vision  enchanting 
scenes  that  pen  is  not  adequate  to  describe,  but  by  pur- 
chasing one  of  the  "  Phat  Boy's  "  Birdseye  Maps  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  you  will  be  the  possessor  of  the  only  correct 
map  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  perfect  chart  and  guide  to 
the  river. 

Still  continuing  our  course,  looking  to  the  right,  is  the 
cottage  of  Mrs.  Clark  of  Watertown.  Next,  Goose  bay  is 
the  island  owned  by  Dr.  Carleton,  near  which  is  the  Three 
Sister's  Island ;  before  the  Three  Sister's  is  Hume's  Island. 
Next,  on  the  left,  is  Whiskey  Island,  and  on  the  right 
opposite  are  a  number  of  large  and  small  islands,  the  names 
of  which  we  will  not  weary  the  tourist's  brain  with. 

Goose  bay  is  really  beautiful,  if  its  name  is  slightly 
homely.  It  is  studded  with  islands,  and  fishing  abounds. 
It  is  here  that  Mr.  Hurbert  R.  Clark,  of  New  York,  in  one 
day  caught  some  300  pounds  of  black  bass,  ranging  in 
weight  from   i^  pounds  to  6^  pounds.     On  the  right  is 


■MlHI 


5« 

Lyon's  dock  and  Meeker's  island.  Next,  on  the  left,  is 
Three  Sisters  light ;  in  the  distance  is  Lone  Star,  or  Dark 
Island;  Island  No.  i,  it  is  called  by  some.  After  passing 
on  the  left  is  a  small  cluster  of  island  shoals.  On  the  right 
is  Chippewa  bay.  This  is  a  superb  sheet  of  water,  where 
the  fishing  is  a  marked  feature.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
Ogdensburg  people,  who  occupy  the  contiguous  islands. 
All  around  the  shore  are  camps,  cottages,  etc.,  and  make 
an  animated  scene  for  the  tourist.  Three  miles  from  Chip- 
pewa bay  on  the  left  is  Crossover  light;  thence  three  miles  to 
Cole's  light  on  the  left,  where  we  enter  the  Canadian  chan- 
nel. Nine  miles  in  the  distance  is  Brock ville.  On  the 
right  opposite  Cole's  light  is  Oak  point.  Four  miles  below 
is  Allen's  landing,  a  very  popular  place  for  picnics,  etc 
On  the  left  a  prominent  bluff.  On  the  right  for  six  miles 
the  islands  come  thick  and  fast ;  huge  rocks  rise  from  the 
water's  surface,  with  very  little  vegetation  or  foliage,  and 
the  boat  makes  her  way  rapidly  among  them,  winding 
around  like  a  snake,  heading  for  all  the  points  of  the  com- 
pass, freqnently  getting  herself  into  coves  and  bays  that 
apparently  have  no  outlet,  but  always  finding  a  channel, 
and  sailing  triumphantly  out  into  the  broad  waters  again. 

On  the  left  three  miles  this  side  of  Brockville  is  the  wreck 
of  a  schooner,  the  S.  M.  Cook,  laden  with  iron  ore.  She 
was  sailing  up ;  the  wind  subsided,  causing  her  to  drift  upon 
the  rocks,  and  remained.  The  Cook  was  raised  by  the 
Kingston  wreckers  last  season.  A  little  beyond  is  St.  Law- 
rence park,  used  for  pleasure  and  picnic  parties,  especially 
by  our  Canadian  friends  of  Brockville.  We  are  now  at  the 
village  of  Brockville ;  we  "  take  a  rest "  for  route  C. 

In  front  of  Brockville  are  the  last  three  of  the  Thousand 


-■— ™»«*wwTOW^S:^^S** 


•*•• 


the  left,  is 
ar,  or  Dark 
fter  passing 
)n  the  right 
ruter,  where 
te  resort  of 
)us  islands. 
:.,  and  make 

from  Chip- 
tree  miles  to 
adian  chan- 
e.  On  the 
miles  below 
picnics,  etc. 
or  six  miles 
ise  from  the 
foliage,  and 
m,  winding 
of  the  com- 
d  bays  that 
a  channel, 
:rs  again. 

s  the  wreck 
1  ore.  She 
3  drift  upon 
ised  by  the 
is  St.  Law- 
>,  especially 
now  at  the 
eC. 

Thousand 


Islands  ;  being  some  distance  from  the  rest  it  is  presumable 
they  drifted  away,  and  finally  rooted  here.  This,  however, 
was  "  long  befo'  de  wah  ! " 

Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Morristown,  a  small,  lively 
American  village,  of  about  i,ooo  inhabitants,  a  station  on 
the  Utica  and  Black  River  R.  R.;  connects  with  Brockville 
by  two  steam  ferries.  , 


This  is  a  picture  of  my  twin  brother.  Dr.  E.  F.  Babbage, 

of  Rochester,  N.  Y.     "  A  friend  in  need."     How  I  wish  I 

was  a  doctor. 

"  Phat  Boy." 


1'      ) 


IMIiWI 


60 


R 


OUTE 


'c; 


Our  object  being  to  make  this  little  book  a  complete 
Guide  to  the  Thousand  Islands  and  St.  Lawrence  River,  so 
that  tourists  from  any  section,  no  matter  where  they  strike, 
will  find  it  mtelligible  to  learn  their  location.  We  have  there- 
fore divided  the  explanation  into  three  routes  First,  we 
took  our  friends  from  New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  Lewis- 
ton,  Toronto,  Kingston  and  the  Canada  channel  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  as  far  as  Brockville.  Second,  our  journey  was 
from  Cape  Vincent,  thence  down  the  St.  Lawrence  through 
the  American  channel  to  Brockville.  Third,  and  this  is 
the  route  upon  which  we  are  now  entering,  will  be  from 
Cape  Vincent  to  Alexandria  Bay. 

CAPE  VINCENT, 

is  a  pleasant  little  village  in  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.,  at  the 
junction  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  river.  It  is 
also  the  terminus  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad,  and  connections  by  Steamer  St.  Lawrence  are 
made  to  Alexandria  Bay. 

As  we  steam  out  of  this  port,  on  the  left  is  Long,  or 
Wolf  Island,  21  miles  in  length,  and  7  miles  in  width.  The 
next  on  the  right  is 


w*<Bm?!lijBij^igii-,->IIUA-^/j.,,i 


I  complete 
;  River,  so 
hey  strike, 
lave  there- 
First,  we 
lis,  Lewis- 
of  the  St. 
>urney  was 
:e  through 
nd  this  is 
I  be  from 


v.,  at  the 
k'er.  It  is 
;densburg 
rence  are 

Long,  or 
ith.     The 


CARLETON  ISLAND. 

At  the  upper  extremity,  the  land  narrows  into  a  rugged 
promontory,  ending  in  a  bluflf  sixty  feet  in  height.  Here, 
lifting  their  ruined  heads  aloft,  and  plainly  visible  to  all 
passers  along  the  river,  stand  a  number  of  toppling  and 
half  ruined  chimneys.  These  may  be  seen  for  miles 
around.  So  long  have  these  old  sentinels  watched  over 
the  scenes  around  them  that  their  history  is  lost  in  the 
misty  past.  Around  them  are  the  remaining  ruins  of  an 
old  fort,  supposed  by  many  to  be  the  ruins  of  old  Fort 
Frontenac.  Around  its  old  redoubts  and  parapets  linger 
antiquated  historical  legends  and  traditions  enough  to  fill  a 
volume  and  forming  an  interesting^  study.  An  ancient 
well,  cut  in  the  solid  Trenton  limestone  down  to  the  level 
of  the  lake,  has  been  converted  by  the  reckless  imaginations 
of  the  natives  into  a  receptacle  of  the  golden  doubloons 
which  the  French  soldiers,  upon  evacuating  the  old  fort, 
are  said  to  have  thrown  there,  with  the  brass  guns  on  top 
of  them.  Upon  either  side,  and  immediately  in  front  of 
the  bluff  upon  which  the  old  fort  stands,  is  a  (}uiet,  pretty 
little  bay,  which  may  once  have  supplied  a  safe  and  easy 
anchorage  for  the  vessels  that  lay  under  its  protecting  guns. 

The  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  importance 
as  a  military  post  at  some  time,  having  been  built  upon  an 
excellent  plan  and  in  the  most  substantial  manner.  Num- 
bers of  (graves  still  occupy  a  field  near  by,  the  remains  of 
the  brave  soldiers  who  once  occupied  the  fort.  The  scene 
is  of  deep  interest  to  the  students  of  history. 

About  six  miles  this  side  of  Clayt  r.n  is  Lindsay  Island, 
the  only  one  on  the  right  between  Cape  Vincent  and  Clay- 


; 
III 


l^-"" 


ii 


«fl 


! 


! 


ton.  On  the  left,  two  miles  before  reaching  Clayton,  is 
Grindstone  Island,  five  miles  long.  Cross-over  channel  is 
where  the  Canadian  line  of  steamers,  leaving  Kingston  at  5 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  comes  through  into  the  American 
channel.  Before  landing  at  Clayton  is  Prospect  park  and 
hill,  which  has  been  systematically  laid  out  for  villas  and 
camping  parties,  and  where  tourists  can  always  find  a  com 
fortable  stopping  jilace.  Although  we  have  been  traveling 
among  the  islands  quite  early  in  the  morning,  we  have 
noticed  that  the  people  who  occupy  the  cottages  are  all  up, 
the  ladies  sitting  on  the  piazzas  reading,  generally,  and  the 
gentlemen  out  in  small  boats  fishing.  There  are  two  kinds 
of  fishing  done  here — nshing  for  fun  and  fishing  for  fish.  I 
cannot  explain  the  distinction  better  than  to  repeat  what  a 
g-'ntleman  who  was  traveling  with  the  party,  said  to  me  one 
afternoon  :  "  We  are  going  to  take  the  ladies  out  fishing 
to-morrow,"  he  Si»id  "to  give  thfn  a  taste  of  the  sport- 
Then,  the  next  ciay  we  are  gi..'ng  out  alone  tj  catch  some 
fish." 


"  DON'T  DO  IT. 


'Aj 


This  startling  he»u.'ue  vvhsn  it  strikes  the  eye  denotes 
that  there  is  somethinj  j  be  saif"  "f  personal  benefit  to  the 
reader  of  the  arlir'.c,  .ad  we  hci«^;  to  make  it  pleasant  as 
well  as  profitable  to  those  who  take  the  time  to  peruse  it. 
To  begin  with  we  desire  to  say,  don't  get  fat,  do  not  allow 
yourself  to  develop  beyond  the  line  which  is  laid  down  for 
the  average  man  or  woman  ;  because,  if  you  do,  the  average 
chair  will  not  fit,  the  average  seat  in  a  railroad  coach  will 
be  too  small,  you  will  be  obliged  to  shrink  into  it  and  then 
take  up  the  seat  of  another  after  you  get  in.  The  same 
trouble  will  occur  at  amusements,  which  yon   en;'./  very 


^«rrsissW'??? 


mmi 


Clayton,  is 
channel  is 

ingston  at  5 

le  American 
ect  park  and 
or  villas  and 

find  a  com 
;en  traveling 
ng,  we  have 
?s  are  all  up, 
ally,  and  the 
re  two  kinds 
[  for  fish.     I 
r>eat  what  a 
d  to  me  one 
s  out  fishing 
f  the  sport- 
catch  some 


eye  denotes 
tnefit  to  the 
pleasant  as 
o  peruse  it. 
o  not  allow 
id  down  for 
the  average 

coach  will 
it  and  then 

The  same 
enj'./  yery 


63 

much,  but  it  so  distorts  you  to  occupy  the  chair  that  the 
pleasure  is  lost ;  the  average  door  to  a  hack  is  too  small, 
and  so  is  the  omnibus,  and  you  are  obliged  to  walk.  Here 
you  will  enjoy  it,  especially  if  it  is  a  little  slippery,  dropping 
now  and  then  three  hundred  and  twenty  pounds  because 
your  friend  thinks  it  does  not  hurt  a  fat  man  to  fall.  You 
will  get  no  sympathy  from  anyone,  this  I  will  gurantee ; 
because  I  have  tried  it.  By  way  of  illustration,  if  I  had 
not  eaten  anything  for  three  days  but  a  yard  of  pump 
water,  and  was  to  come  to  a  friend  and  say  I  was  hungry, 
and  had  not  had  anything  to  eat  for  three  days,  he  would 
look  me  all  over  and  in  reply  would  say :  "  Well,  I  guess 
you  can  stand  it  until  next  fal!."  So  the  fleshier  you  are 
the  least  sympathy  you  get ;  and  if  Dr.  Tanner  stood  it  for 
forty  days  you  have  sufficient  fat  to  last  you  six  months,  to 
say  the  least.  Second,  you  become,  as  it  were,  a  curiosity 
and  all  look  at  you  with  amazement,  and  wonder  what 
circus  or  side  show  you  escaped  from,  or  to  what  dime 
museum  you  belong  to.  Third,  there  isn't  anything  made 
for  the  average  n-an  that  will  fit  you,  therefore,  everything 
must  be  made  to  order  that  you  wear,  except  a  necktie, 
pair  of  socks,  or  handkerchief.  The  latter  must  be  seven- 
eighths  to  a  yard  wide  in  order  to  hold  the  prespiration  it 
will  mop  up  in  once  passing  over  your  manly  brow.  Fourth, 
when  at  the  age  of  31,  and  weighing  225  pounds,  I  had  no 
trouble  in  making  a  selection  of  a  partner^  for  life.  She 
climbed  the  golden  stairs  about  three  years  ago,  and  now  I 
am  fair,  fat,  funny  and  forty.  If  I  find  one  now  who  loves 
a  fat  man,  I  am  a  little  too  fat— therefore,  this  world  is  a 
very  chilly  one  for  me. 

After  you  become  a  little  above  the  average  size  as  I 


t  1 


64 

have  in  development  and  are  conspicuous,  everybody  will 
know  you ;  if  they  do  not,  it  will  be  easy  for  them  to  find 
out,  all  they  are  obliged  It  do  is  10  ask  anyone.  You  wont 
know  only  those  of  your  relations  and  friends  very  near  to 
you.  Then  this  world  will  be  very  lonesome  and  cold,  or 
your  experience  will  be  different  from  mine.  It  would  be 
a  treat  (were  you  not  sensitive)  if  you  could  walk  one  block 
and  hear  the  expressions  that  come  from  the  vulgar  throng 
as  they  pass.  One  female,  with  eyes  like  two  saucers,  ex- 
claimed :  '•  Glory  be  to  the  father,  Mary  Ann  phwat's  that  ?  " 
And  another  say  "  Got  in  himmell,  what  a  fat  man,"  or  a 
lady  of  color  declare,  "  Umph  !  Umph ! !  Dat  am  de  big- 
gest man  I  ebber  seed." 

FROM  BROCKVILLE  TO  MONTREAL. 

Leaving  Brockville,  a  magnificent  view  greets  the  eye ; 
islands  are  not  now  in  view ;  the  river  is  a  most  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  running  perfectly  straight  for  about  sixteen 
miles  with  the  land  on  either  side  in  good  view,  for  the 
river  is  a  little  over  two  miles  wide.  Three  miles  from 
Morristown,  on  the  right,  is  a  camp  ground  of  the  Baptist 
persuasion,  mostly  from  St.  Lawrence  county.  Five  miles 
on  the  left  from  Brockville  is  Maitland.  At  this  point  is  a 
prominent  object  known  as  the  old  distillery,  whose  proprie- 
tor is  said  to  have  been  worth,  at  one  time,  a  million  dol- 
lars, but  whose  cupidity  during  "America's  unpleasantness" 
led  him  into  selling  "  crooked  whiskey,"  or  rather  disposing 
of  his  distillery  products  in  a  very  "  crooked  way."  With- 
out giving  the  details,  the  facts  in  brief  are :  He  antagon- 
ized the  Canadian  government  in  the  matter  of  paying 
revenue,  and  in  his  fight  for  stupid  supremacy,  he  not  only 


|?i 


'■WPilBWWi 


IS,  everybody  will 
for  them  to  find 
'One.     You  wont 
ids  very  near  to 
i»e  and  cold,  or 
le.     It  would  be 
1  walk  one  block 
le  vulgar  throng 
two  saucers,  ex- 
1  phwat's  that  ?  " 
a  fat  man,"  or  a 
Dat  am  de  big- 

»NTREAL. 

greets  the  eye ; 
L  most  beautiful 
r  about  sixteen 
3d  view,  for  the 
ree  miles  from 
1  of  the  Baptist 
ty.     Five  miles 

this  point  is  a 
,  whose  proprie- 
^  a  million  dol- 
npleasantness  " 
ather  disposing 
I  way."  With- 
He  antagon* 
ter  of  paying 
:y,  he  not  only 


•^f  4 


lost  his  distillery,  but  his  fortuiie,  too,  and  he  and  his 
family  became  reduced  to  poveity,  and  none  of  them  re- 
main around  their  former  home.  It  is  said  he  first  induced 
his  niece  to  marry  the  revenue  collector  of  the  district,  that 
he  might  carry  on  the  nefarious  business  in  collusion  and. 
without  detection,  but  you  see, 

''  The  deep  laid  plans  of  mice  and  men  gang  aft  aglee." 

About  four  miles  below,  on  the  left,  is  the  old  blue  stone 
church,  in  the  graveyard  of  which  rests  the  remains  of  the 
founder  of  Methodism  on  this  continent,  Barbara  Heck. 
One  mile  farther,  on  the  left,  is  McCarthy's  new  brick 
brewery.  Half  a  mile  beyond  is  the  celebrated  Rysdick 
stock  farm,  owned  by  Hon.  J.  P.  Wiser,  M.  P.  Here  is 
ov/ned  the  celebrated  stallion,  Rysdick,  which  cost  Mr. 
Wiser  $25,000.  It  is  a  farm  of  about  600  acres,  and  is 
unquestionably  the  finest  stock  farm  in  the  Dominion  of 
Canada.  The  thrift,  energy  and  ability  of  this  gentleman 
will  not  lie  wondered  at  when  it  is  learned  that  he  is  of 
American  birth.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  the  celebrated  La- 
batt's  brewery  and 

mM  '    pRESCOTT*'*'*'''-'""'^-''- 

with  its  3,000  inhabitants,  who  seem  to  have  lost  their  grip 
on  the  trade  of  the  river,  judging  from  the  dilapidated  con- 
dition of  the  stores,  warehouses,  etc.,  on  the  wharves.  The 
town,  however,  is  handsomely  laid  out,  has  a  fine  city  hall 
and  market,  and  there  are  many  fine  private  residences. 
It  is  connected  with  Ottawa,  capital  of  the  Dominion  by 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  distance  54  miles. 
Here  many  tourists  who  desire  to  visit  the  capital  disembark 
for  that  purpose.    We  refer  the  tourist  to  Daniel's  Hotel  as 


i^  I 


Hi 


ii«i 


66 


&  good  stopping  place.  L.  H.  Daniels  has  taken  the  hotel, 
and  spent  t8,ooo  in  improvements  ;  he  is  too  well  known 
to  the  traveling  public  to  need  any  praise  from  me.  Oppo- 
site is 

-4^  ^.   OGDENSBURG, 

founded  by  Francis  Picquit  in  May,  1749.  I*  now  contains 
about  10,000  people,  and  of  course  ranks  as  a  city.  It  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Rome  and  Watertown,  Utica  and  Black 
River,  and  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain  railroads. 
It  is  beautifully  laid  out,  well  planted  with  maple  trees,  and 
is  called  the  "  Maple  City."  It  has  a  United  States  Cus- 
tom House,  post-office,  and  a  new  opera  house,  costing 
$150,000,  six  fine  church  edifices,  water  works,  gas  works, 
a  fire  alarm  telegraph  and  two  daily  newspapers,  and  possi- 
bly other  modem  improvements.  At  the  lower  end  of  town 
is  the  big  elevator  of  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain 
Railroad.        v;_ ;{; v,x-<j^-fi^i,  :i.;; 

One  mile  and  a  half  below  Prescott,  on  the  left,  is  Wind- 
mill point ;  the  old  windmill  has  been  turned  into  a  light- 
house. Here,  in  1837,  the  "  Patriots,"  under  Von  Shuhz 
a  Polish  exile,  established  themselves,  but  from  which  they 
were  driven  with  severe  loss.  We  believe  this  Von  Shultz 
was  subsequently  hung  by  the  Canadian  authorities,  and 
his  followers  banished,  probably  co  New  Jersey.  On  the 
left,  a  little  below  the  light-house,  is  the  residence  and  farm 
of  W.  H.  McGannon,  the  oldest  pilot  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
river,  the  man  who  first  took  the  Passport  of  the  Richelieu 
line  down  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  in  July,  1847.  I  am 
also  indebted  to  him  for  the  correctness  of  my  New  Map  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  other  information  of  benefit  to  me 
and  the  public. 


[TjMimMIMKi 


;n  the  hotel, 
well  known 
|nif.     Oppo- 


ow  contains 
city.     It  is 
a  and  Black 
in  railroads, 
e  trees,  and 
States  Cus- 
Jse,  costing 
,  gas  works, 
I  and  possi- 
-nd  of  town 
Champlain 

ft,  is  Wind- 
nto  a  light- 
>'^on  Shultz 
vhich  they 
^on  Shiiltz 
"ties,  and 
On   the 
!  and  farm 
Lawrence 
Richeheu 
7-     I  an» 
w  Map  of 
fit  to  me 


i 


.. 


67 

Three  miles  below,  on  the  left,  is  Johnstown  Bay,  with 
Johnstown — not  a  very  important  trading  post — overlook- 
ing. This  place  has  a  custom  house  officer,  commissioner 
of  fisheries,  mayor  and  marshal  of  the  district ;  but  these 
important  officials  are  concentrated  in  one  man. 

We  turn  here  to  the  right,  leaving  the  far-famed  chim- 
ney island  on  the  left,  on  which  are  said  to  be  the  ruins  of 
old  French  forts,  battlements,  etc.  The  only  remains  we 
have  discovered  of  these  supposed  formidable  defences  is  an 
extensive  moat  around  the  island,  twelve  feet  deep,  filled 
with  water.  The  chimney,  from  which  it  derives  its  name, 
is  supposed  to  be  on  the  island,  but  we  have  looked  in  vain 
to  discover  it.  It  may  be,  however,  that  it  has  floated  down 
the  river ;  we  will  speak  of  it  furthei  on. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left,  are  Tick,  or  Pier  islands. 
Some  of  the  finest  bass  fishing  in  the  river  is  off  this  old 
pier.  Dr.  Melville,  of  Prescott,  the  inventor  of  rheumatic 
victor,  and  an  enthusiastic  fisherman  of  this  section,  last 
summer  caught  a  black  bass  weighing  seven  and  one-half 
pounds  while  enjoying  the  sport  around  the  pier. 

Three  miles  from  Chimney  island  in  the  distance,  is  what 
is  termed  "  the  cut,"  f  '•ming  the  channel  between  Galop 
and  Moore's  islands,  it  was  the  former  channel  of  this 
line  of  boats,  but  the  Dominion  go\  'ment  are  expending 
six  millions  of  dollars  for  the  enlargi.  .lent  of  the  canals  of 
this  route,  and  the  survey  party  at  present  are  blasting  a 
channel  through  the 

GALOP  RAPID, 

which  may  be  seen  in  the  distance.     The  reason  of  the 
change  of  channel  is  formed  with  an  edict  of  the  pilots  not 


to  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  engineer  corps  engaged  on 
this  necessary  ii  jprovement  of  excavating  a  fifteen  foot 
channel,  to  allow  larger  boats  to  pass,  and  dispense  with 
the  use  of  the  E-'wardsburg  canal.  This  is  the  first  and 
smallest  rapid  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  as  the  Phat 
Boy  has  termed  it,  "  a  little  one  for  a  cent."  I  will,  how- 
ever, give  you  an  idea  of  what  the  rapids  are.  AU  the 
rapids  on  this  river  are  caused  by  numerous  rocks,  large  and 
small,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  the  swift  current  of  water 
passing  over  these  rocks  causes  the  fearful  commotion  that 
you  observe.  Now,  to  carry  our  philosophy  a  little  farther, 
we  say  the  larger  the  rocks  and  the  stronger  the  current, 
the  better  the  rapids.  No  rockn,  no  water,  no  current,  no 
rapids  !  This  commotion  which  you  see  here  is  caused  by 
a  led^e  of  rocks  five  and  one-half  feet  in  height  under  nine 
feet  of  water.  You  can  see  the  swell  and  white  cap  which 
this  rock  occasions,  and  then  use  your  best  judgement  to 
determine  the  height  of  the  rocks  in  Long  Sault,  where  we 
hope  to  arrive  at  one  o'clock.  (There  are,  let  me  state 
here,  eight  rapids  on  our  trip  to-day,  which  may  be  divided 
into  two  classes,  first  and  second.  The  first  class  are  Long 
Sault,  meaning  a  long  leap  or  jump ;  Cedar,  deriving  its 
name  from  the  trees  in  the  vicinity,  and  Lachine.  The 
second  class  are  Galop,  meaning  a  hopping,  jumping  rapid ; 
Rapid  Piatt,  meaning  in  French,  flat;  Chateau  du  Lac, 
meaning  foot  of  the  lake ;  Split  Rock,  derived  from  a  fis- 
sure which  make  the  channel,  and  the  Cascade,  from  its  re- 
semblance to  a  cascade).  , . ;;  ^ 

On  the  left,  before  arriving  at  the  Galop  rapids,  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  This  canal  is  seven 
and  one-half  miles  in  length,  and  is  the  finest  canal  we  ar- 


assm 


engaged  on 
fifteen  foot 
ipense  with 
le  first  and 
as  the  Phat 
I  will,  how- 
AU  the 
s,  large  and 
5nt  of  water 
motion  that 
ttle  farther, 
:he  current, 
current,  no 
i  caused  by 
under  nine 
s  cap  which 
igement  to 
,  where  we 
it  me  state 
be  divided 
s  are  Long 
leriving  its 
line.     The 
'ing  rapid ; 
1  du  Lac, 
Tom  a  fis- 
rom  its  re- 
ds, is  the 
1  is  seven 
lal  we  ar- 


^l> 


69 

rive  at ;  its  terminus  is  at  Iroquois.  It  would  be  well  here 
to  say  that  we  only  have  canals  around  the  rapids,  or  where 
the  current  is  too  strong  for  a  steamer  to  ascend.  We  here 
append  a  tabular  statement  of  the 

ST.  LAWRENCE  CANALS. 

Edwardsburg  canal,  7^  miles  long,  three  locks,  1 4  feet 
fall  in  the  river ;  Morrisburg  canal,  4  miles  long,  2  locks, 
II  1-6  feet  fall ;  Farron's  Point  canal,  |  miles  long,  i  lock, 
4  feet  fall ;  Cornwall  canal,  1 2  miles  long,  7  locks,  48  feet 
fall ;  Beauhamor's  canal,  1 1^  miles  long,  9  locks,  84  feet 
fall ;  Lachine  canal,  9  miles  long,  5  locks,  45  feet  fall. 

In  the  distance  in  front,  on  the  left  is  the  village  of  Ed- 
wardsburg, now  called  Cardinal.  Here  is  located  the  Ed- 
wardsburg starch  factory  the  largest  starch  factory  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada.  The  president  of  the  company  is 
the  Hon.  Walter  Shanley,  of  Hoosac  Tunnel  fame.  He 
was  the  great  contractor  who  completed  that  wonderful 
piece  of  work,  and  is  now  the  manager  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  Ottawa  Raih-oad. 

Twenty  minutes  from  Edwardsburg  to  the  next  point  of 
interest. 

WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  ELI  PERKINS. 

Some  few  years  ago,  Mr.  Perkins  was  a  passenger  on  one 
of  the  boats.  I  do  not  know  whether  he  took  me  for  the 
captain,  director  or  manager  of  the  line  or  not,  but  he  ex- 
erted himself  considerably  to  form  my  acquaintance. 
There  was  nothing  unusual  about  that,  however,  as  there  is 


70 

something  "  distingue  "  about  me,  and  when  on  the  boat  I 
stand  considerably  "  above  proof."  I  have  frequently  dined 
at  the  same  table  with  the  Governor-General,  Lord  Dufferin 
and  retinue — after  his  lordship  had  left.  But  to  return  to 
Eli.  The  day  in  question  I  was  upon  the  deck  of  the  boat 
as  usual,  describing  the  points  of  interest,  especially  the  one 
on  the  Canadian  shore,  where  the  St.  Regis  Indians  come 
year  after  year  to  gather  the  famous  elm  with  which  to  make 
their  celebrated  baskets.  I  was  delineating  at  some  length 
upon  the  noble  red-man,  when  Eli  ciime  to  me  and  said,  I 
will  write  you  a  verse  of  poetry  about  that.  Glad  to  get  a 
memento  in  that  shape  from  so  distinguished  an  individual, 
who  had  been  so  often  accused  of  being  witty,  I  said  it 
would  please  me  very  much.     Here  is  the  verse : 

"  Onoe  here  the  noble  red  man  took  Ur  deligbu. 
Fit,  flshed  and  bled; 
Now  most  of  the  inbabitante  are  white, 
With  nary  a  red." 

I  thanked  him  very  profusely,  and  on  subsequent  occa- 
sions took  great  delight  in  repeating  the  lines  to  the  pas- 
sengers— never  forgetting  for  a  moment  to  remind  them 
that  they  were  written  for  me  by  the  alleged  American 
humorist.  One  day,  after  deUvering  myself  of  the  poetry 
and  repeating  to  the  passengers  that  it  was  written  by  the 
celebrated  poet,  writer,  humorist  and  lecturer,  Eli  Perkins, 
I  was  approached  by  an  exceedingly  polite  an  affable  gen- 
tleman, whom  I  learned  was  Mr.  John  H.  Rochester,  of 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  who  asked  if  he  understood  me  correctly 
in  attributing  the  authorship  of  the  hnes  quoted  to  Mr. 
Perkins.  I  assured  him  that  he  had  written  them  expressly 
for  me,  and  produced  i"  Eli's  own  handwriting  the  original 
copy.     With  a  subdued  smile  resting  upon  his  counten- 


mim 


wm» 


Wsei 


mm 


the  boat  I 
>ently  dined 

rd  Dufferin 
o  return  to 
of  the  boat 
illy  the  one 
dians  corae 
ich  to  make 
ome  length 
and  said,  I 
ul  to  get  a 
individual, 
i,  I  said  it 


uent  occa- 
o  the  pas- 
nind  them 
American 
the  poetry 
ten  by  the 
li  Perkins, 
fable  gen- 
:hester,  of 
;  correctly 
d  to  Mr. 
expressly 
e  original 
counten- 


iMmm 


11 


ance,  Mr.  Rochester  informed  me  that  there  must  be  an 
error  somewhere,  as  a  gentleman,  a  Mr.  Fletcher,  had  writ- 
ten a  poem  in  1834,  in  whica  xhi',  exact  verse  occurred,  and 
he  proceeded  to  repeat  the  verse  ix^M  memory.     This  took 
me  slightly  back,  and  I  subsequently  came  to  the  conclu* 
sion  with  "  my  friend  "  of  the  Oil  City  Derrick,  that  a  cab- 
bage leaf  was  never  more  at  home  than  when  in  the  crown 
of  "  Uli  Perkins'  hat."     After  that  I  had  no  more  use  for  the 
poem,  but  determined  if  ever  I  met  "  Uli "  I  should  caU  to 
his  mind  the  circumstances  connected  with  "  his  little  poem." 
I  had  not  long  to  wait,  for  one  day,  while  in  Evansville,  In- 
diana, at  the  St.  George  Hotel,  I  met  the  gentleman  and 
recalled  the  circumstance  connected  with  the  little  verse, 
and  he,  witii  a  perfect  air  of  noi\chaiance,  said  that  he  had 
never  given  it  a  thought  since — dashed  it  off  in  a  minute. 
I  told  him  how  remarkable  it  was  that  great  minds  often 
run  in  the  same  channel  and  related  iXiy  experience  with 
liis  gem.     He  scowled,  and  turning  on  his  heel  said  it  was 
indeed  a  singular  word  for  word  resemblance,  but  changed 
the  subject  at  once  and  asked  me  to  his  room  on  the  fol- 
lowing   morning,  which  invitation    I  cheerfully  accepted, 
doting  all  the  evening  upon  having  a  nice  time,  and  swop- 
ping a  few  gags,  etc.,  etc.,  but  my  hopes  were  blighted,  for 
the  next  morning  I  was  informed  of  his  very  early  departure 
— gone  up  to  lie  to  the  people  of  Rockport,  I  was  told. 
"  Uli "  is  a  great  man,  and  contracts  a  larger  amount  of 
business  upon  a  very  small  amount  of  capital  than  any  pub- 
lic character  I  know  of.     When  Eli  reads  this  I  expect  he 
will  load  his  big  gun — not  intellectual,  but   otherwise — 
and  come  for  me.     I  will  therefore  give  him  a  pointer  in 
advance ;  there  won't  anything  scare  roe  but  a  stomach 
pump. 


I  " 


7» 

Distinguished  among  Indian  names  is  that  of  Iroquois. 
Here  it  names  a  village,  formerly  known  as  Matilda,  but 
like  all  other  good  Matildas  do,  she  changed  her  name  to 
Iroquois,  in  order  to  preserve  the  name.  The  Iroquois  In- 
dians formerly  owned  this  section  of  country.  One  and 
a  half  miles  below  this  village  is  the  narrowest  point  in  the 
St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Kingston  to  the  gulf  This  broad 
expanse  of  water  we  are  just  passing,  and  the  one  we  ar- 
rive at  immediately  after  l^avng  the  point,  are  very  shallow, 
consequently  hold  the  witer  in  check  at  the  point.  The 
depth  of  water  in  the  shallow  places  being  about  22  feet, 
while  at  the  point  it  is  84  feet.  Width  of  the  river  1,140 
feet — 170  feet  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

On  the  right  in  the  narrowest  portion  of  the  river  is  Cedar 
point.  On  the  left  is  a  small  bluff,  formerly  called  Hem- 
lock point,  on  account  of  a  fine  hemlock  standing  there, 
but  on  one  fine  morning  the  hemlock,  the  tree  and  the 
point  all  slid  into  the  river,  and  have  not  yet  returned. 
About  fifteen  feet  back  from  the  point  is  a  rail  fence,  which 
is  outside  of  the  earth  works  that  were  thrown  up  in  1812-13, 
and  batteries  were  erected  on  Cedar  point. 

On  the  left  is  the  main  shore  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada 
with  a  population  of  over  five  millions.  On  the  right  is  the 
main  shore  of  the  United  States  of  America  with  a  popu- 
lation of  over  fifty  millions.  When  the  five  millions  want 
those  fifty  millions  all  they  will  be  obliged  to  do  is  to  walk 
over  and  take  them.  Then  will  be  verified  that  beautiful 
passage  in  Holy  Writ  which  says,  "  One  shall  chase  a  thou- 
sand and  two  put  ten  thousand  to  flight.     Sing  ! " 

This  was  really  a  strong  point,  and  was  fortified  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  by  the  opposing  parties.     From  the  fact 


a 


MH.iyT'TKfmiJ'T^ ; 


of  Iroquois. 
*latilda,  but 
er  name  to 
Iroquois  In- 
One  and 
point  in  the 
This  broad 
one  we  ar- 
-ery  shallow, 
>oint.     The 
)ut  22  feet, 
river  1,140 

ver  is  Cedar 
ailed  Hem- 
iding  there, 
ee  and  the 
t  returned, 
ence,  which 
n 1812-T3, 

of  Canada 
right  is  the 
th  a  popu- 
lions  want 
is  to  walk 
t  beautiful 
ise  a  thou- 

J  on  both 
n  the  fact 


, 


73 

of  the  successful  fortifications  by  the  Americans  the  Rideau 
canal  owes  its  origin.  Guns,  and  stores  or  merchandise 
could  not  be  taken  up  the  river.  It  was  conceived  by  Col- 
onel By,  of  the  Engineer  corps,  that  a  new  canal  would  ob- 
viate the  difficulty,  and  all  his  resources  were  immediately 
put  into  requisition  and  the  canal  was  completed  at  a  cost 
of  $5,000,000.  It  extends  from  Ottawa,  formerly  By-town 
to  Kingston,  and  is  still  in  use. 

Ten  minutes  from  here  to  the  next  point  of  interest.  On 
the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Morrisburg  canal,  the  second 
canal  in  the  chain,  but  is  not  used  by  this  line  of  boats. 
All  tows  and  sailing  vessels  have  to  use  the  canal.  In  the 
distance  front  is  Rapid  Piatt ;  on  the  right  is  Ogden's  Is- 
land, the  finest  wooded  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 
Beyond  is  Waddington,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  Y.  In 
front  is  this  rapid  we  have  just  named  ;  it  is  the  second  one 
and  is  a  "  little  one  for  two  cents."  It  has,  however,  eight 
feet  more  descent  than  the  first,  but  is  only  a  one  cent  Je- 
scenter  rapid. 

MORRISBURG. 

After  passing  the  point,  Morrisburg  comes  into  view  on 
the  left,  the  prettiest  village  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
Look  at  its  churches,  public  buildings,  private  residences, 
and  hotels,  (the  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  kept  by  W.  H.  Mc- 
Gannon  and  Brother,  and  I  can  say  cheerfully  no  better 
hotel  in  town),  which  line  the  banks,  for  we  are  still  in  the 
Province  of  Ontario.  At  half-past  three  o'clock,  will  enter 
the  Province  of  Quebec.  You  will  have  a  good  chance  then 
to  compare  the  difference  between  the  two  provinces. 
Your  especial  attention  is  called  to  this  now,  that  you  may 


74 

be  prepared  to  scan  the  change  you  will  not  fail  to  observe. 
Before  reaching  Morrisburg  is  Doran's  Island,  whirl'  was 
renter!  by  Mr.  Oz.  Doran,  of  the  St.  Regis  Indians,  for  one 
dollar  i)er  year,  and  they  come  every  year,  60  miles  to  col- 
lect one  dollar.  Opposite  Morrisburg  i.s  Dry  Island,  used 
for  picnics,  etc.        ,  ^^  .^. .  :^  ^^: 

One  hour  from  this  point  to  the  Long  Sault  Rapids.  We 
speak  of  this  here,  for  it  is  about  dinnner  time,  and  if  you 
are  lucky  enough  to  secure  a  scat  at  the  first  table  you  will 
lose  no  point  of  interest,  for  it  is  presumable  you  will  finish 
within  the  hour. 

THE  CUISINE  ON  THE  BOAT. 

It  would  not  be  amiss  \h  to  state  that  the  meals  were 
formerly  served  on  th  i  American  plan,  and  to  give  you  but 
a  faint  idea  of  the  commotion  created  by  the  passengers 
when  there  was  one  more  person  on  board  than  seats  at  the 
table,  would  require  a  volume  ten  times  this  size  to  describe. 
Therefore  please  excuse  me  if  I  relate  by  way  of  an  illus 
tration  what  an  eminent  French  writer  said  on  the  subject : 
*'  The  waiters,  like  little  poppets,  would  bob  up  serenely  at 
any  time  and  ])ln.ce,  drop  a  dish  or  whatever  the  hand  con 
tained,  and  was  as  soon  out  of  sight.  This  continued  for 
about  one  hour,  while  we  were  seated  b,H-k  against  the  cabin 
wall,  with  just  space  enough  for  the  waiter  to  pass  between 
us  and  the  table.  When  the  signal  was  given  everybody 
made  a  rush  for  the  table,  and  if  the  scei  ^  depicted  could 
only  be  described  humorcftisly  or  otherwise,  I  would  like  to 
read  it."  But  the  writer  said  it  reminded  him  of  the  famous 
picture  in  her  Majesty's  gallery.  "  The  Rape  of  the  Sa- 
bines.''     (I  have  never  seen  that  picture,  but  presume  it  is 


mfHtUt 


observe. 
Iwhirl  vvas 
IS,  for  one 
les  to  col- 
and,  used 

pids.  We 
ind  if  you 
le  you  will 
will  finish 


r. 

leals  were 
B  you  but 
'assengers 
ats  at  the 
describe. 
"  an  illus 
■  subject  : 
Jrenely  at 
land  con 
inued  for 
the  cabin 
bet  wet  I 
erybody 
!d  could 
1  like  to 
'  famous 
the  Sa- 
me it  is 


i: 


I 


75 

that  of  a  l)cautiful  female  poise'  \%  a  central  figure,  and 
about  ten  soldii  s  ready  to  embrace  her  on  a  given  signal.) 
Things  have  changed,  however,  and  this  season  the  meals 
will  be  served  on  the  American  plan,  run  by  the  Company, 
who  have  secured  the  best  stewards,  etc.,  to  superintend  the 
service  to  the  end,  that  everyoi  maybe  pleased.  The  up- 
per saloon  will  not  be  used,  but  what  was  formerly  known 
as  the  ladies'  cabin  will  be  the  dining-roorn,  which  gives  the 
whole  saloon  as  a  promenade  and  place  of  repose  and  rest 
for  the  passengers  I  am  pcv,itiv<  the  change  will  be  ac- 
ceptable. .  J,,   :       •■i-ii;';    ni  . 

About  .1  mile  below  M(  Tisburg,  on  the  right,  is  Goose- 
neck Island,  so  called  from  ,:h  resemblance  tu  the  neck  of  a 
goose ;  the  upper  end  is  the  nerk ;  the  narrative  is  about 
nine  miles  long.     Five  miles  from  Morrisburg  to 

CHRYSLERS'  FARM, 

memorable  for  the  battle  fough:  on  this  ground  in  the  year 
1813.  The  Americans  were  the  attacking  party  on  this  oc- 
casion, having  arose  early  in  the  morning,  crossed  the  river 
into  the  Httle  bay,  landed,  and  immediately  went  into  the 
contest  by  attacking  the  little  house.  The  fight  was  des- 
perate, lasting  until  eleven  o'clock,  when  the  Americans, 
under  General  Williams,  were  repulsed  with  great  slaughter. 
The  house  was  completely  riddled  with  bullets.  It  has  since 
been  torn  down,  and  the  <  Inmuey  left  as  a  monument  to  the 
battle.  They  retreated  in  good  order,  re-crossed  the  river, 
and  remained,  having  abandoned  the  trip  to  Montreal, 
which  they  intended.  I  draw  this  mild,  because  I  am  one 
of  "  God''}  people  "  myself. 

Next  in  interest  is  Farron's  point,  opposite  which  is  Croyl's 
Island.  Six  minutes  from  here  to  Long  Sault  Rapids,  we 
pass  on  the  left  Harrison's  landing. 


A' 


ri.S 


76 

LONG  SAULT  ISLAND. 

At  this  point  there  are  really  two  channels,  the  American 
channel  being  on  the  right  of  Long  Sault  Island,  the  rapids 
forming  the  Canadian  channel,  and  are  on  the  left  of  the 
island.  The  distinguishing  feature  about  the  American 
channel  is  while  it  is  swift  in  current,  it  has  no  rapids  worthy 
of  note,  and  the  channel  is  used  for  tows,  etc.,  and  all  the 
rafts  naturally  prefer  this  way,  because  it  would  be  impos- 
sible for  them  to  go  down  the  Long  Sault. 

In  the  distant  front  observe  the  light-house  at  the  head  of 
the  Cornwall  canal,  twelve  miles  in  length,  that  passes 
around  the  Long  Sault  Rapids. 

The  boats  are  steered  from  landmarks  on  shore  ;  by  that 
small  ball  you  see  on  the  end  of  the  pole,  which  is  the  bow- 
sprit. The  target  that  you  see  in  the  distance  is  used  by 
the  pilot  to  get  his  iK)sition  in  Long  Sault  Rapids.  These 
targets  will  be  seen  frequently  as  you  progress,  and  as  they 
all  answer  the  same  purpose,  this  reference  to  them  will 
suffice. 

*  LONG  SAULT  RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's  Landing  on  the  left  was  formerly  a  very  im- 
portant point  on  this  line,  as  it  was  the  foot  of  navigation 
before  the  canal  was  completed  some  forty  years  ago.  Few 
changes  have  taken  place  since,  that  are  apparent  to  the 
eye.  The  Long  Sault  is  the  first  one  of  the  first-class  rapids, 
and  the  third  one  in  line  proceeding  down  the  river,  and  as 
we  set  a  price  on  the  other  two,  you  can  set  your  own  price 
on  this  one.  A  description  of  these  rapids  has  been  given 
from  time  immemorial ;  it  does  not  behoove  us  to  gne  any 
graphic  or  colored  description  of  this  .scene,  although  we 
might  do   so  satisfactorily,   having  seen   depicted   on  the 


V  / 


■^hMm 


i^T 


11 


American 
the  rapids 
left  of  the 
American 
)ids  worrhy 
and  all  the 
be  impos- 

the  head  of 
hat  passes 

by  that 
is  the  bow- 
is  used  by 
Is.  These 
nd  as  they 
them  will 


I  very  im- 
lavigation 
go.    Few 
!nt  to  the 
ss  rapids, 
r,  and  as 
wn  price 
en  given 
g'\e  any 
ough  we 
on  the 


countenances  of  thousands  of  passengers  who  have  passed 
thiH  way  every  thing  in  nature  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridi- 
culous as  Vt'.  il  IS  between  the  two,  and  as  each  individual's 
feelings  tlitfcr,  no  one  description  would  do  the  subject  jus- 
tice. One  writer  .aid,  "  it  was  like  sliding  down  hill  on  a 
steamboat  "  Anoi  iier  said  he  felt  as  if  he  was  being  unglued t 
A  third  uaid  he  felt  as  if  he  had  taken  a  large  dose  of  epecac 
Still  anotli'T  as  if  he  was  on  a  ship  at  sea  in  a  storm. 
And  yet  one  nore  was  so  exhilerated  that  he  imagined  he 
owned  Maud  S.  and  would  like  to  spend  his  days  on  the 
rapids.  Another  party  who  had  ridiculed  the  trip  "<  good 
deal,  until  the  sjiray  began  to  cover  the  deck,  wettiig  thom 
to  the  skin,  drenching  their  store  clothes,  which,  when  dried, 
revealed  awkward  misfits,  exclaimed  that  "  it  was  the  grand- 
est sight  they  had  ever  witnessed."        ,  »'|-  k    »   j;  i? 

I  could  enlarge  upon  other  descriptions,  but  prefer  to  give 
the  Phat  Boy  a  privilege  to  relate  a  few  facts — no  "  taffy." 
All  the  boats  of  this  line  are  built  of  Bessemer  steel  or  iron, 
with  three  and  one-half  inches  of  elm  riveted  close  to  the 
iron  on  the  bottom  outside  to  prevent  accidents  if  we  should 
strike  against  a  rock.  This  precaution  was  found  necessary, 
because  the  first  iron  boat  that  struck  a  rock  became  a  total 
wreck.  With  the  protection  of^lm  no  injury  has  resulted 
from  the  occasional  striking  of  the  boats  against  the  rocks. 
There  is  no  danger,  however,  in  this  rapid,  for  the  water  in 
the  shallowest  place  is  thirteen  and  one-half  feet,  and  we 
are  drawing  about  seven  feet.  During  our  passage  through 
all  the  rapids,  we  have  four  men  at  the  wheel,  and  four  men 
at  the  tiller  aft,  who  assist  the  men  at  the  wheel.  Any  ac- 
cident that  should  happen  to  the  chain  or  the  wheel,  the 
pilot  immediately  goes  to  the  right  hand  of  the  tiller. 


■^i  1  HI 


I 


MUTUAL  ASSOCIATION 

$10,000  Held  in  Trust  for  thit  Association  by  Prov.  Oovernmeit. 


Jtuorporated  C.  S.  of  Canada,  Chap.  7/  atid  Amendments. 


•j-ifiy^r^ 


Pre»iderU ; 
A.  L.  De  Maetigny,  Esq.,  Caohier  •lacquee-Cartier  Bank. 

Viee-Pretidentg  : 

Hon.    L.    R    Church,    Q.    C,    Commissioner    of   Crown   Lands, 

Quebec,  P.  Q. 
Benj.  Globknsky,  Eg<i.,  Q.  C. 

L.  H.  Massue,  M.  p.,  President  Board  of  Agriculture  for  Province 

of  Quebec. 
John  L.  Cassidy,  Esq.,  Wliolesale  Merchant. 
J.  McIntyke,  Esq.,  Merchant. 
M.  BaBv^ock,  Ek].,  Manufacturer. 

Dr.  W.  W.  Ogden,  Toronto.  v-;^  i::;l^''k(:i!f' !■'-'■  .^^(Y- !*■;  ,  ■ 

Arthur  Gaonon,  Esq.  ■      .  ,   .=  ,, 

John  Hopper,  Esq.  \  ■•^^i  ■":'.  ^V;i\^t:p;r:  i/r>j  c;;^-'-v;;  -.h'.f 

J.  J.  Gusrin,  Esq.,  M.  D.  -i-v^.^v?^ 


Hon.  Alex.  Lacoste,  Q.  C,  M.  L.  C, 
Arthur  Gagnon,  ... 

John  Hopper,  .... 

Dr.  J.  J.  GuERiN,  * 


f:    Legal  Adviser. 

;■*  Treaturer. 

Manager, 

Medical  Director. 


Section  11.— Assembly  Bill  139.  passed  March  80th,  1888.  "  The  Provident 
Mutual  Association  of  Canada  snail  be  deemed  to  be  an  Association  duly 
formed  under  the  said  chapter  71  of  the  Consolidated  Statutes  of  Canada. 

Reserve  fund  to  be  invested  in  Dominion  Bonds  and  deposited  In  trust  wiUi 
the  Provincial  Treasurer. 


GENERAL  OFFICE: 

1 62  St.  James  St.,  MONTREAL,  P.  Q. 

InIONTREAL   OFFICE: 

No.  4  Barron  Block,  JOHN  HOPPER,  Manager. 


i 


mm^. 


ATION 

'rov.  eovernoiKit 

'/</  Atnendments. 


Cartier  Bank. 
of   Crown   Lands, 

ilture  for  Province 


•  ••  ■  ■  -*'  w  -1 


Legal  Adviser. 

Treaturer. 

Manager. 

Medical  Director. 

I  "  The  Provident 
in  Aasociatlon  dulr 
Statutes  of  Canadft. 
oslted  in  truit  with 


lEAL,  P.  Q. 
li  Manager. 


i 


79 

The  Long  Sault  rapid  is  nine  miles  in  length ;  three  miles 
of  boisterous  commotion ;  six  miles  of  current  and  sudden, 
sharp  turns.  When  we  first  enter  the  rapid,  the  steam  on 
board  of  the  boat  is  slowed  down  until  she  gets  her  position 
in  the  rapids,  as  she  draws  less  water  than  when  under  full 
head  of  steam.  We  are  then  compelled  to  put  on  full  steam 
as  the  boat  must  go  faster  than  the  current  in  urder  to  ob- 
tain steerage  way.  Many  suppose  that  no  steam  is  used 
through  the  rapids,  which  is  an  error.  If  we  were  to  at- 
tempt to  go  down  without  any  propelling  power,  we  would 
be  at  the  mercy  of  the  current  of  this  stupendous  agitation 
called  rapids.  One  couldn't  tell  which  end  of  the  boat 
would  be  first,  and  it  is  presumable  that  this  would  be  any- 
thing but  pleasant  to  the  passenger,  for  we  would  go  down 
the  same  as  a  log,  no  one  could  tell  which  end  of  the  boat 
would  be  first,  anything  but  pleasure  to  passengers. 

When  we  first  enter  this  rapid,  the  finest  view  is  obtained 
on  the  right  side  of  the  boat.  It  is  expected,  however,  that 
the  passengers  will  distribute  themselves  equally  on  either 
side  to  keep  the  boat  in  good  trim ;  the  Captain  generally 
uses  the  "  Phat  Boy  "  for  this  purpose ;  when  he  is  not  on 
board,  the  passengers  are  expected  to  distribute  themselves. 
The  view,  however,  soon  changes  to  the  left,  and  when 
Hearing  the  point  the  swell  and  white  caps  run  from  seven 
to  eleven  feet  in  height. 

We  have  already  explained  the  causes  of  the  rapids. 
Now,  will  any  one  please  explain  to  me  what  is  the  height 
of  the  rocks  which  create  this  commotion,  and  at  the  same 
time  set  their  price  on  this  rapid.  After  passing  this  point 
and  the  swell  and  white  caps  that  we  have  been  describing^ 
on  the  left  is  the  passage  to  the  Canadian  channel  of  this 
river,  which  forms  Bamhardt's  island.     On  the  right  is  the 


■Pi 


[in 


J  HI. 


80 

A  RECORD  WITHOUT  A  PARALLEL. 


M'JTUAL  RESERVE  FUND  LIFE  ASSOCIATION, 

"     BRYANT    BUILDING, 
55    LIBERTY   STREET,    NEW    YORK. 


INCORPORATED   UNDER   THE  LAM-^S  OF  THE  STATE 
OF   NEW   YORK. 


31,423  Total  Membership  Nuinlier,  May  1st,  1885. 

$315, 019. G3  Amount  of  Reserve  Fund,  May  Ist,  1885,  of 
which  $250,000.00  is  invested  in  U.  &  Bonds. 

$100,000,00  DeiKBited  with  the  Insurance  De(>artment  of 

the  State, 

$200,000,00  Daily  Average  New  Business,    v^^v  ^if 

$420,000.00  Assets,  May  Ist,  1885.         ,         X,    Ip  '/ 

$1,000, 5  7 0.00  Losses  Paid. 

$12Q,900,000.00 

Total   Business  written   since  date  of  Organization. 


THE  CENTRAL  TRUST  COMPANY  OF  NEW  YORK. 

TRUSTEE   OF  THE    RESERVE   FUND. 


E.  B.  HARPER,  President 

N.  VV.  BL08S,  2d  Vice  President. 

G.  F.  POTTER,  3d  Vice  President. 
C.R.  BISSELL,  Treasurer. 

F.  T.  BRAMAN,  Secretary. 

J.  M.  STEVENSON,  Ass't.  Sw. 

J.  W.  BOWDEN,  Med.  Director. 
JOHN  HOPPER,  Managr  ,  .viontreal. 


-/ 


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8i 

American  channel.  This  was  formerly  used  by  boats 
before  they  came  down  the  Long  Sault,  which  foi  a  long 
time  was  known  as  the  lost  channel.  This  channel  having 
been  lost  for  some  years,  it  was  discovered  by  Captain 
Raukiii,  who  received  for  that  sendee  a  magnificent  silver 
watch,  the  value  of  which  at  the  present  day  would  be  about 
$6.50.  The!  first  steamboat  of  this  line  that  parsed  through 
the  Long  Sault,  was  the  Passport,  in  1848,  and  the  pilot 
was  W.  H.  McGanon,  who  is  still  in  the  employ  of  the  com- 
pany. The  soundings  were  made  by  scows  and  rafts,  with 
poles  attached  to  the  sides,  of  8  to  15  feet  in  length,  and 
as  either  of  these  met  an  obstruction  and  became  dislodged 
or  broken  off,  the  depth  of  water  was  ascertained  and  a 
record  made.  The  propelling  power  of  these  scows  or 
rafts  was  oars  or  large  paddles,  worked  by  from  lo  to  40 
men  on  each,  as  the  necessities  of  each  required. 

The  steamer  Gill  was  the  first  boat  through  the  rapids, 
and  went  down  more  by  accident  than  otherwise,  but  it 
demonstrated  the  certainty  of  a  channel. 

Earnhardt's  island  on  the  left,  7^  miles  in  length  by  4^ 
miles  in  width,  belongs  to  the  United  States.  On  the  right 
is  the  main  lanJ,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  Y.  Both  sides 
of  the  river  for  the  next  seven  miles  belong  to  the  United 
StaiJs.  The  King  of  Holland,  who  was  the  arbitrator  of 
the  treaty  cf  18 12,  from  charts,  maps,  etc ,  furnished  him, 
supposed  that  the  main  channel  of  the  river  passed  around 
that  island  on  the  left.  He  was  mistaken,  however ;  this  is 
the  main  channel  of  the  river,  and  the  only  navigaole  one ; 
the  Canadian  channel  containing  only  about  3 J  or  4  feet  of 
water. 

Duiing  the  next  eight  minutes  we  pass  three  very  sudden 


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turns  in  the  river;  the  first  turn  is  to  the  right ;  then  to  the 
left ;  next  to  the  right  again ;  the  second  turn  being  the 
sharpest  on  the  St.  L  awrence  river ;  at  direct  angles  turning 
to  the  left.  Passengers  on  the  left  side  of  the  boat,  by 
looking  backward,  have  a  fine  view  of  that  portion  of  the 
river  we  have  just  passed,  and  looking  forward  see  where 
we  are  compelled  to  go,  and  more  easily  note  the  sharpuess 
of  the  turn.  Rafts  entering  the  American  channel  at  the 
foot  of  the  L  jng  Sault  rapids  will  drift  nine  miles  in  forty 
minutes,  and  are  often  thrown  on  shore  on  either  side  in 
making  this  sudden  turn.  After  making  our  next  turn  to 
the  right,  by  looking  in  the  distance  front,  between  the  nar- 
row point,  will  discover  what  is  known  as  "  The  Crab." 
The  current  crosses  here  from  right  to  left,  then  left  to  right, 
and  from  right  to  left,  forming  the  letter  Z.  Rafts  get  en- 
tangled in  this  portion  of  the  river,  and  get  easily  torn  to 
pieces. 

There  is  a  ferryboat  plys  between  this  point,  on  the  right 
Macenia  point  and  Cornwall  point  on  the  left,  touching  at 
two  places  on  Barnhardt's  island,  to  convey  passengers  who 
are  desirous  of  visiting  Macenia  Springs,  six  miles  distant. 
The  steamboat  is  a  side-wheeler,  two  horses  tread  the  power 
that  revolves  the  wheels  ;  it  is  therefore  a  two-horse  power 
boat;  they  convey  the  steam  on  board  in  a  bag  well  filled 
with  oats.  The  deck  hand  is  the  cook;  the  cook  is  the 
engineer;  the  engineer  is  the  mate,  and  the  mate  is  the  cap- 
tain ;  one  man  supreme  command ;  no  mutiny  ever  occurs, 
unless  the  mule  should  kick  the  r';eck  hand  overboard — that 
would  be  "  mulity"  would  it  not  ? 

On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Canadian  channel  at 
the  end  of  Earnhardt's  island.     Two  miles  below  on  the 


V 


then  to  the 
being  the 
Igles  turning 
le  boat,  by 
tion  of  the 
I  see  where 
e  sharpness 
nnel  at  the 
iles  in  forty 
her  side  in 
ext  turn  to 
■en  the  nar- 
'he    Crab." 
left  to  right, 
^fts  get  en- 
isily  torn  to 

3n  the  right 
:ouching  at 
engers  who 
iles  distant. 
I  the  power 
irse  power 

well  filled 
:ook  is  the 

is  the  cap- 
''er  occurs, 
)ard— that 

:hannel  at 
>w  on  the 


83 

righi:  is  the  last  of  the  American  shore  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
lat.  45°  N.  Some  few  years  ago  I  was  presented  by  Messrs. 
W.  H.  Merril  &  Co.,  88  St.  James  St.,  Montreal,  one  of  the 
dry  goods  firms  in  the  city,  with  an  American  flag,  fifteen 
feet  in  length,  to  designate  the  last  of  the  United  States 
shore  on  this  river.  Through  the  assistance  of  a  friend  at 
Cornwall,  and  thirteen  dollars  in  cash.  I  succeeded  in  get- 
ting the  flag  in  position.  It  remained  there  for  about  ten 
days  when  a  party  of  St.  Regis  Indians,  who  occupy  a  res- 
ervation six  miles  distant  ihe  other  side  of  the  island,  four 
of  them  came  over  to  the  point,  filled  themselves  full  of 
*'  ice  water,"  climbed  up  the  flag  staff"  and  took  down  the 
flag.  They  cut  it  up  into  three  or  four  suits  of  clothes,  and 
went  around  this  vicinity  for  about  a  week  as  full  as  a  boiled 
oyster,  singing  "  Hail  Columbia,  right  side  up,"  rolled  up 
in  the  stars  and  stripes,  full  of  fire-water.  It  was  said  to 
be  the  happiest  moment  of  their  lives,  and  I  have  no  reason 
to  doubt  it. 

That  portion  of  the  river  on  the  right  is  the  dividing  line 
for  five  miles.  Afterwards  an  iron  fence  or  posts,  set  at 
equal  distance  apart,  mark  the  boundary  line.  The  river 
passing  around  that  way  forms  Cornwall  island,  about  six 
miles  wide.  Rafts  enter  this  portion  of  the  river  where  the 
Racket  river  empties  in,  and  are  here  refitted  preparatory  to 
being  towed  through  the  lake.  Both  sides  of  the  river  from 
this  point  downward,  belong  to  the  Dominion. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left,  is  Cornwall,  a  village  of  5,000 
people,  with  the  largest  cotton  and  woolen  mills  in  the 
Dominion.  Since  the  protective  tariff"  was  inaugurated  by 
;he  Dominion  Parliament  these  industries  have  thrived  won- 
derfully, and  the  town  is  correspondingly  prosperous.     Just 


mm. 


84 

before  landing,  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  both  the  old  and 
new  Cornwall  canals.  Looking  at  the  old  canal  lock,  and 
learning  its  dimensions,  it  is  obvious  why  the  steamers  are 
their  present  size  and  no  longer.  These  steamers  are  the 
limit  which  the  locks  will  admit,  hence  if  they  were  five  feet 
longer,  or  a  trifle  wider,  they  would  be  compelled  to  remain 
at  Montreal,  not  being  able  to  work  through  the  locks.  The 
new  canal,  which  is  alongside  of  the  old  one,  will  have  locks 
100  feet  longer  than  the  present  one  in  use,  consequently 
much  larger  boats  will  be  able  to  ply  the  river.  The  old 
canal  was  considered  amply  large  when  built ;  it  was  not 
supposed  that  the  travel  oa  the  St.  Lawrence  would  ever 
reach  its  present  and  constantly  increasing  numbers. 

After  leaving  Cornwall,  on  the  right,  is  Cornwall  island, 
6  miles  wide.  Just  beyond  the  island,  on  the  right  bank,  of 
the  river,  is  St.  Regis,  an  old  Indian  village,  which  cannot 
be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  But  there  is  just 
one  point  where  the  church  roof  can  be  observed  for  a  mo- 
ment or  so.  There  is,  however,  a  tradition  worth  relating 
here :  The  bell  hanging  in  this  church  is  associated 
with  a  deed  of  genuine  Indian  revenge.  On  its  way  from 
France  it  was  captured  by  an  English  cruiser,  and  taken 
into  Salem,  Massachusetts,  where  it  was  sold  to  the  church 
at  Deerfield,  in  the  same  State.  The  Indians,  hearing  of 
the  destination  of  their  bell,  set  out  for  Deerfield,  attacked 
the  town  killed  forty-seven  of  the  inhabitants,  and  took 
112  captives,  among  whom  was  the  pastor  and  his  family. 
The  bell  was  then  taken  down,  and  conveyed  to  St.  Regis, 
where  it  now  hangs. 

During  the  next  10  miles  of  our  trip,  the  river  is  beauti- 
fully studded  with  islands,  and  resembles  the  Thousand 


i\ 


;  old  and 
^1  lock,  and 
teamers  are 
iiers  are  the 
ere  five  feet 
3  to  remain 
ocks.    The 
have  locks 
>nsequent]y 
The  old 
it  was  not 
would  ever 
)ers. 

wall  island, 
fht  bank  of 
ich  cannot 
lere  is  just 
1  for  a  mo- 
th relating 
associated 
i  way  from 
and  taken 
he  church 
bearing  of 
,  attacked 
and  took 
lis  family. 
St.  Regis, 

is  beauti- 
rhousand 


85 

Islands  scenery  very  much.  Many  of  these  islands  are  in- 
habited ;  some  of  them  elegantly  laid  out  with  drives,  etc. 
Rev  Mr.  Dickinson's,  called  after  himself,  has  a  dock,  at 
which  steamers  of  this  size  can  land ;  it  has  a  hotel,  num- 
ber of  cottages,  and  is  quite  a  gay  place  in  Summer.  On 
the  left  is  Sun.mers  Town,  beyond  which  is  Hamilton's 
island.  Just  before  reaching  Summers  Town  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Captain  Cameron,  of  the  Cultivature  of  this  line ; 
beyond  is  the  magnificent  villa  of  Hon.  Caribou  Cameron, 
the  finest  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  built  of  Ohio  free- 
stone, and  cost  98o,ooo.  Hamilton  island,  on  the  left,  is 
occupied  every  summer  by  camping  parties  who  come  from 
great  distances,  even  from  Virginia  and  Ohio,  and  remain 
two,  three,  and  even  four  months.  Day  after  day,  one  of 
their  principal  amusements  is  rowing  out  in  their  small 
boats,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  steamers,  and  then 
swiftly  riding  on  top  of  the  swell  that  is  occasioned  by  the 
wheels  of  the  steamer.  The  scene  is  exciting  and  pictur- 
esque. On  the  right,  we  have  now  a  fine  view  of  the 
Adirondack  Mountains  of  Northern  New  York,  and  beyond 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  excep  it  be  a  smoky  or 
misty  day,  when  the  view  is  slightly  obscured.  It  is  56 
miles  from  the  river  to  the  mountains,  and  intervening  is 
the  wilderness  of  the  State  of  New  York,  known  as  the  John 
Brown  tract,  more  famous  as  tlje  hunting  ground  of  adven- 
turous gunning  and  fishing  parties. 

Continuing  our  course  wo  pass  three  small  islands,  and 
enter  Lake  St.  Francis,  28  miles  in  length — a  very  pictur- 
esque sheet  of  water  indeed,  but  the  trip  through  the  lake 
is  quite  monotonous,  therefore  for  the  next  two  hours  the 
guide,  as  well  as  the  passengers,  can  "  take  a  rest."     This 


86 

being  a  favorite  route  for  honeymoon  parties,  there  is  now 
two  full  hours  for  ihese  couples  to  enjoy  the  "  honey "  or 
the  "  moon  "  as  seemeth  to  them  best.  After  making  this 
announc'>ment  one  day,  53  left  the  deck,  one,  however,  was 
an  old  bachelor,  who  went  to  curl  his  hair. 

BOYS  ON  A  STEAMER. 

Here  is  a  genuine.  His  parents  are  with  him ;  he  can- 
not keep  still ;  he  wants  chiefly  to  break  his  neck  or  fall 
overboard,  or  to  get  crushed  by  the  walking  beam ;  he  has 
been  twice  dragged  from  the  steps  leading  to  the  walking- 
beam,  used  by  the  assistant  engineer  for  lubricating  pur- 
poses ;  he  would  like  to  get  in  the  paddle  boxes,  has  talked 
every  officer  on  board  to  death,  and  is  now  trying  his  best 
to  worry  the  deck  hands.  How  curiously  constructed  is  a 
real  boy,  to  go  whether  he  should  not,  and  especially  where 
his  anxious  mother  most  fears  he  will  go ;  he  is  now  doing 
his  best  to  spoil  his  parents  trip.  We  can  leave  him  for  a 
moment ;  he  won't  flag  in  his  endeavor  to  get  into  trouble 
or  to  make  his  parents  miserable. 

This  is  a  smaller  boy — not  yet  out  of  his  petticoats,  but 
very  active ;  he,  too,  has  with  him  an  anxious  mother ;  he 
has  found  another  boy— a  strange  boy,  of  the  same  size 
and  sex ;  they  have  become  acquainted ;  the  strange  boy  is 
allowed  by  his  parents  to  roam  about  the  boat  at  willj  he 
invites  the  nice  little  boy  to  roam  also ;  he  wants  him  to 
roam  as  neut  the  walking  beam  as  possible ;  he  has  roamed 
there  himself  before  and  escaped  ;he  tells  the  nice  little  boy 
how  cunning  it  is  to  come  near  being  crushed ;  the  nice 
little  boy's  mother  forbids  any  roaming  at  all ;  she  looks 
with  disfavor  on  the  strange  boy ;  but  the  strange  boy  con- 


nm 


^ere  is  noir 
I  honey"  or 
laking  this 
wever,  was 


n;  hecan- 
eck  or  fall 
n;  he  has 
walking- 
:ating  pur- 
has  talked 
g  his  best 
ucted  is  a 
iaily  where 
now  doing 
him  for  a 
to  trouble 

coats,  but 
3ther;  he 
«ame  size 
ge  boy  is 
:  will;  he 
i  him  to 
5  roamed 
little  boy 
the  nice 
le  looks 
)oy  con- 


87 

tinues  to  hang  around ;  he  knows,  so  does  the  nice  boy, 
together  they  can  fool  any  one  mother ;  united  they  stand, 
divided  they  fall ;  now  the  nice  boy  edges  away  from  the 
side  of  his  mother,  for  her  energies  are  momentarily  concen* 
trated  on  the  set  of  her  bonnet  and  the  nice  looking  gentle- 
man at  the  other  end  of  the  saloon,  who  is  taking  side 
glances  at  her  through  the  mirror.  Now  the  nice  boy  gets 
farther  away ;  they  are  on  the  forbidden  part  of  the  deck, 
near  the  walking  beam.  It  is  great  fun.  Now  the  cross 
man,  who  keeps  order  on  the  deck,  drives  them  away. 
They  go  to  the  newsboy  and  help  themselves  to  anything  on 
his  table  when  he  is  not  looking.  They  are  now  running  in 
and  out  of  the  staterooms,  in  everybody's  way ;  it  is  a  won- 
der they  haven't  been  killed  twenty  times.  It  is  great  fun 
for  the  boys,  but  almost  death  to  the  passengers.  And  the 
mother  is  still  so  occupied  with  her  bonnet,  and  the  dude 
who  has  made  a  mash  or  favorable  impression  upon  her, 
that  she  has  not  missed  her  nice  little  boy. 

In  the  centre  of  the  lake,  on  the  left,  is  the  village  of 
Lancaster,  an  old  Scotch  settlement.  Just  before  reaching 
the  village,  what  appears  to  be  a  stack  of  hay,  but  what  is 
commonly  known  throughout  Scotland  as  a  Cairn.  It  is 
no  more  or  less  than  a  heap  of  stones  in  a  rounded  or  coni- 
cal form,  placed  in  that  way  to  commemorate  some  especial 
historic  event.  This  one  was  built  by  the  Glengany  High- 
landers, in  1847,  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  Sir  John  Col- 
bum,  who  was  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Army  and  Gov- 
ernor-General of  the  Province.  It  was  built  by  putting 
cobble  stones  one  on  top  of  the  other — each  individual  in- 
habitant or  stranger  passing  that  way  adding  a  stone.  See 
Queen  Victoria's  Book,  where  she  describes  helping  to  build 


-I 


r 


a  Scotch  Cairn  with  the  assistance  of  John  Brown,  and  one 
will  get  a  better  idea  of  how  to  build  a  Cairn,  this  was  done 
by  placing  stones  one  upon  the  other  until  it  reached  the 
height  of  20  feet.  They  are  placed  in  a  conical  form,  and 
reaches  the  height  of  20  feet.  The  county  in  which  this 
place  is  located  is  nr.med  Glengarry,and  is  mainly  or  almost 
wholly  inhabited  by  the  sturdy  Scotch  highlanders,  whose 
farms  are  the  finest  in  the  Dominion,  This  is  the  last 
English  speaking  village  on  the  route.     ,         „   ^     „ 

Pasjing  three  lighthouses,  showing  that  the  channel  across 
the  lake  is  quite  intricate,  we  leave  St.  Anisette  on  the 
right,  a  small  French  town.  We  are  now  approaching  the 
bounc'ary  line  between  the  provinces  of  Ontario  and  Que- 
bec. The  lighthouses  on  either  side  show  the  geographical 
divisions.  From  the  lighthouse  on  the  left,  the  line  runs 
straight  to  the  Ottawa  river ;  then  the  Ottawa  becomes  the 
dividing  line.  Just  before  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
where  the  river  re-forms,  we  pass  San  Zotique ;  next  Coteau 
landing,  where  we  call  for  the  purpose  of  takmg  on  a  pilot, 

EDWARD  WILLETT,  ?^ 

whose  duty  it  is  to  pilot  this  line  of  boats  through  the  next 
series  of  rapids.  We  are  coming  to  four  rapids.  First,  the 
Coteau ;  second,  Cedar :  third,  Split  Rock,  and  fourth,  the 
Cascades.  On  the  extreme  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  is 
the  village  of  Valley  Field.  It  is  at  the  head  of  the  Beau- 
horaias  canal,  1 1^  miles  in  length,  which  passes  around  this 
series  of  rapids.  The  river  is  1 1^  miles,  has  a  fall  of  84 
feet.  The  finest  water-power  privilege  on  the  continent  of 
America,  except  Niagara,  is  at  this  point.  The  largest  cot- 
ton mill  in  the  Dominion,  the  Canada  Paper  Co.'s  mill,  and 


1 


-f 


!•'»  ■  ij 


n.  and  one 
is  was  done 
■eached  the 
form,  and 
which  this 
)'  or  almost 
lers,  whose 
is  the  last 

inel  across 
tte  on  the 
aching  the 
»  and  Que- 
ographical 
'  line  runs 
;comes  the 
f  the  lake, 
ext  Coteau 
•n  a  pilot, 

1  the  next 
First,  the 
)urth,  the 
le  lake,  is 
he  Beau- 
iund  this 
iall  of  84 
tinent  of 
gest  cot- 
tniil,  and 


neveral  other  manufacturing  establishments  ai"  located  at 
Valley  Field.  After  leaving  St.  Francis  Lake,  we  re  enter 
the  river.  With  our  pilot  we  go  down  the  small  rapid  known 
as  the  Coteau,  passing  Prisoner's  island  on  the  left,  and  on 
the  left  bank  is  the  old  French  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac. 
On  the  extreme  left  at  the  point  is  an  old  French  fort,  where 
battles  were  fought  in  181 2  and  1813;  the  earthworks  are 
still  in* a  good  state  of  preservation,  behind  which  is  the  old 
■  iw-mill.  Twenty  minutes  (or  five  miles)  from  this  point 
io  the  Cedar  rapids,  then  you  will  see  der  Rapid  that  is  a 
Rapid,  the  most  Rapid  Rapid  of  all  the  Rapids,  opposite 
the  rapid  is  the  village  of  Cedar  on  the  left  and  St.  Timothy 
on  the  right,  the  Cedar  rapid  is  the  finest  upon  the  St.  Law- 
rence River.  Look  at  St.  Timothy,  bear  in  mind  the  view 
you  had  of  Morrisburg  ;  the  impression  of  its  beauty  and 
thrift,  and  now  you  have  the  comparisoa.  How  does  the 
former  strike  you  as  against  the  latter  ?  It  is  a  historic  fact, 
and  worthy  of  note,  that  no  matter  what  town  you  arrive  at 
in  the  province  of  Quebec,  this  will  be  apparent  to  the  eye ; 
the  finest  buildings  in  the  place  will  be  the  church,  nunnery, 
school,  hospital  or  priest's  residence.  Aside  from  these,  the 
rest  are  all  about  alike.  You  cannot  tell  the  palace  resi- 
dence from  the  blacksmith's  shop,  or  the  grocery  store  from 
the  hotel.  The  church  at  St.  Timothy  has  a  seating  ca- 
pacity of  1,500;  the  population  of  the  village  is  600;  the 
church  is  always  full  on  Sundays,  and  as  Mark  Twain  ex- 
claimed, "  What  large  domes  these  worshippers  must  have 
to  their  pantaloons  for  600  to  fill  a  place  capable  of  seating 
1,500."  But  they  come  from  all  the  country  around,  being 
ail  of  one  persuasion.  An  opposition  church  is  so  fr.r  un- 
konwn  in  these  rural  parts,  hence  it  may  be  inferred  what 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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► 

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the  extraordinary  power  of  this  old  church  must  be  in  the 
lower  province. 

Speaking  to  one  of  the  priests  one  day  regarding  the 
amount  of  money  collected  by  them  from  the  poor  to  build 
and  maintain  their  institutions,  I  asked  him  how  it  was,  and 
he  remarked  that  the  millions  have  more  money  than  the 
millionaires,  and  by  getting  the  dollar  from  the  poorer  classes 
they  had  the  million,  whicii  the  miUionaires  never  give  up. 

Just  before  arriving  at  St.  Timothy,  we  enter  the  Cedar 
rapid,  and  pass  a  distance  of  three  and  one-half  miles  in  the 
extraordinary  short  time  of  seven  minutes.  By  casting  your 
eye  shoreward,  while  passing  an  island  on  the  left,  and  just 
before  we  enter  the  heaviest  part  of  the  rapid,  you  will  dis- 
cover how  fast  the  boat  is  going.  Looking  to  the  right,  you 
will  see  Hell's  hole,  and  the  greatest  co.amotion  in  the  river 
from  Kingston  to  the  Gulf 

Leaving  Cedar  rapid  which  is  the  most  picturesque  and 
beautiful  (in  our  estimation)  of  all,  two  and  oue-half  miles 
further  along,  and  passing  Bockey  Hayes'  shoal,  whi'-h  is  a 
peculiar  formation  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  making  naviga- 
tion somewhat  dangerous.  In  illustration  :  one  day  the 
steamer  Corslcan  suddenly  lurched  to  the  left,  and  evidently 
struck  a  rock,  whereupon  the  captain  said  to  the  pilot, 
"  Edward,  you  are  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  left."  Before 
he  could  complete  the  sentence,  the  boat  lurched  to  the 
J-ght  and  struck  another  rock  ;  then  the  pilot  replied,  "yes, 
and  a  httle  too  far  over  to  the  right  side."  It  is  plain  that 
the  channel  about  heie  is  at  least  precarious.  The  govern- 
ment engineers,  however,  are  now  at  work  removing  these 
dangerous  obstructions.  The  Napoleon  hats  you  see  in  the 
distance,  on  poles  about  ten  feet  high,  are  the  marks  which 


V 


■e^ 


., 


.^;^Tnil^y_  ■, 


mptyil^ijjy  iiii;iianirwi' 


miimtmtmrmfmmi^iifi 


I  be  in  the 

rding  the 
r  to  build 
was,  and 
than  the 
er  classes 
give  up. 
he  Cedar 
iles  in  the 
ting  your 
and  just 
will  dis- 
■ight,  you 
the  river 

sque  and 
alf  miles 
hi'^h  is  a 

naviga- 
day  the 
evidently 
>e  pilot, 

Before 
d  to  the 
d,  "yes, 
aiu  that 
govern- 
g  these 
e  in  the 
s  which 


+ 


enable  the  pilot  to  obtain  his  true  bearings  through  the 
shoal.  Turning  to  the  right  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Split 
Rock  rapid,  the  most  dangerous  rapid  of  all.  When  we 
speak  of  danger,  we  don't  mean  to  life  or  limb,  as  no  per- 
son was  ever  injured  on  this  rapid ;  it  is  danger  to  property 
that  we  refer  to,  as  this  is  the  only  one  of  the  series  that  has 
cost  the  company  one  dollar.  They  lost  one  steamboat 
here,  and  have  had  others  upon  the  rocks.  On  the  8th  of 
July,  1874,  the  steamer  Corinthian,  of  the  R.  O.  N.  Co., 
when  passing  the  Split  Rock  rapid,  was  almost  instantly  en- 
veloped by  a  terrific  thunder  shower,  accompanied  by  a  hur- 
ricane. The  wind  was  so  powerful  that  the  boat  refused  to 
answer  the  helm,  and  instead  of  turning  to  the  right,  as  she 
should,  the  wind  caused  her  to  go  straight  ahead,  and  we 
struck  a  rock  forward  about  five  feet  high  and  passed  fifteen 
feet  aft  of  the  wheel  over  the  same,  and  then  stopped.  I 
was  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat  explaining  to  the 
passengers  and  showing  or  pointing  out  to  them  the  ledge 
of  rock  when  she  struck.  Immediately  four  ladies  caught 
hold  of  me  (whom  they  thought  was  the  boss  life  preserver). 
What  a  position  tor  a  nice  young  man.  I  was  about  to  ex- 
claim as  my  friend  A.  Ward  did  when  he  was  surrounded 
by  20  cf  Brigham  Young's  wives,  "  I  hope  your  intentions 
are  honorable."  However,  through  the  assistance  of  some 
friends,  I  procured  life  preservers  for  them  and  was  released 
from  my  somewhat  precarious  position.  In  the  space  of  an 
hour  most  of  the  passengers  were  landed  by  the  aid  of  the 
ship's  boats  and  batteaus  from  the  shore,  and  proceeded  by 
rail  to  Montreal,  where  they  arrived  the  same  evening.  I 
remained  on  board  all  night  until  a  derrick  was  erected 
and  two  of  the  boats  lashed  together,  and  a  platform  built 
upon  them,  when  I  was  let  down  by  the  aid  of  the  derrick 


|i 


■#• 


^ 


,,,.  ."iS^-rf'iaiir.'K;t:;rs::" 


upon  the  same,  and  without  further  trouble  taken  to  shore 
in  safety.  The  second  line  of  white-caps  which  you  see  in  the 
distance  in  front,  is  the  Split  Rock,  a  ledge  of  roc  .  running 
from  shore  to  shore,  with  the  exception  of  a  break  of  about 
sixty  feet,  which  is  a  natural  split  in  the  rock.  Formerly 
there  was  only  a  depth  of  nine  feet  of  water;  it  was  blasted 
out,  and  now  gives  a  navigable  channel  of  thirteen  and  one- 
half  feet.  Passengers,  by  looking  into  the  water  on  the 
right  side  of  the  boat,  can  see  the  ledge  we  have  been  talk- 
ing about. 

One  and  a  half  miles  from  here  to  the  Cascade,  the  last 

of  this  series  of  four,  and  the  last  but  one  on  the  river 

the  Lachine  being  the  last.  The  Cascade  differs  from  all 
the  rest,  being  a  cutting,  chopping  sea,  m  which  the  boats 
are  wrenched  more  than  in  any  other  rapid.  On  the  right 
is  the  village  of  Melocheville,  at  the  foot  of  the  Beauhor- 
nois  canal,  eleven  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  that  passes 
around  this  line  of  rapids.  The  boats  of  this  and  all  other 
lines  are  compelled  to  pass  through  this  canal,  as  none  of 
them  could  ascend  this  line  of  rapids. 

We  are  now  thirty  miles  by  water  and  twenty-four  miles 
by  land  from  Montreal.  In  the  distance,  in  front  is  Mount 
Royal,  or  Montreal  mountain  The  park  mountain  drive, 
the  most  famous  drive  in  the  world,  is  up  the  brow  of  this 
mountain  through  a  park.  On  the  left  is  II  Perot  Island, 
formed  by  the  Cwo  channels  of  the  Ottawa.  The  one  we 
now  see  comes  by  St.  Anns,  where  Moore  wrote  his  famous 
Canadian  boat  song.  A  resident  of  St.  Anns,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Dowker,  says,  that  every  spring  the  freshets  of  the 
Ottawa  cause  the  water  to  comedown  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
with  such  force  as  to  cause  an  eddy  to  pass  up  the  point  of 


J^J.ilJlUJ!JJ:4>;^4l-iillMJ4'M^^V'W 


mm' 


to  shore 
iee  in  the 

running 
of  about 
Formerly 
s  blasted 
and  one- 
■  on  the 
een  talk- 

,  the  last 
s  river — 
from  all 
le  boats 
the  right 
Beauhor- 
it  passes 
all  other 
none  of 

nr  miles 
1  Mount 
1  drive, 
of  this 
Island, 
one  we 
famous 
tenant- 
of  the 
vrence 
)int  of 


■fJ-^-ff^ 


the  island  and  pass  down  the  navigable  channe'  of  the  Ot- 
tawa, and  he  can  take  a  pail  from  his  house,  Chateau 
Blanc  (where  the  famous  poet  Moore  resided,  while  at  St. 
Anns,  and  wrote  his  Canadian  poems),  proceed  down  to  the 
river  and  dip  up  a  pail  of  pure  clear  St.  Lawrence  water. 
Meeting  Col.  Dowker  this  spring,  he  told  me  that  the  fresh- 
ets of  the  Ottawa  in  March  and  April,  1885,  were  the  most 
alarming  and  disastrous  ever  known.  The  sudden  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice  caused  a  jam.  Houses  were  moved  from 
their  foundation,  cattle  and  sheep  crushed  to  jelly  by  the 
ice  and  many  drowned ;  the  ice  piled  mountains  high.  The 
government  has  an  agent  in  the  vicinity  relieving  the  dis- 
tressed inhabitants.  The  oldest  church  in  the  upper  pro- 
vince and  old  forts  are  to  be  seen  here. 

On  the  left  a  portion  of  the  Ottawa  empties  into  the  St. 
Lawrence.  This  is  not,  however,  the  main  channel ;  the 
navigable  portion  of  the  river  is  just  the  other  side  of  II 
Perot.  Note  the  difference  between  the  color  of  the  two 
waters ;  they  are  as  wide  apart  as  green  is  from  purple. 
The  water  of  the  Ottawa  is  of  a  dark  brown  color,  caused 
by  passing  over  low,  marshy  peat  bed  soils,  and  the  huge 
forests  through  which  this  river  passes,  the  leaves  falling  and 
rotting,  and  swept  along  by  the  freshets  doubtless  dye  the 
water  to  the  peculiar  color  observable.  The  waters  of  the 
two  rivers  do  not  readily  mix,  and  each  are  distinct  for  many 
miles. 

In  the  distance  is  Lake  St.  Louis  or  Lachine  Lake,  15 
miles  from  the  rapids  to  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where  we 
arrive  at  Lachine  on  the  left,  and  Caughnawaga  on  the 
right.  The  latter  is  the  residence  of  the  itidian  pilot,  St. 
Jean  Baptiste,  who  takes  this  line  of  boats  down  the  La- 
chine rapids. 


J>-*- 


t" 


^ 


About  half  way  through  the  lake  on  the  right  we  come  to 
Nun's  island.  That  mound  or  elevation  of  ground  which 
you  see,  was  a  fort  in  1812,  and  English  and  American 
war-like  parties  met  in  sanguinary  contest  around  here.  It 
commands  the  entrance  to  the  Chateaugay  River.  1  he  vil- 
lage of  Chateaugay  is  about  6  miles  back.  The  Nun's 
island  belongs  to  the  Grey  nuns,  of  Montreal,  who  have  a 
hospital  for  their  own  sick,  and  the  spot  is  marked  by  a 
large  cross  emblematic  of  their  order. 

Fifteen  minutes  from  here  we  are  in  sight  of  Caughna- 
waga  where  we  take  on  board  the  Indian  pilot,  who  has  be- 
come of  historical  interest  to  tourists,  as  it  was  he  who  dis- 
covered the  channel  and  took  the  first  of  this  line  down 
August  19,  1840,  and  has  been  in  the  employ  of  the  com- 
pany ever  since.  He  is  70  years  old,  weighs  240  pounds 
and  stands  6  feet  high.  Many  of  the  passengers  imagine 
he  is  the  only  pilot  who  can  take  a  boat  through  the  La- 
chine  rapids.  This  is  not  correct,  for  we  have  other  pilots 
who  can,  but  as  he  is  paid  for  this  especial  service,  they  re- 
sign most  cheerfully  in  his  favor.  He  has  never  had  an  ac- 
cident, and  the  company  beiieve  in  holding  to  that  which  is 
good,  and  therefore,  "  stick  to  the  old  man."  He  will 
emerge  from  shore  in  a  small  boat,  accompanied  by  his  two 
sons.  They  row  him  to  the  steamers,  he  comes  on  board, 
and  the  boys  row  home  again.  He  remains  on  board  till 
the  next  morning,  take  the  first  train  for  Lachine,  where 
he  is  met  by  the  boys,  who  take  him  home  in  the  row-boat. 
The  Indian  pilot's  name  is  St.  Jean  Baptiste  De  Lisle  ;  his 
Indian  name,  Ta-^a-ka,  meaning  in  the  U.  S.  language  that 
"he  will  cross  the  river,"  but  does  not ;  he  goes  down  the 
rapids.     He  has  a  family  of  six  children,  three  boys  and 


xife 


come  to 

d  which 

^Linerican 

lere.     It 

Ihevil- 

e  Nun's 

0  have  a 

^ed  by  a 

-aughna- 
3  has  be- 
who  dis- 
le  down 
he  com- 
'  pounds 
imagine 
the  La- 
er  pilots 
they  re- 
d  an  ac- 
ivhich  is 
^e  will 
his  two 
I  board, 
ard  till 
,  where 
w-boat. 
le;  his 
ge  that 
vn  the 
ys  and 


J 


• —  ■mm. ' ' ''^igyiiBg^ipffi^   'j  x  m  \mMi!»  U:L--  '  n  m)  r^mm-'vi 


three  girls.  The  girls  are  unmarried.  I  state  this  for  the 
benefit  of  the  young  men  on  board,  as  the  Indian  pilot  says 
he  wants  a  "  heap  Yankee  "  for  his  girls.  I  am  engaged  to 
my  Mary  Jane  and  they  can't  have  me. 

Here  the  Indian  pilot  comes  on  board,  a  description  of 
Caughnawaga  would  not  be  amiss.  Note  the  line  of  pala- 
tial residences  along  the  bank  beyond  the  church,  the  win- 
dows and  doors  kilked  out  to  give  them  light  and  air.  The 
palace  gardens  in  the  front  part  of  the  back  end  of  the  house. 
The  laundry  of  Caughnawaga  is  usually  hung  on  the  fence ; 
it  is  not  wash  day  to-day  as  you  can  perceive.  The  bath- 
house is  the  whole  water-front,  but  it  is  seldom  used.  The 
water-works  is  that  barrel  on  the  shore.  That  fair  damsel, 
waving  her  lily  white  hand,  is  Mary  Jane,  my  best  girl.  She 
comes  out  every  day  to  welcome  me,  as  slie  thinks  I  am  on 
board.  You  can  get  her  eye  and  hav,;  a  flirtation,  the  same 
as  I  have  had  for  years,  and  not  inake  me  jealous.  That 
large  brick  structure  is  the  centennial  building,  built  during 
the  centennial  year  by  the  celebrated  Indian  Chief,  White 
Kicker.  I  think  they  use  him  to  kick  the  windows  and 
doors  out  of  the  palatial  residences  previously  spoken  of. 

Caughnawaga,  signifying  "  Praying  Indian  "  (my  friend 
Ben  Butler  says,  they  spell  it  with  an  e),  is  well  laid  out  for 
an  Indian  village,  with  a  population  of  900,  all  Indians ;  no 
whites  can  live  here. 

The  finest  crops  raised  in  this  section  of  the  country  are 
raised  just  below  Caughnawaga.  They  raise  them  with  a 
derrick.  It  is  a  blasted  crop,  however,  and  of  no  use  until 
it  is.  This  notable  quarry  is  where  most  of  the  stone  comes 
from  for  the  construction  of  the  locks  in  the  new  Lachine 
canal.  The  entrance  of  which  is  at  Lachine,  the  village 
just  past  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  on  the  left. 


H 


HUUWBIMBHIaSB 


THE  VILLAGE  OF  LACHINE, 

is  a  favorite  resort  for  Montrealers  in  summer.  The  in- 
habitants number  about  2,000,  but  it  is  frequently  augment- 
ed in  the  season  to  0,000  or  10,000.  Note  the  large  build- 
ings, which  are  the  church,  Villa  de  Mi.ria  Convent,  the 
School  and  University  for  the  education  of  priests. 

Our  Indian  pilot  being  on  board,  he  will  now  show  his 
Injm-uity  m  piloting  a  boat  down  the  St.  Lawrence.  We 
re-enter  the  river,  and  in  a  few  minutes  enter  the 
Lachme  rapids.  Before  reaching  the  rapids,  the  tourist 
can  see  the  aqueduct  that  supplies  the  city  of  Montreal  with 
water. 

THE  LACHINE  RAPIDS 

differ  from  all  the  rest,  it  is  simply  an  intricate  channel 
through  rock.  Take  your  position  upon  either  side  of  the 
boat  and  you  will  know  when  we  come  to  the  most  im- 
portant pomt,  as  the  boat  will  be  pointed  direct  for  a  little 
island,  which  is  nothing  more  nor  less  than  few  loads  of 
dirt  upon  a  huge  ledge  of  rock.  Keep  your  eye  upon  the 
bow  of  the  boat  and  you  will  be  led  to  exclaim,  why  are  we 
going  to  strike  the  island,  and  if  you  are  a  betting  person  or 
a  truthful  one  you  would  almost  swear  we  could  not  help 
but  strike,  but  when  within  less  than  ten  feet  we  make  a 
very  sudden  turn  to  the  right,  with  a  grand  picth  or  lurch  in 
which  you  will  think  the  boat  drops  ten  feet.  We  pass 
alongside  of  a  ledge  of  rocks  for  about  half  a  mile  to  see 
which  you  must  be  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat  • 
at  the  end  of  this  ledge  of  rock  we  have  a  perfect  minature 
Niagara;  a  httle  water-tall  for  a  cent.     Do  not  allow  the 


1 


■fMPI" 


fmmmi'mfiiwnf'W' 


97 


lurching  of  the  boat  from  side  to  side,  to  cause 
you  any  uneasiness  as  there  is  no  danger,  because 
a  side-wheel  boat  has  guards  on  the  sides  from  four  to  ten 
feet,  projecting  over  on  each  side  from  the  hull,  60  or  90 
feet  long,  so  that  when  that  flat  surface  strikes  the  water  by 
lurching  that  is  as  far  as  she  can  go,  therefore,  will  always 
lighten  herself  immediately.  I  have  had  a  great  deal  of 
sport  in  this  way,  when  the  boat  had  lurched  over  as  far  as 
she  could,  I  would  immediately  exclaim  :  "  Oh  !  I  am  on 
the  wrong  side,"  and  proceed  to  the  high  side,  when  the 
boat  would  immediately  righten  up  and  all  the  passengers 
would  think  I  did  it,  but  she  would  have  rightened  without 
my  aid.  This  is  the  last  rapid  built  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
you  can  have  it  the  best  one  if  you  like  and  I  will  not 
quarrel  with  you  for  it,  all  I  ask  you  to  do  is  to  stop  at  the 
hotels  who  advertise  in  my  book  and  tell  them  I  was  the 
cause,  and  if  they  do  not  treat  you  well,  I  will  proceed  to 
sit  down  upon  them,  and  they  will  never  have  occasion  to 
treat  anyone  else  badly.  Passing  the  foot  of  the  rapids  a 
first  view  of  Montreal  on  the  left,  and  on  the  right  is  the 
village  of  La  Prairie.  The  first  mountain  on  the  left  is 
Mount  Bruno ;  second,  Bellelsle ;  the  third,  St,  Pie.  The 
next,  and  last  sensation  on  the  trip  is  passing  under 

VICTORIA  BRIDGE^. 

the  largest  and  longest  tubular  bridge  in  the  world,  was 
built  by  Mr.  Stepenson,  in  i860,  for  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
road, by  which  it  is  owned  and  controlled.  It  is  a  mile  and 
three-quarters  of  iron,  two  miles  and  a  quarter  with  its  ap- 
proaches from  shore.  It  is  wholly  of  iron,  top,  bottom  and 
sides — an  iron  tunnel,  or  box,  as  it  were.    There  are  twenty- 


l 


Bi'ltii"JifllB4diBMi 


98 

FAMOUS  FOR  ONE-THIRD  OF  A  CENTURY. 

THE  ST.  lMeNCE  HALL, 

IVIOKTRBAL. 

Is  BO  ttrraiiged  that  rooms  iw«l  for  guests  oi-e  onlv  one  flight  above 
the  (;KA\D  old  PAKU)R8,  wl.vii  are  just  one  (light  of  stairs 
froui  8t  James  street  This  ite.n  of  rooms  below  the  (•U)ud8,  with 
plenty  of  light  and  air,  Ls  worthy  of  attention. 

THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  HALL 

Occnpies  a  fmntage  on  St.  James  street  180  feet,  on  St.  Francois 
Xavier  ntreet  14G  feet,  on  Craig  street  IHO  feet,  and  on  St.  George 
street  110  feet,  in  the  verv  heart  of  the  citv.  opiwsite  the  new  P»t 
Office.    Thus 

From  $2  to  $5  is  Saved  from  Hack  Hire  Alone. 

The  only  first-cla-ss  liotel  located  within  one  mile  of  the  jxjst  office 
and  all  the  public  buildings.  Its  Uble  unequalled  by  any  in  the  Do- 
minion. Satisfiu^tion  guaranteed  to  every  patron.  No  ostentatious 
display,  but  all  the  Nolid  comforts  of  a  home. 

Only  one  block  from  the  French  Cathedral.  Two 

blocks  from  Tictoria  Square.     Only  two 

blocks  from  the  Theatre  Royal.  Within 

Two  blocks  of  all  the  Business 

and  Dry  Goods  Palaces. 

The  nearest  first-class  hotel  to  the  de|)ot8  and  steam  boat  landings. 
Every  place  worthy  of  note  to  the  tourist  is  within  fifteen  minutes 
walk  01  the  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  except  those  you  see  in  your  Park 
Mountain  Drive.  This  hotel  was  the  home  of  all  rovul  and  notable 
personages  who  visited  Montreal  for  thirtv  years.  It  fiasall  the  mod- 
ern improvements,  Elevator,  Gas  and  Efectric  Lights,  Hot  and  Cold 
Water,  Electric  Bells.  Rooms  En-Suite,  with  Bath  and  Closets  on 
every  floor.  Spacious,  clean  and  well  ventilated  rooms.  The  best 
beds  of  any  hotel  in  the  city.  The  prices  are  graduated.  All  under 
the  personal  supervision  of 

MR.  HENRY  HOGAN. 


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IoikIs,  with 


1.  Francois 

St.  George 

new  Pist 

Alone. 


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the  raod- 

and  Cold 

L'loeets  on 

The  best 

A^ll  under 

rAN. 


99 

four  abutments,  built  wedge  shaped  (to  crush  the  immense 
ice  fields  that  pass  through  this  section,  which,  previous  to 
the  building  of  the  bridge,  did  immense  damage  to  Mon- 
treal during  the  spring  freshets.  There  is  no  such  thing  as 
freshets  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Ottawa  flowing  in  some 
miles  above,  causing  such  disasters)  upon  which  rest  the  sec- 
tions of  iron.  These  spans  are  from  250  to  360  feet  long  each, 
and  the  centre  span  is  about  60  feet  high.  The  bridge 
tubes  are  16x22  feet.  It  contains  no  wagon  road  or  foot- 
path, and  is  used  by  the  G.  T.  R.  and  its  connecting  lines. 
The  cost  of  this  immense  work  was  $6,250,000,  about  one- 
half  of  which  amount  wer  t  to  fatten  the  contractors.  I  was 
not  one  of  them.  I  mention  this  on  account  of  my  size, 
and  for  fear  some  one  would  think  I  was  wealthy.  The 
bridge  is  constructed  of  sheets  of  iron  with  a  two-inch  edge 
turned  up  and  rivited  to  each  other.  It  is  fastened  to  the 
centre,  loose  on  both  ends  on  rollers,  and  is  provided  wi 
a  sliding  track,  so  that  there  is  no  danger  by  expansioiy  or 
contraction  to  passing  trains.  It  expands  and  contracts  worn 
three  and  one-half  to  seven  inches.  The  bridge  is  kept  in 
thorough  repair  and  well  painted.  The  small  holes,  or  per- 
forations, in  the  sides  of  the  bridge  were  originally  intended 
to  convey  the  smoke  out,  but  found  inadequate  for  that  pur- 
pose, they  caused  to  be  erected  last  spring  a  line  of  flue.s 
the  whole  length.  Now  if  any  smoke  remains,  it  is  carried 
out  in  a  hand  basket.  The  two  movable  scaffolds  you  see 
are  used  by  the  workmen  in  repairing  and  painting.  It  is 
not  a  draw  bridge,  and  as  we  pass  under  the  center  span, 
and  not  over  it,  you  need  not  remove  your  hat  if  you  remain 
on  the  deck.  After  passing  under  the  bridge  you  will  have 
a  magnificent  view  of      .,,-•;        :    ,       ..;  ti- iUsi's* 


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MONTREAL  HARBOR. 

The  points  of  interest  in  the  harbor  will  all  be  described 
to  you  as  we  pass  over  St.  Lambert's  shoal,  a  very  danger- 
ous passage,  previous  to  landing  at  the  Quebec  boat  where 
we  transfer  such  passengers  as  desire  to  visit  Quebec.     The 
island  you  see  front  on  the  right,  is  St.  Helen's  Isle,  used 
by  the  citizens  of  Montreal  for  pleasure,  picnic  parties,  etc. 
A  ferry  plys  b-tween  the  city  and  island  every  half  hour, 
trop'  morning  uitil  7  p.  m.     On  Sunday  ftom  3,000  to  20,- 
000  persons  visit  the  island,   mostly  French    Canadians, 
three-fifths  of  w'lom  comprises  the  population  of  Montreal. 
In  the  distant  front  on  the  left  is  the  oldest  church  in  Mon- 
treal ;  to  the  left  of  that,  the  largest  building  with  the  dome, 
is  the  Bonseccour  Market  and  old  City  Hall.     The  new 
City  Hall  is  that  large  building  in  the  rear  with  the  dome  in 
the  centre  and  four  columns  one  in  each  corner.     Across 
the  road  to  the  left,  that  long  building  is  the  Court  House. 
At  the  head  of  Jacques  Cartier  Square  is  a  magnificent  col- 
umn erected  to  the  memory  af  Lord  Nelson.     At  the  foot 
of  the  square  lies  a  steamer  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario 
Navigation  Company.     There  are  two  steamers  on  this  line, 
notably,  the  Montreal  and    Quebec.     This  company   own 
twenty-one  side  wheel  boats.     The  Quebec  line  has  the 
largest  boats  that  float  the  St.  Lawrence  River ;  they  will 
compare  favorably  with  the  boats  of  the  Sound  or  the  Hud- 
son  River — triple-decked  palace  boats,  built  of  Bessemer 
steel ;  one  has  a  capacity  of  360  state  rooms — the  other 
280.     The  distance  to  Quebec  is  180  miles,  and  the  fare  on 
this  line  is  only  $2.50 — the  cheapest  on  the  continent.     Be- 
yond, on  the  left,  the  two  massive  towers  you  see  belong  to 
the  French  church  of  Notre  Dame.     It  is  not  a  Cathedral^ 


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lalf  hour, 
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Montreal, 
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Across 
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'  lOI 

but  simply  a  parish  church.  (The  Cathedral  is  on  Domin- 
ion Square,  in  process  of  erection,  and  when  complete,  will 
be  one  half  the  size  of  St.  Peters  at  Rome).  It  is  the  larg- 
est on  the  continent,  and  has  contained  within  its  walls  front 
porch  and  stairways,  on  the  34th  of  June  last  (St.  John's 
day),  twenty-two  thousand  souls.  Beyond  is  the  Custom 
House,  with  the  clock  in  the  tower,  and  still  further  up  the 
examining  warehouse  of  the  Custom  House,  as  well  as  the 
office,  docks  and  steamers  of  the  Allen  line.  The  first  stop 
is  at  Quebec  boat ;  passengers  for  Montreal  remain  on 
deck,  as  this  line  is  compelled  to  enter  the  first  lock  in  the 
Lachine  canal ;  the  gates  close  and  the  water  is  allowed  to 
enter,  which  raises  the  boat  to  the  level  of  the  lock  when 
the  passengers  are  allowed  to  depart.  Montreal  is  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  Dominion,  with  a  population 
of  150,000,  three-fifths  of  which  are  French  Canadians. 
The  docks,  piers,  wharfs,  etc ,  of  Montreal  are  the  finest  on 
the  continent.  It  is  the  second  city  of  commercial  import- 
ance— New  York  being  first.  Six  steamship  companies 
leave  here  weekly  for  Europe  during  the  summer  season  and 
a  large  amount  of  business  must  of  a  necessity  be  done,  as 
its  channel  is  closed  during  five  months  of  the  winter.  The 
water  front  is  all  lighted  with  the  electric  light,  so  that  work 
is  carried  on  during  the  summer  months  night  and  day. 
Having  selected  your  hotel  and  arrived  at  the  same,  our 
next  duty  will  be  to  see  the  sights  of 

MONTREAL. 

It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  ocean  vessels, 
540  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  which  lies  between  the  two  great  rivers  of  the 


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Delaware  &  Hudson  C.  Co's 


I?>-A.II_,I^O^X). 


SARATOGA    LINE. 

Twenty-EiKht  Miles  the  Shortest  Route  between 
Montreal  and  New  York. 


The  Only  Line  to  Saratoga,  Lake  George,  and 
Lake  Champlain. 


The  Most  Direct   Route  to  Troy,  Aibany,  New 

York,  Philadelphia,  and  All  Points 

Scuth  and  East. 


— ^^-pv-.-s  by  this  Route,  during  the  Summer  Season,  mav  exohance 
their  tickets   for  those   readinf   "Through   (..ake  Chaiiipialii    and 


Passengers 


Kitakc  OeorifF.  via  the  Champlain  Transportation  Company's  Stc 
ers,  afrording  them  an  opportunity  of  viewing  some  of  the  Fin 
Scenery  In  Anierlo"- 


-  -'am- 
Finest 


Wagner's  Elegant  Braving  Boom  and  Sleeping  Cars  Sun 

This  Boute. 


via 


■ 


:^ 


The  Through  Mail  and  Express  for  New  York  carried  over  this  Line.  Dur- 
mg  the  Season  of  Navigation,  close  connection  made  at  Troy  and  Aibany, 
with  day  and  night  Iwats  on  the  Hudson  River  for  New  York. 

Information  given  and  Tickets  sold  at  the  Grand  Trunk  Ticket  Offices,  and 
at  the  Company's  Office. 

1  43  St.  James  Street,  Montreal. 
J.  W.  BUEDIOK,  OHAELES  0.  MoFALL, 

aewrtl  Fttuscer  Agent,  Altwy.  Agent,  Montr»«l. 


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North,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Ottawa.  The  island  is 
about  thirty -two  miles  in  length,  and  at  its  widest  some  ten 
in  breadth  ;  it  is  so  fertile  as  to  be  called  the  garden  of  the 
Province.  The  surface  of  the  land  is  level  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  eminence  of  Mount  Royal,  which  rises  550 
feet  above  the  river  level.  Mount  Royal  gives  the  name 
to  the  city  'vhich  lies  at  its  base.  The  settlement  of  the 
town  was  originally  determined  by  the  first  explorer,  Jacques 
Cartier,  in  1535,  at  which  time  an  Indian  village,  Hoche- 
laga,  occapied  the  spot.  The  permanent  founding  of  the 
place,  however,  did  not  occur  until  1.642,  and  in  one  iiundred 
years  of  growth  thereafter  it  gathered  a  population  of  4,000. 
It  was  under  French  rule  until  1760,  when  it  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  British.  In  1832  the  cholera  raged  in 
Montreal  with  great  violence,  carrying  off  1,843  inhabitants 
in  a  population  of  but  30,000.  In  April,  1849,  a  political 
mob  burnt  the  Parli.rment  buildings,  which  were  erected  on 
McGill  street,  and  the  seat  of  Government  was,  in  conse- 
quence, transferred  to  Quebec,  thence  to  Toronto,  and 
finally  to  Ottawa,  where  it  remains.  In  July,  1852,  a  de- 
structive fire  laid  waste  a  large  portion  of  the  city,  burning 
no  houses,  and  consuming  property  valued  at  $1,400,000. 
Notwithstanding  these  reverses  the  city  recovered,  and  to- 
day numbers  a  population  of  150,000.  Years  of  industry 
and  enterprise  have  produced  growth  and  improvement  in 
Montreal,  such  as  but  few  American  cities  can  boast  of, 
and  perhaps  but  one — Chicago — has  exceeded.  At  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century  vessels  of  more  than  300 
tons  could  not  ascend  to  Montreal,  and  its  foreign  trade 
was  carried  on  by  brigs  and  barges.  Now  ocean  steam- 
ships of  over  4,000  tons,  the  floating  palaces  of  the  Riche- 


■^1: 


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1^4 


lieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Cor-ipany,  and  ships  of  from 
700  to  4,uoo  tons  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  occupy  the 
wharves  of  the  harbor,  which  aie  not  equaled  on  this  con- 
tinent in  point  of  substantial    construction,   convenience 
and  cleanliness.     The  old  part  of  Montreal,  near  the  river, 
has  niirrow,  incommodious  streets ;  but  the  new  growth  of 
the  city  toward   Mount  Royal  has  been  Hberally  laid  out, 
with  wide  and  cheerful  thoroughfares.     The  architecture 
here  is  very  fine  ;  the  material  chien^  -..sed  is  a  zinc-colored 
lime-Htone,  extensively  quarried  three  miles  from  the  city. 
The  public  buildings,  banks,  and  principal  warehouses   ye 
solid  and  handsome  enough  to  adorn  a  European  cap.ial. 
The  great  wealth  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  ena- 
bled it  to  erect  many  magnificent  churches,  hospitals  and 
convents,  always  in   a  very  massive   and   enduring  style. 
Other  denominations  seem  to  have  been  excited  by  emula- 
tion, and  vie  with  each  other  in  the  beauty  and  elegance  of 
their  places  of   worship.     Among    the  evidences  of   the 
French  origin  of  the  city  are  to  be  noticed  a  few  curious 
old  buildings  to  be  found  lingering  here  and  there  about 
Jacques  Cartier  Square,  or  occupying  sites  c.\  the  eastern 
part  of  the  river  front.     These  old  houses  are  built  some- 
what like  fortifications,  and  have   heavily  vaulted  cellars, 
wherein  treasure  might  be  stored  or  a  defence  made  against 
hostile  foes,  in  the  days  when  Indians  and  Whites,  French 
and  British  were  fighting  and  plundering  each  other.     The 
French  Canadians  in  the  city,  condnue  still  to  be  a  Httle 
more  than  half  the  population,  and,  although  their  language 
here  has  not  been  unaffected  by  the  constant  intercourse 
with  English-speaking  people,  it  is  not,  as  commonly  sup- 
posed, a  pa/ois,  but  such  French  as   was  spoken   by  the 


4 


■-■-    ■    '•■■:■■•  lOS  ■■.■.'-'■..        ■'-.   ..   -'.^  ,/^-V: 

polite  and  educated  in  France,  when  the  emigrants  who 
first  settled  Canada,  left  the  shore  of  their  mother-land. 
The  naming  of  many  of  the  streets  of  Montreal  after 
saints  and  holy  things  reminds  one  that  its  founders  were 
not  exiles  nor  adventurers  bat  enthusiastic  missionaries. 

PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 

The  Post  Office  is  built  on  St.  James  street,  the  chief 
thoroughfare  of  this  city,  opposite  the  new  St.  Lawrence 
Hall.  The  reason  I  use  the  word  new  may  be  asked. 
Well,  the  hotel  has  been  newly  re-fitted,  the  corner  building 
purchased,  one  hundred  elegant  and  commodious  rooms 
added,  with  baths  and  closets,  electric  bells  and  elevators, 
etc.,  etc.  The  old  proprietor,  Mr.  Henry  Hogan,  pro- 
nounced by  connoisseurs  to  be  the  best  landlord  in  the 
Dominion,  has  assumed  the  proprietorship  and  has  associ- 
ated with  him  as  manager,  Mr.  Samuel  Montgomery,  the 
best  choice  that  could  be  made,  as  he  is  an  American  from 
the  Pacific  slope,  where  they  know  how  to  keep  a  hoteL 
I  therefore  cheerfully  recommend  you  to  stop  at  the  new 
St.  Lawrence  Hall  during  your  stay  in  Montreal.  Start- 
ing from  there,  it  being  the  centre,  every  point  of  interest 
is  within  fifteen  minutes'  walk  of  this  hotel.  The  first 
building  to  the  left  is  the  new  Post  Office,  recently  finished, 
with  a  richly  decorated  exterior,  and  every  internal  improve- 
ment which  modern  ingenuity  has  devised.  Adjoining  it 
is  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  in  the  Corinthian  style  of  architec- 
ture, with  a  sculpture  on  the  pediment  depicting  native 
Indians,  a  sailor  and  settler  with  the  emblems  of  the  arts 
and  trade.  The  corporation  occupying  this  noble  building 
is  the  richest  one  of  the  kind  in  America.     It  has  branches 


_i 


-Ji 


I 


•ri'^  Ci:  ?-t' 


^''-'.  l\ 


m 


in  every  town  of  importance  in  the  Dominion,  and  has  offi- 
ces in  New  York,  Chicago  and  London.  It  issues  letters  of 
credit  on  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  capital  and  reserve  fund 
amount  to  $18,000,000.  Adjoining  the  Bank  of  Montreal 
is  the  Canada  Pacific  Railroad  office,  a  simple  solid  struc- 
ture in  the  Doric  style.  Crossing  the  street  a  little  above  the 
corner  on  the  right  hand  side  is  88  St.  James  street,  where 
W.  H.  Merrill  &  Co.,  have  opened  a  new  store  for  the  sale 
of  silks,  velvets,  laces,  gloves,  •>ilk  underwear  aud  hoisery, 
they  were  formerly  on  Notre  Dame  street,  but  are  now  es- 
tabhshed  at  88  St.  James  street,  where  they  would  be  glad 
to  meet  their  old  customers  and  as  many  new  ones.  Other 
banks  having  their  offices  on  Place  d'Arms  are  the  Jacques 
Cartier,  Ontario,  Quebec  and  National  Banks.  On  the 
south  side  of  the  square  the  great  parish  church  of  Notre 
Dame  looms  up.  The  dimensions  of  this  vast  Norman 
edifice  are  225  feet  in  length,  and  is  134  feet  in  width.  Its 
towers  are  220  feet  high  ;  the  western  one  contains  the  larg- 
est bell  in  America,  "  Gros  Bourdon,"  in  weight  29,400 
pounds.  The  seating  capacity  of  the  church  is  10,000.  It 
has  recently  been  decorated  in  deep  colors  and  gold,  after 
the  manner  of  the  St.  Chapelle  at  Paris.  Suspended  over 
the  western  gallery,  and  near  the  grand  altar,  is  an  immense 
wooden  crucifix.  This  was  brought  from  France  two  cen- 
turies ago,  and  was  first  set  up  in  the  church  built  on  the 
ground  now  Place  d'Arms.  Adjoining  Notre  Dame  is  the 
venerable  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  with  its  old  gateway, 
courtyard  and  clock.  The  gentlemen  of  this  seminary 
originally  iield  valuable  rights  affecting  the  entire  island  of 
Montreal ;  much  of  the  land  yet  remains  in  their  hands. 
With  the  wealth  thus  brought  to  their  coffers  they  have  lib- 


T-*-  — 


mm. 


.Y^»^,^^.....rw.- 


has  offi- 
letters  of 
erve  fund 
Montreal 
lid  struc- 
ibove  the 
et,  where 
•  the  sale 
hoisery, 
now  es- 

I  be  glad 

Other 

Jacques 

On   the 

3f  Notre 

Norman 

Ith.     Its    ^^ 

the  larg-      , 


:^.-:  .■'■-:  107        ■.  ^.  , -■  '''■•■,  -.-^v 

erally  established  and  conducted  many  institutions  of 
charity  and  education  scattered  throughout  the  city.  We 
are  now  on  Notre  Dame  street,  the  chief  retail  street  in 
Montreal.  Turning  eastward  a  few  feet  from  Notre  Dame 
church,  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  street,  you  arrive  at  No. 
1691,  where  is  located  the  Snow  Shoe  Cafe,  managed  by  W. 
H.  H.  Murray,  of  Adirondack  fame,  who  invites  you  to  call 
and  inspect  his  goods.  Opposite  is  R.  Sharpley  &  Sons, 
which  will  well  repay  a  visit.  A  little  above  on  the  left,  is 
1 67 1,  J.  &  E.  McEntyre,  merchant  tailors.  They  make  all 
my  clothes,  therefore,  if  they  can  fit  me  further  comments  are 
unnecessary.  A  little  above  is  Lanthier  &  Co.  Let  us  go 
on  we  shall  soon  arrive  at  the  Court  House,  a  fine  Grecian 
building,  of  simple  and  massive  appearance.  A  few  steps 
further  on  the  right  brings  us  to  Nelson's  monument,  setting 
forth  in  bas-relief  the  various  victories  which  the  great  naval 
hero  won  \/ithout  the  loss  of  a  single  British  ship.  This 
monument  is  in  Jacques  Cartier  square,  at  the  foot  of  which 
is  the  wharf  of  the  Quebec  steamers. 

Keeping  on  Notre  Dame  street,  directly  beside  the  mon- 
ument, we  find  opposite  to  each  other  two  buildings  which 
form  a  sharp  contrast.  The  one  on  the  left  is  the  new  City 
Hall,  a  lofty  and  ornate  specimen  of  French  architecture ; 
facing  it  is  the  "  old  chateau,"  a  structure  probably  thought 
very  fine  a  century  ago,  when  Benjamin  Franklin  set  up  in 
it  the  first  printing  press  ever  used  in  the  city.  Now  the 
old  place  is  a  Normal  School,  and  the  discoveries  of  the 
illustrious  American  is  explained  there,  and  let  us  hope  his 
witty  sayings  repeated  and  acted  upon.  We  can  now  take 
our  way  to  the  river  side,  and  a  block  from  Jacques  Cartier 
Square  shall  find  Bonsecours  Market,  a  vast  substantial 


rdS 


Doric  structure.  Here,  if  it  be  market  day,  we  may 
see  a  little  of  the  French  Canadian  peasantry,  dad  in 
their  home-spun,  and  bargaining  about  their  fowls,  or  eggs 
or  butter  with  many  queer  words  and  phrases  now  almost 
forgotten  in  the  Normandy  whence  they  were  first  brought. 
Next  to  the  market  is  Bonsecours  Church,  a  rough-cast 
building  with  a  high-pitched  roof,  and  with  a  breadth  of  a 
few  feet  adjoining  it,  occupied  by  cobblers  and  cake  shops. 
This  church  is  the  oldest  Romar  Catholic  one  in  the  city ; 
its  entrance  is  at  the  farther  side  ;  rarely  is  it  unoccupied 
by  some  worshippers  from  the  adjacenc  market,  who  bring 
in,  without  ceremony,  their  baskets  and  bundles.  Sus- 
pended over  the  altar  is  a  model  of  a  ship  in  bright  tin,  in 
which  usually  burning  tapers  are  placed.  Returning,  on  the 
■water-front,  we  note  the  ships  and  steamers  from  Liverpool, 
Glasgow,  London,  Havre,  Rotterdam  and  other  p)orts :  and 
on  the  right  successively  pass  the  Custom  House,  a  triangu- 
lar building,  with  a  clock  tow^r;  the  office  of  the  Allan 
Line,  also  having  a  clock  ;  and  the  fine  building  of  the  Har- 
bor Commissioners.  Next  to  it  is  a  curious  looking  pile, 
with  external  hoist-ways  from  top  to  bottom,  this  is  the  Cus- 
toms Examining  Warehouse.  Before  we  leave  this  vicinity, 
we  shall  glance  backward  at  the  street  from  Allan's  office  to 
the  Custom  House. 

Taking  a  short  journey,  still  upon  the  river-front,  we  come 
to  the  great  works  of  stone  masonry,  which  give  to  Mon- 
treal an  enlarged  canal  to  Lachine,  so  that  vessels  of  much 
greater  tonnage  than  the  ones  at  present  used  may  be  em- 
ployed in  the  grain  trade.  This  enterprise  is  one  of  a  series 
of  canal  improvements  by  which  Canada  strives  to  retain 
and  increase  its  business  as  a  highway  for  the  shipment  of 
western  produce  to  the  seaboard. 


'*w.^r 


'•M: 


3 


£!MtWlXbaaC££'. 


££££2SSUck, 


we  may 
clad  in 
or  eggs 
w  almost 
brought, 
ough-cast 
idth  of  a 
f<*  shops, 
the  city ; 
occupied 
'ho  bring 
8.      Sus- 
ht  tin,  in 
g,  on  the 
iverpool, 
rts:  and 
triangu- 
le  Allan 
:he  Har- 
ng  pile, 
he  Cus- 
Wcinity, 
)ffice  to 

e  come 
3  Mon- 
'  much 
be  em- 
i  series 
retain 
lent  of 


109 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  take  the  wide  street  running  up 
from  the  city,  McGill,  and  mark  the  fine  warehouses  that 
adorn  it.  Arriving  at  Notre  Dame  street,  a  little  above,  on 
the  left,  John  Murphy  &  Co.,  who  invite  you  to  inspect  their 
stock,  styles  and  prices.  Adjoining  is  Mr.  S.  Carsley,  wha 
occupies  the  six  or  seven  stores  in  succession,  which  you 
are  invited  to  inspect,  and  I  am  positive  you  will  be  as 
favorably  impressed  as  I  was.  Retracing  cur  steps  back  ta 
McGill  street,  we  turn  to  the  right,  ".nd  immediately  in  front, 
just  one  block  is  Victoria  Square,  which  contains  a  statue 
of  the  Queen,  by  Marshall  Wood.  Comer  St.  James  street 
opposite,  on  the  left  is  the  Albert  Buildings.  Turning  tO' 
the  right  we  enter  St.  James  street,  the  first  building  of  note, 
on  the  right  is  the  Ottawa  Buildings,  on  the  left  k  J.  J.  Milloy, 
the  Tailor,  where  tailor-made  suits  for  ladies  are  a  specialty,  a 
little  further  on  the  right  is  G.  W.  Clark,  The  Souvenir 
Palace,  and  a  little  above  is  Drysdale  &  Co.,  where  any  re- 
ligious book  may  be  had.  Seaside  Library,  stationery,  etc.  On 
our  way  to  the  Post  Office  from  whence  we  started,  we  come 
to  319,  "Alexanders,"  the  confectioner,  the  Huyler  of 
Canada.  At  the  corner  of  St.  Peter  street  is  the  Mechanics'^ 
Institute.  This  building  contains  a  good  library,  the  admis- 
sion fee  to  which  is  only  nominal ;  and  a  very  good  reading- 
room,  haiving  on  its  tables  the  principal  dailies  of  America^ 
the  London  Times,  the  Glasgow  Herald,  the  Dublin  Warder, 
the  Edinburgh  Scotsman,  and  ail  the  weeklies,  monthlies, 
and  quarterlies  of  both  England  and  the  United  States. 
Strangers  can  have  free  access  to  this  reading-room,  for  the 
period  of  two  weeks,  by  applying  to  Mr.  Hogan,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall. 

Opposite  to  the  Mechanics'  Institute  is  the  Merchants' 


'::  \ 


: 

I 

!  ■; 
I' 


\- 


i 


! 


110  \  \ 

Bank,  built  in  modern  Italian  style,  with  polished  granite 
columns  at  the  entrance  ;  the  interior  of  this  bank  should 
be  seen ;  the  main  office  is  carried  up  two  stories  in  height, 
and  is  beautifully  frescoed.  Diagonally  across  the  street  is 
Molson's  Bank,  also  of  Italian  design,  and  richly  decorated. 
We  are  now  nearly  at  the  hotel  again,  where  we  may  con- 
clude for  the  present  our  inspection  of  the  city. 

Resuming  our  sight-seeing,  we  shall  now  leave  behind  us 
the  business  streets,  and  take  our  way  to  the  upper  part  of 
Montreal.     Our  suggestion  is,  take  St.  James  street  to  the 
first  crossing  on  the  right  as  you  leave  the  hotel,  St.  Peter 
street.     After  two  blocks  this  streer  changes  its  name  to 
Bleury  street.     (When  if  yo-i  find  you  are  foot    ore  you  can 
turn  to  the  left,  to  the  end  of  the  block  on  Craig  street  No, 
1722,  where  is  located  the  celebrated  Surgeon  Chiropodist, 
Prof.  Harris,   who  will  attend  to  any  trouble  of  the  feet, 
that  will  be  sure  to  make  your  walk  a  pleasant  one,  provided 
you  are  like  me,  suffering  from  corns,  bunions  or  ingrowing 
nails.)     At  No.   17   Bleury  street,  we  may  enter  Notman's 
studio,  a  large  handsome  building  entirely  devoted  to  pho- 
tographic art.     Here  we  may  spend  half  an  hour  very  pleas- 
antly in  looking  over  views  of  Canadian  scenery,  and  poi 
traits  taken  singly,  or  skillfully  grouped,  representing  the 
dports   and   pastimes  of  our  winter.     The  chief  of  these 
pictures  is  that  which  shows  a  carnival  held  at  the  Victoria 
Skating  Rink,  seven  years  ago,  when  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Ar- 
thur was  present.     This  photographic  marvel,  with  others 
now  surrounding  it  on  the  walls  of  Mr,  Notman,  attracted 
great  attention  and  admiration  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition. 
Mr.  Notman  was  photographer  to  the  Exhibition  and  re- 
ceived its  highest  awards. 


y  Bi 


—•»mm^: 


umtmtevi." 


5SSSC 


y. 


til 


fl  granite 
k  should 
in  height, 
■  street  is 
ecorated. 
may  con- 

>ehind  us 
Jr  part  of 
et  to  the 
St.  Peter 
name  to 
-  you  can 
treet  No. 
ropodist, 
the  feet, 
srovided   - 
growing 
otman's 
to  pho- 
y  pleas- 
nd  poi 
ing  the 
f  these 
'^ictoria 
ice  Ar- 
others 
Tacted 
bition. 
nd  re- 


Continuing  on  Bleury  street,  we  soon  reach  on  the  left 
the  Church  of  the  Jesu,  uith  St.  Mary's  College  ^djoini'^g 
it,  conducted  by  the  Jesuit  fathers.  This  church  ibinodeled 
after  one  of  tiie  same  name  at  Rome,  where  the  remains 
of  Loyola  are  entombed.  The  style  of  architecture  is  the 
round  Roman  arch.  The  interior  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful among  American  churches.  Over  the  high  altar  is  a 
fresco  of  the  crucifixion.  In  the  southern  transept  the  suf- 
ferings of  the  first  Canadian  martyr,  burnt  by  savages,  are 
depicted.  Leaving  the  elegant  house  of  prayer,  we  shall 
continue  on  Bleury  street  until  we  come  to  St.  Catharine 
street.  A  few  steps  brings  us  to  the  Nazareth  Asylum  for 
the  Blind,  attached  to  which  (No.  1091)  is  a  most  ornate 
chapel,  decorated  in  such  a  lovely  manner  as  to  lead  one  to 
suppose  that  it  was  done  to  encourage  the  suffering  inmates 
of  the  asylum  to  see. 

The  next  building  on  the  side  of  the  street  (No.  1077,)  is 
the  Roman  Catholic  Commercial  Academy,  a  lordly  monu- 
ment of  wealth  and  munificence,  containing  all  the  modem 
appliances  for  the  practical  training  of  youth,  and  presided 
over  by  an  able  staff  of  professors.  If  we  keep  going  east- 
ward on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  pass  on  St.  Dennis  street, 
the  immense  parish  church  of  St.  James,  with  the  tallest 
spire^in  the  city.  Near  by  the  new  church  which  is  dedi- 
cated to  Notre  Dame  de  Lourdes ,  water  and  relics  from 
her  shrine  at  Lourdes  in  France,  are  for  sale  in  the  base- 
ment.    Adjoining  the  church  are  its  conventual  buildings. 

Returning  on  St.  Catharine  street,  we  soon  corne  to  Christ 
Church  Cathedral  (Church  of  England),  unquestionably  the 
most  beautiful  specimen  of  gothic  architecture  in  Canada. 
It  is  of  cruciform  design;  its  extreme  width  is   loo  feet. 


m 


■. 


iia 

The  spire,  which  is  entirely  of  stone,  rises  to  a  height  of  224 
feet.  The  mat  ■"Is  of  construction  are  Montreal  lime- 
stone and  stone  fi  -n  Caen,  in  Normandy,  which  latter,  by 
exposure  to  the  weather,  has  changed  from  almost  pure 
whiteness  to  a  yellow  tint.  On  the  grounds  of  the  cathe- 
dral are  erected  the  residences  of  the  bishop  and  his  assist- 
ants, the  Synod  Hall,  and  also  a  fine  monument  to  Bish(>j> 
Fulford,  the  first  Metropolitan  of  Canada.  The  street  run- 
ning on  the  farther  side  of  the  cathedral  is  University  street, 
and  No.  82,  one  block  distant,  is  the  Natural  History 
Museum,  containing  a  good  Canadian  collection.  Univer- 
sity street  leads  us  down  to  Dorchester  street,  on  the  comer 
of  which  is  the  St.  James  Club  House.  Taking  Dorchester 
street  eastward,  we  pass  on  the  left  St.  Paul's  church  (Pres- 
byterian). On  the  same  side  we  soon  have  a  view  of  the 
vast  proportions  of  the  new  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  iri 
course  of  construction. 

Across  the  square  on  which  St.  Peters  is  building,  we  no- 
tice a  beautiful  church,  St.  Georges  (Church  of  England), 
and  adjoining  it  is  its  Sunday  school,  the  largest  and  best 
conducted  in  Canada.  On  Dorchester  street,  fronting  Do- 
minion Square,  on  Peel  street,  is  ihe  Windsor  Hotel.  Next 
beyond  on  Dorchester  street  k  the  Victoria  Skating  Rinh, 
where  immense  carnivals  are  held  in  the  winter,  the  grand- 
est in  the  world ;  in  the  summer  the  spacious  edifice  is  used 
for  concerts,  walking  matches,  public  gatherings,  meetings, 
etc.  Two  blocks  distant  is  the  Foundling  Hospital  of  the 
Gray  Nun— a  visit  to  which  is  thus  described :  A  long  pro- 
cession of  the  nuiis  marched  slowly  into  the  chapel  and 
knelt  in  prayer.  Each  nun  had  a  crucifix  and  a  string  of 
beads  attached,  and  whatever  may  have  been  the  case  with 


■■J»lii.»i;if 


'M  of  224 

eal   lime- 
latter,  by 
lost  pure 
cathe- 
his  assL't- 
to  Bish('j> 
reet  run- 
ity  street, 
I  History 
Univer- 
he  comer 
orchester 
Ich  (Pres- 
;w  of  the 
edral,  in 


113 

their  thoughts,  their  eyes  never  wandered,  notwithstanding 
strangers  were  gazing  at  them.  Some  were  young  and 
pretty,  others  old  and  plain,  but  the  sacred  character  of 
their  labor  of  love  invested  th»"n  all  with  beauty.  We  said 
the  eyes  of  none  wandered.  Pei.iaps  we  ought  to  confess 
that  the  quick,  sharp  glance  of  one,  apparently  younger 
than  the  others,  stared  us  for  a  moment ;  but  ^  was  only 
curiosity — womanly  curiosity — and  what  woman  has  not 
the  curiosity  to  look  at  me.  Yet  that  moment  was  fruitful 
of  thought,  and  as  we  saw  the  sad,  dark-eyed  beauty  rise 
in  her  place  and  mechanically  follow  her  more  staid  sisters, 
our  mind  v/ent  back  to  the  days  of  chivalry,  when  gallant 
knights  rode  with  lance  at  rest,  or  wielded  the  heavy  battle- 
axe  in  heroic  deeds  that  they  might  win  recognition  from 
the  proud  ladi>:s  who  looked  dotvn  upon  them.  And  as  we 
thought,  it  seemed  that  the  most  gall.<int  deeds  which  men 
of  this  nineteenth  century  might  do,  would  be  to  rescue 
young  and  pretty  nuns — who  wanted  to  be  rescued  from 
the  silence  and  sadness  of  the  nunnery. 

We  are  now  arrested  by  an  immense  structure  even 
larger  than  the  institution  just  passed  ;  it  is  the  Montreal 
college,  which  educates  ecclesiastics,  and  also  day  pupils, 
and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Sulpician  fathers.  The  two 
Martello  towers  in  front  of  the  college  are  relics  of  the 
times  when  incessant  strife  raged  between  the  settlers  and 
the  Indians.  Sherbrooke  Street  is  adorned  with  the  private 
residences  for  which  the  citizens  of  Montreal  are  proud, 
and  in  your  drive  around  the  town,  previous  to  or  after  re- 
turning from  your  Park  Mountain  drive,  it  will  repay  one 
to  drive  through  Sherbrooke,  Dennis  and  Dorchester  streets. 
The  McGill  College,  University  and  spacious  grounds  are 
the  next  points.  , 


m*npniMk>V>*o 


m 


114 


As  we  i)ass  along  Sherbrooke  street,  in  the  distance  we 
observe,  as  we  glance  up  St.  Famille  street,  the  enormous 
Hotel  l>ieu,  with  a  large  bright  dome,  a  f'ce  hospital  for 
all,  under  Roman  Catholic  direction. 

Returning  to  tiie  Post  Office,  preferably  by  Beaver  Hall 
Hill,  we  slull  not  fail  to  be  struck  by  the  number  of  band- 
some  churches  erected  there  together.  On  the  right  is  the 
Unitarian  church,  on  the  left,  successively  a  Presbyterian, 
Baptist,  and  Jewish  synagogue.  Near  by  on  Craig  street, 
is  a  towered  building  occupied  by  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association. 

We  are  soon  at  the  New  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  and  before 
mentioning  the  drives  that  may  be  taken  outside  the  city, 
ir  may  be  well  to  call  attention  to  a  few  places  near  at  hand 
a  business  man  or  a  student  may  be  interested  in  visiting : 
The  Corn  Exchange,  foot  of  St.  John  street,  the  Merchants' 
Exchange,  St.  Sacrament  street,  the  office  of  the  Telegraph 
Co.,  and  the  Open  Stock  Exchange,  St.  Francis  Xavier 
street.  Near  the  beginning  of  St.  James  street,  on  St. 
Gabriel  street,  is  the  Geological  Museum,  open  daily  from 
10  to  4,  containing  an  admirable  collection  of  North  Amer- 
ican minerals,  and  many  interesting  fossils.  Here  may  be 
seen,  what  many  geologists  regard  as  the  most  primitive 
record  of  life,  the  Eoxoon  Canaddense,  first  noticed  at 
Perth,  Ontario,  by  a  Mr.  Wilson.  From  the  fact  that  the 
oldest  fossil-bearing  stratum,  the  Laurentian,  is  the  back- 
bone, geographically,  of  Canada,  and  because  of  the  great 
variety  of  rocks  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Mon- 
treal, this  museum  is  particularly  attractive  to  a  lover  of 
science.     An  effort  is  on  foot  to  deprive  the  city  of  this  col- 


r? 


Mistanfce  we 

le  enormous 

hospital  for 


Heaver  Hall 
>er  of  band- 
right  is  the 
reshyterian, 
-raig  street, 
lien's  Chris- 

and  before 

e  the  city, 
»ear  at  hand 
in  visiting : 
Merchants' 

Telegraph 
icis  Xavier 
-et,  on  St. 
daily  from 
3rth  Amer- 
•e  may  be 

primitive 
loticed  at 
t  that  the 
the  back- 
the  great 

of  Mon- 

lover  of 
r  this  col- 


'  I.,:  »*;'j!^y 


"5 

lection,  and,  for  the  sake  of  centralization,  remove  it  to 
Ottawa.  I  oiTcr  this  as  an  apology  in  case  it  should  be 
removed. 

DRIVES. 

As  I  have  said  two  or  three  times,  by  far  the  most  pleas- 
ant drive  is  up  the  brow  of  Mount  Royal,  ;alicd  the  Park 
Mountain  drive.  There  are,  presumably,  two  roads :  the 
shorter  returns  by  McTavish  street,  the  other  by  Bleury. 
The  park  was  laid  out  by  Mr.  Olmstead,  Jthe  designer  of 
Central  Park,  New  York,  whose  achievemeu's  there  were 
recognized  by  a  statue  adorning  one  of  the  entrrnces.  The 
river  view  from  Mount  Royal  is  delightful,  and  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated.  I  dare  not  attempt  to  describe  it. 
A  suggestion  of  how  to  get  a  [hundred  pictures  of  every 
conceivable  shape  or  form  of  landscape  views,  containing 
mountain,  plain,  river,  lake,  hillside,  valley,  etc.,  etc.,  is  to 
close  the  eye,  place  the  hands  on  each  end  of  the  forehead, 
and  every  time  the  carriage  moves  a  hundred  feet  open  the 
eyes  and  you  have  an  entire  new  picture.  Keep  this  up 
until  you  have  had  an  elegant  sufficiency  of  view.  The 
next  drive  is  around  the  mountain,  and  was  the  best  until 
the  completion  of  the  Park  Mountain  drive ;  it  is  pleasant 
and  attractive  when  it  includes  a  drive  to  the  Catholic  and 
Protestant  cemeteries,  giving  a  view  of  the  monuments  and 
tombs.  The  drive  to  Lachine  is  next,  and  is  of  interest. 
The  drive  to  Longue  Point,  along  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the 
opposite  direction  to  the  last,  gives  us  an  entirely  different 
kind  of  scenery.  It  takes  us  through  the  village  of  Hoch- 
elaga,  the  termmus  of  the  new  railroad,  the  Quebec,  Mon- 
treal, Ottawa  and  Occidental,  which  runs  along  the  north 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  develops  tracts  of  country 


i  0 

il 


'i 


!  M 


ii6 

as  yet  unbenefitted  by  the  iron  horse.     About  a  mile  from 
the  depot  is  the  beautiful  convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the 
Holy  Names  of  Jesus  and  Mary.     Many  young  ladies  from 
the   United  States  have  been   educated   at   this  convent. 
The  next  noteworthy  building  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum.    This 
immense  house  containing  nearly  300  maniacs,  idiots  and 
imbeciles,  is  controlled  by  the  sisters  of  Providence ;  these 
ladies,  with  the  exception  of   six  guardians  for  desperate 
characters,  and  a  physician,  have  sole  charge.     They  find  no 
trouble  in  the  care  of  the  numerous  inmates,  and  by  their 
kindness  and  tact  restore  mental  balance,  in  all  the  cases 
were  cure  is  possible,  in  a  tiche  the  time  it  used  to  take  in 
the  old  days  when  the  insane  were  treated  with  harshness 
and  cruelty.     On  our  way  to  Longue  Point,  the  villages  of 
Longueuil,  Boucherville  and  Varennes  lie  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river.     The  drive  to  the   Black  river  is  an  at- 
tractive one,  and  with  citizens  the  most  popular  of  all ;  the 
beautiful  convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is  situated  here,  and 
its  grounds,  finely  laid  out,  lead  directly  to  the  water's  edge. 
The  bridge  which  spans  the  river  at  this  place^-a  branch 
of  the  Ottawa — affords  one  of  the  characteristic  sights  of 
Canada,  the  piloting  of  a  raft  through  a  tortuoas  channel. 
The   size  of  an  ordinary  raft,  its  great  value,  from  $100,- 
000  to  $300,000,  the  excitement  of  the   captain  and  his 
French  and   Indian  crew,  with  the  constant  perils  threaten- 
ing the  whole  structure,  all  conjoin  to  make  up  a  scene  to 
be   dwelt  upon  and  long  remembered.     Thus  hoping  the 
sftme  will  be  said  of  your  visit  to  Montreal,  I  shall  advise 
all  to  visit 

QUEBEC. 
Tourists  can  take  either  the   Grand  Trunk,  the  North 
Shore,  or  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Go's  line  of 


i 


^  'i 


ut  a  mile  from 
Sisters  of  the 
ing  ladies  from 
this  convent. 
Asylum.    This 
acs,  idiots  and 
vidence;  these 
for  desperate 
They  find  no 
i,  and  by  their 
n  all  the  cases 
ised  to  take  in 
with  harshness 
the  villages  of 
)n  the  opposite 
liver  is  an  at- 
ilarofall;  the 
ated  here,  and 
i  water's  edge, 
ce^-a  branch 
istic  sights  of 
Lioas  channel. 
1  from  $ioo,- 
ptain  and  his 
srils  threaten- 
ip  a  scene  to 
5  hoping  the 
shall  advise 


f,  the  North 
Go's  line  of 


-     ■  •  :  ■■  -     •  ■tt7 

steamers.  Tickets  can  be  procured  of  the  Company's  agent 
opposite  the  New  St.  Lawrence  Hall  building,  where  state- 
rooms, etc.,  may  be  secured.  I  assume  that  the  river  is 
the  route  selected,  and  that  the  reader  is  fairly  on  his  way 
to  that  ancient  city  and  former  capital.  Passing  a  group  of 
islands  below  Montreal  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa  river, 
we  soon  arrive  at 

SOREL, 

forty-five  miles  below — the  first  landing  made  by  the  steam- 
er.    It  was  built  upon  the  site  of  a  fort  built  in  1755,  by  M 
De  Tracy  and  was  for  many  years  the  summer  residence  of 
many  successive  Governors  of  Canada.     Five  miles  below, 
the  broad  expanse  of  the  river  is  called 

LAKE  ST.  PETER, 

wh'ch  is  about  nine  miles  wide.  The  St.  Francis  river 
enters  here.  Large  rafts  are  observed  here  slowly  floating 
to  the  great  mart  at  Quebec. 

THREE  RIVERS 

is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  River  St.  Maurice  and 
St.  Lawrence,  'linety  miles  below  Montreal,  and  the  same 
distance  above  Quebec.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  settled 
towns  in  Canada,  having  been  founded  in  16 18.  It  is  well 
laid  out  and  contains  many  good  buildings,  among  which 
are  the  Court  House,  the  Goal,  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  the  English  and  Wesleyan 
churches.     The  population  of  Three  Rivers  is  about  9,200. 


i 


i! 


itti 


BATISCAN 

is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  river,  one-hundred  and 
^  seventeen  miles  below  Montreal.     It  is  the  last  place  the 

'I  steamers  stop  before  reaching  Quebec.     It  is  a  place  of  lit- 

,,)  tie  importance. 

l[  In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal  the 
I  country  upon  its  banks  presents  a  sameness  in  its  general 
l'  scenery,  until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of  Quebec.     The 
jj,     ■        villages  and  hamlets  are  decidedly  French  in  character,  gen- 
ii, erally  made  up  of  small  buildings,  the  better  class  of  which 
I  f re  painted  white. or  whitewashed,  with  red  roofs.     Prom- 
I  inent  in  the  distance  appear  the  tile-covered  spires  of  the 
[p  Catholic  churches,  which  are  all  constructed  in  that  unique 
I  style  of  architecture  so  peculiar  to  that  church. 
I  Dui       your  stay  in  Quebec  stop  at  the  St.  Louis  Hotel 
\.  and  if  carnages  are  desired  the  hotel  will  furnish  the  same' 
1^  This  was  made  necessary  in  order  to  stop  the  imposition 
'  that  IS  practiced  by  out-side  parties. 
I' 

j;  city  of  QUEBEC. 

f  Quebec,  by  its  historic  fame  and  its  unequalled  scenery, 

IS  no  ordinary  or  common-place  city,  for  though,  like  other 
large  communities,  it  carries  on  trade,  commerce  and  manu- 
;  factures ;  cultivates  art,  science  and  literature ;  abounds  in 

I  chanties,  and  professes  special  regard  to  the  amenities  of 

;  soaal  life,  it  claims  particular  attention  as  being  a  striking- 

I  ly  unique  old  place,  the  stronghold  of  Canada,  and,  in  fact, 

;  the   Key  of  the  Province.     Viewed  from   any   of  its  ap- 

proaches,  it  impresses  the  stranger  with  the  conviction  of 
strength  and  permanency.     The  reader  of  American  his- 


, 


'^'yii)?W.a!'M."it-..'"ff>',''    ..  W.'.'-..';;.'!"4.1W->'i"j>;«'--!.Jji-'!:  iJ'.'.'.J.iV..  '■^S1,^V^.U^■■..-'J1I^1'' 4.''t !i^./!I^M''..^  M'',' l'^ '-;'<(. ; 


hundred  and 
»st  place  the 
place  of  Ijt- 

fontreal,  the 
1  its  general 
ebec.     The 
aracter,  gen- 
«s  of  which 
ofs.     Prom- 
pires  of  the 
'that  unique 

-ouis  Hotel, 

h  the  same. 

imposition 


•d  scenery, 
h'ke  other 
ind  manu- 
bounds  in 
lenities  of 
I  striking- 
i>  in  fact, 
if  its  ap- 
k'iction  of 
lean  his* 


':r''--:  ■;  .   -     :'.  '   "-        119  --•:  •    ■       ■•;  ..,.■•  :^  ' 

tory,  on  entering  its  gates  or  wandering  over  its  squares, 
ramparts  and  battle  fields,  puts  himself  at  once  in  commun- 
ion with  the  illustrious  dead.  The  achievements  of  daring 
mariners,  the  labors  of  self-sacrificing  Missionaries  of  the 
Cross,  and  the  conflicts  of  military  heroes,  who  bled  and 
died  in  the  assault  and  defence  of  its  walls,  are  here  re-read 
with  ten-fold  interest.  Then  the  lover  of  nature  in  her 
grandest  and  most  rugged,  as  in  her  gentler  and  most  smil- 
ing forms,  will  find  in  and  around  it  an  affluence  of  sublime 
and  beautiful  objectc.  The  man  of  science,  too,  may  be 
equally  gratified,  for  here  the  great  forces  of  nature  and 
secret  alchemy  may  be  studied  with  advantage.  Quebec 
can  never  be  a  tame  or  insipid  place,  and  with  moderate 
opportunities  for  advancement,  it  must  become  one  of  the 
greatest  cities  of  the  New  World  in  respect  to  learning,  art, 
commerce  and  manufactures. 

The  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  Samuel  de  Cham- 
plain,  in  1608.  In  1622  the  population  was  reduced  to 
fifty  souls. 

In  June,  1759,  the  English  army  under  General  Wolfe 
landed  upon  the  Island  of  Orleans.  On  the  1 2th  of  Sept- 
tember  took  place  the  celebrated  battl"  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  Wolfe,  and  the  de- 
feat of  the  French  army.  A  force  of  5,000  English  troops, 
under  General  Murray,  were  left  to  garrison  the  fort.  The 
city  is  very  interesting  to  a  stranger;  it  is  the  only  walled 
city  in  North  America. 

Cape  Diamond,  upon  which  the  citadel  stands,  is  three 
hundred  and  forty-five  feet  in  height,  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  quantity  of  crystal  mixed  with  the  granite  below 
its  surface.  The  fortress  includes  the  whole  space  on  the 
Cape. 


-/' 


lid 


( 
I 


^JSJF«P  ^!F  JPJIE*^ 


i„- 


aial  %mi%  m^itl. 


•^QaEBEC-ji- 


t-yr-V-yj-'Tf?'-^'  ''•":,'n*."- 


■H^5-vJ,,,  ■,,!;^iifijii)u.^-AimJi{.i 


^rf'^-'iflf(!^f!i%9f:^i.'-'!f^'f9WV^-'^ 


■  iiV; 


M, 


..•:-;■■■ -■-■■;■.     :■;   ■  .-^-^r^y;-      121  :  v^-,.'- fs>.' 

Above  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery  was  killed  is 
now  the  inclined  place,  running  to  the  top  of  the  bank  ;  it 
is  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  is  used  by  the  Government  to 
convey  stores  and  other  articles  of  great  weight  to  the  for- 
tress. :' 
THE  CITADEL, 

will  perhaps  prove  the  point  of  greatest  interest  to  many, 
from  the  historical  associations  connected  therewith,  and 
from  the  fact  that  it  is  considered  an  impregnable  fortress. 
It  covers  an  enclosed  area  of  forty  acres,  and  is  some  three 
huno/ed  and  forty  feet  above  the  river  level.  The  zigzag 
passages  through  which  you  enter  the  fortress,  between  high 
and  massive  granite  walls,  is  swept  by  every  turn  by  formid- 
able batteries  of  heavy  guns.  On  the  forbidding  river  walls 
and  at  each  angle  or  possible  commanding  point,  guns  of 
heavy  calibre  sweep  every  avenue  of  approach  by  the  river. 
Ditches,  breast  works  and  frowning  batteries  command  the 
approaches  by  land  from  the  famed  "  Plains  of  Abraham." 
The  precipitous  bluffs,  rising  almost  perpendicularly  from 
the  river .  three  humlred  and  forty  feet,  present  a  natural 
barrier  which  may  be  swept  with  murderous  fire,  and  the 
covered  ways  of  approach  and  retreat,  the  various  kinds 
and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers  and  munitions  of 
war,  will  be  viewed  with  eager  interest.  Among  the  places 
of  note  may  be  mentioned  :  The  plains  of  Abraham,  with 
its  humble  monument,  marking  the  place  where  fell  the 
illustrious  Wolfe ;  the  Governor's  Garden,  with  its  monu- 
ment to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm ;  the  spot  where  fell  the 
American  General,  Montgomery ;  St.  John's  Gate,  the  only 
gate  remaining  of  the  five  that  originally  pierced  the  walls 
of  the  city;  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  with  its  many 


^M««»>MR:«<«MMHm«l«(H 


122 


fine  old  paintings ;  the  Episcopal  Cathedral ;  the  Esplanade, 
from  which  is  one  of  the  finest  views  in  the  world  j  Houj'.s 
of  Parliament ;  Spencer  Wood,  the  residence  of  the  Lieut. 
Governor ;  Laval  University,  &c.,  &c. 

The  city  and  environs  abound  in  drives,  varying  from 
five  to  thirty  miles,  in  addition  to  being  on  the  direct  line  of 
travel  to  the  far-famed  Saguenay,  Murray  Bay,  Kamour- 
aska,  Gacouna,  Rimouski,  Gaspe,  and  other  noted  watering 
places. 

Quebec  can  minister  abundantly  to  the  tastes  of  those 
who  like  to  yacht,  fish  or  shoot.  Yachting,  in  fact,  has  be- 
come of  late  the  leading  recreation  in  Quebec.  You  can 
on  those  mellow  Saturday  afternoons  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember, meet  the  whole  sporting  and  fashionable  world  of 
Upper  Town  on  the  Durham  Terrace  or  Lower  Town 
wharves,  bent  on  witnessing  a  trial  of  speed  or  seamanship 
between  the  Mouette,  the  Black  Hawk,  the  IVasp,  the  Shan- 
non, the  Bon  Homme  Richard,  and  half  a  score  of  crack 
yaclits  with  their  owners. 

Let  us  see  what  the  city  contains: — First,  the  west  wing, 
built  about  1789,  by  Governor  Haldimand,  to  enlarge  the 
old  chateau  burnt  down  in  January,  1734;  this  mouldering 
pile,  now  used  as  the  Normal  School,  is  all  that  remains  of 
the  stately  edifice  of  old,  over-hanging  and  facing  the  Cul- 
de-Sac,  where  the  lordly  Count  de  P'rontenac  held  his  quasi 
regal  court  in  1691  :  next,  the  Laval  University,  founded  in 
1854,  conferring  degrv^es  under  its  loyal  charter ;  the  course 
of  study  is  similar  to  t  lat  of  the  celebrated  European  Uni- 
versity of  Louvain;  then  there  is  the  Quebec  Seminary, 
erected  by  Bishop  Laval,  at  Montmorency,  in  1663;  the 
Ursuline  Convent,  founded  in  i6?6  by  Madame  de  la  Pel- 


,1..    I  ■  .■  ■ 


177 n    »    • 


[Esplanade, 

Id;  Houjcs 

the  Lieut. 

■ying  from 
rect  line  of 
Kamour- 
d  watering 

!s  of  those 
-t,  has  be- 
You  can 
and  Sep. 
e  world  of 
*^er  Town 
amanship 

of  crack 

est  wing, 
large  the 
uldenng 
Bains  of 
the  Cul- 
lis  quasi 
nded  in 
■  course 
m  Uni- 
ninaiy, 
j;  the 
la  Pel. 


i 


trie;  this  nunnery,  with  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
which  was  built  in  1646,  contains  many  valuable  paintings, 
which  left  France  about  1789;  the  General  Hospital, 
founded  two  centuries  ago  by  Monseigneur  de  St.  Vallier ; 
in  1759,  it  was  the  chief  hospital  for  the  wounded  and  the 
djring  of  the  memorable  battle  of  the  13  September — Ar- 
nold and  his  Continentals  found  protection  against  the 
rigors  of  a  Canadian  winter  behind  its  walls  in  1775-6  ;  the 
Hotel  Dieu  Nunnery,  close  to  Palace  Gate,  dating  more  than 
200  years  back. 

As  to  the  views  to  be  obtained  from  Durham  Terrace, 
the  Glacis  and  the  Citadel,  they  are  unique  in  grandeur. 
Each  street  has  its  own  familiar  vista  of  the  surrounding 
country.  ,  :,  .^ 

THE  SHRINE  AND  FALLS  OF  STE.  ANNE. 

At  the  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  below  Quebec  is 
the  village  of  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre,  sometimes  called  Ste. 
Anne  du  Nord,  and  always  called  Za  Bonne  Ste.  Anne,  to 
whom  is  consecrated  the  Parish  church,  erected  about  three 
j'ears  ago  by  the  Pope  into  a  shrine  of  the  first  order,  in 
which  is  a  fine  painting  by  the  famous  artist  LeBrun,  Ste. 
Anne  and  the  Virgin,  presented  by  M,  de  Tracy,  viceroy  of 
New  France,  in  1666,  to  the  church,  for  benefits  received. 
The  festival  day  of  this  saint  is  the  26th  of  July,  at  which 
time  thousands  of  pilgrims  proceed  not  only  by  steamer  and 
carriage,  but  on  foot,  to  this  holy  shrine ;  many  walk  the 
whole  distance  from  Quebec  to  the  church  as  a  penance,  or 
in  performance  of  vows.  The  church  is  a  new  building,  the 
old  one  having  been  found  too  small  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  crowds  of  pilgrims  who  resorted  there.    In  it  are 


-I  «i,t&-'^ 


"4 

placed  thousands  of  crutches  left  by  those  who  departed 
after  being  cured  of  the  lameness  and  other  maladies  by  the 
Bonne  Ste.  Anne,- whose  praises  are  world  wide,  for  hither 
congregate  daily  thousands  of  pilgrims  from  all  parts  to  be 
cured  of  their  infirmities.  Deposited  in  the  sanctuary  is  a 
holy  relic,  being  a  finger  bone  of  the  saint  herself,  on  kiss- 
ing which  the  devote*  is  immediately  relieved  of  all  worldly 
ills  and  misfortunes.  Wonder  begins  and  misbelief  vanishes 
on  ga.7.\ng  at  the  piles  of  crutches  ;  there  one  beholds  un- 
mistakable evidence  of  the  unlimited  medicinal  power  of 
the  mother  of  the  Virgin.  Daily  are  the  proofs  of  this 
power ;  the  stranger  can  see  with  his  own  eyes,  the  decrepid, 
the  halt,  the  sore,  the  lame,  the  wounded  carried  into  the 
holy  sanctuary  and  deparl  therefrom,  after  kissing  the  holy 
relic,  cured  and  whole.  Many  are  the  scenes  here  witnessed 
of  the  despairing  filled  with  renewed  hope,  and  the  feeble 
and  faint  glad  again  with  strength  and  health.  Countless 
are  the  anecdotes  of  the  hopelessly  blind  and  lame  return- 
ing to  their  friends  with  sight  and  firm  limbs,  leaving  behind 
them  their  bandages  and  crutches.  Incredulity  vanishes 
before  such  evidence,  and  the  sceptic  leaves  the  shrine  of 
Ste.  Anne  with  convictions  deeply  settled  in  his  soul.  Within 
three  miles  of  the  village  are  the  Falls  of  Ste.  Anne,  which 
consist  of  seven  cascades,  one  of  which  rushes  through  a 
narrow  chasm,  which  can  be  leaped  by  one  of  strong  nerves 
and  sinews,  but  powerful  as  Ste.  Anne  is,  and  devoted  as 
she  is  to  miracles,  it  is  doubtful  whether  even  she  could  save 
the  unfortunate  who  misses  his  leap. 

The  fishing  above  and  below  the  Falls  is  very  good  for  both 
salmon  and  trout,  and  the  scenery  of  that  wild  description 
generally  characteristic  of  the  Laurentian  ranges. 


departed 
idies  by  the 
for  hither 
parts  to  be 
ictuary  is  a 
K  on  kiss- 
all  worldly 
ef  vanishes 
)eholds  un- 
power  of 
>fs  of  this 
'-  decrepid, 
d  into  the 
>g  the  holy 
;  witnessed 
the  feeble 
Countless 
ne  return- 
ng  behind 
'  vanishes 
shrine  of 
I-  Within 
le,  which 
hrough  a 
ig  nerves 
voted  as 
>uld  save 

for  both 
cription 


11.1111  I    ■Miii^  M|i|ir-iT-i]p-TT^-raij  |- J  -      -.-      I  Tu'i  ^('l||iirii  iji^)j]|jg!||j'" 'Wj" 

;r'  MONTMORENCY  FALLS  i 

is  seven  miles  below  Quebec.  The  road  is  very  pleasant, 
passing  through  the  French  village  of  Beauport.  Those  who 
expect  to  see  a  second  Niagara  will  be  very  much  disap- 
pointed. The  stream  descends  in  silvery  threads,  over  a 
precipice  240  feet  in  height,  and,  in  connection  with  the 
surrounding  scenery,  is  extremely  picturesque  and  beautiful, 
but  inspires  none  of  the  awe  felt  at  Niagara. 

POINT   LEVIS, 

on  the  other  side  of  the  river  opposite  Quebec,  will  interest 
the  stranger  very  much,  immense  and  stupendous  fortifica- 
Mons  jeing  in  process  of  erection.  Most  tourists  visiting 
Quebec,  pay  the  Saguenay  a  visit.  The  ticket  office  of 
this  line  is  opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  where  my  genial 
frend,  Mr.  R  M.  Stocking,  will  cheerfully  impart  an)  in- 
formation required,  he  being  the  agent  for  all  railroads  and 
steamboats  in  Canada  that  connect  with  the  same  in  the 
United  States. 


:",*t. 


WE    CALL    THEM    TRAMPS. 


During  the  Centennial  year  many  foreigners  were  always 
found  among  the  list  of  passengers  from  every  country. 
The  proverbial  English  tourist  cannot  be  mistaken  by  any, 
but  this  year,  1876,  we  had  many  who  were  too  green  or 
unsophistical  to  be  in  that  cla.ss.  Now  this  truthful  occur- 
rence which  I  am  about  to  relate  is  original,  and  occurred 
upon  one  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company's 
line  of  boats.  The  Englishman  was  relating  to  his  newly 
found  friend  his  opinion  of  the  United  Sv^tes,  etc.,  in  his 
own  peculiar  style.     Hi  don't  like  this  blatsted  country  you 


-■|: 


...'! 


■^-W>n^ 


;  1 


I  1 


1  ; 


t! 


m 


136  , 

know !  Why,  said  his  friend,  what  fault  can  you  find  with 
America  ?  Oh !  Hi've  been  all  over  it  you  know,  and 
can't  find  any  sawciety  there.  Society,  said  his  friend,  what 
do  you  mean  by  society?  Oh,  dear  me,  you  have  no 
gentlemen  or  gentlemen's  sons  hin  h' America.  Why,  what 
do  you  mean  by  gentlemen  and  gentlemen's  sons?  Oh! 
Hi  mean  gentlemen  who  never  did  any  work  you  know,  nor 
their  sons  either.  Yo:;  make  a  mistake  there,  my  worthy 
friend,  we  have  millions  of  them  here  but  we  call  them 
tramps,  and  I  have  often  thought  it  the  best  definition  to 
a  tramp  I  ever  heard,  for  if  there  are  gentlemen  and  their 
sons  here  who  never  did  any  work  they  will  soon  make 
good  timber  for  tramps  if  they  are  not  already. 

RIVER    SAGUENAY. 

To  the  pleasure-seeker,  oi  to  the  man  of  science,  there 
can  be  nothing  more  refreshing  and  delightful,  anything 
affording  more  food  for  reflection  or  scientific  observation, 
than  a  trip  to  that  most  wonderful  of  rivers,  the  Saguenay. 
On  the  way  thither,  the  scenery  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence 
is  extraordinarily  picturesque ;  a  broad  expanse  of  water 
interspersed  with  rugged  solitary  islets,  highly  cultivated 
islands,  and  islands  covered  with  trees  to  the  water's  edge, 
hemmed  in  by  lofty  and  precipitous  mountains  on  the  one 
side,  and  by  a  continuous  street  of  houses,  relieved  by 
beautifully  situated  villages,  the  spires  of  whose  tin-covered 
churches  glitter  in  the  sunshine,  affords  a  prospect  so  en- 
chanting, that,  were  nothing  else  to  be  seen,  the  tourist 
would  be  well  repaid ;  but  when,  in  addition  to  all  this,  the 
tourist  suddenly  passes  from  a  landscape  unsurpassed  for 
beauty  into  a  region  of  primitive  ^'grandeur,  where  art  has 


'i'ih 


"Wf" 


■".■'iui't'.': 


■T*  'I  ^ir^.<ww  i'i"^i* 


H'h 


'II  find  with 
know,    and 
friend,  what 
3u  have  no 
Why,  what 
ons?     Oh! 
u  know,  nor 
my  worthy 
call  thena 
efinition  to 
and  their 
soon  make 


5nce,  there 
,   anything 
bservation, 
Saguenay. 
Lawrence 
of  water 
cultivated 
er's  edge, 
1  the  one 
lieved  by 
n-covered 
ct  so  en- 
>e  tourist 
I  this,  the 
assed  for 
■  art  has 


127 

done  nothing,  and  nature  everything;  when,  at  a  single 
bound,  civilization  is  left  behind  and  nature  stares  him  in 
the  face,  in  naked  majesty ;  when  he  sees  Alps  on  Alps 
arise  ;  when  he  floats  over  unfathomable  depths,  through  a 
mountain  gorge,  the  sublime  entirely  overwhelms  the  sense 
of  sight  and  fascinates  imagination. 

The  change  produced  upon  the  thinking  part  of  man,  in 
passing  from  the  broad  St  Lawrence  into  the  seemingly 
narrow  and  awfully  deep  Saguenay,  whose  waters  leave  the 
sides  of  the  towering  mountains,  which  almost  shut  out  the 
very  light  of  heaven,  is  such  as  no  pen  can  paint  nor  tongue 
describe.  It  is  a  river  one  should  see  if  only  to  know  what 
dreadful  aspects  nature  can  assume  in  wild  moods.  Com- 
pared to  it,  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  cosy  and  smiling ;  it  is  wild  and  grand,  apparently, 
in  spite  of  itself.  On  either  side  rise  cliffs,  varying  in  per- 
pendicular height  from  1,200  to  1,600  feet,  and  this  is  the 
character  of  the  River  Saguenay  from  its  mouth  to  its 
source.  Ha !  Ha !  bay,  which  is  60  miles  from  its  mouth, 
affords  the  first  landing  and  anchorage.  The  name  of  this 
bay  is  said  to  arise  from  the  circumstance  of  early  navi- 
gators proceeding  in  sailing  vessels  up  a  river  of  this  kind 
for  60  miles,  with  eternal  sameness  of  feature,  stem  and 
high  rocks  on  which  they  could  not  land,  and  no  bottom  for 
their  anchors,  ac  last  broke  out  into  laughing  Ha!  Hal 
when  they  found  landing  and  anchorage.  This  wonderful 
i-iver  seems  one  huge  mountain  rent  asunder  at  some  remote 
age  by  some  great  convulsion  of  nature.  The  reader  who 
goes  to  see  it  (and  all  ought  to  do  so  who  can,  for  it  is  one 
of  the  great  natural  wonders  of  the  continent),  can  add  to 
the  poetical  filling  up  of  the  picture  from  his  own  imagina- 
tion. .  '. 


■^ 


■■  -  ■"i-mmrniifMmwwt 


138 


This  beautiful  trip  is  easy  and  facile  of  accompliHhment, 
as  new  and  magniticent  boats,  rivaling  in  liixuriousness 
with  any  in  our  inland  waters,  run  regularly  to  Ha !  Ha ! 
bay,  on  board  of  which  the  pleasure  seeker  will  exjjerience 
all  th?t  comfort  and  accommodation  whicl.  is  necessary  to 
the  full  enjoyment  of  such  a  trip. 

To  the  foregoing  descriptions  we  appen^  an  extract  from 

the  letter  of  a  writer  in  the  Buffalo  Commercial  Advertiser, 

jj:      •       who  has  apparently  gone  over  the  "ground"  with  much 

satisfaction.     Speaking  of  the  great  pleasure  route,  he  says : 

"  There  is  probably  no  route  in  the  known  world  pre- 
senting more  attractions  to  the  tourist  than  that  from 
Buffalo  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  via.  Lake  Ontario  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  river;  presenting,  first,  the  visit  to  the 
great  cataract,  next.  Lake  Ontario,  the  river  St.  Lawrence, 
and  the  romantic  scenery  of  the  '  Thousand  Isles ; '  then 
the  sublime  rapids,  increasing  in  grandeur  to  the  great  cul- 
mination of  the  '  Lachine  rapids,'  and  finally  finishing  with 
the  beautiful  scenery  of  and  around  the  Falls  of  Montmo- 
rency, at  Quebec,  and  down  the  Saguenay — all  combine  to 
make  up  more  of  the  wild,  romantic  and  sublime  than  can 
be  found  in  the  same  number  of  miles  and  almost  any 
traveled  route  in  the  known  world." 

Returning  to  Montreal  for  our  trip  down  Lake  Champlain 
and  Lak  George,  to  Saratoga,  Albany,  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton, as  m^^st  of  the  tourists  have  tickets  for  these  destinations, 
the  routes  need  only  be  mentioned.  The  Delaware  &  Hud- 
son Canal  Company  Railroad,  and  Central  Vermont  have 
ticket  offices  in  Montreal,  where  information  is  courteously 
dispensed  by  obliging,  gentlemanly  clerks  at  all  times.  It 
would  be  useless  ^'ere  to  print  the  timetables  of  the  differ- 


> 


J 


1 


>>■: 


^f^-: 


|"pliHhinent, 
ixuriousness 
>  Ha!  Ha! 
experience 
ecessary  to 

X tract  from 
Advertiser, 
with  much 
tc,  he  says : 
world  pre- 
that   from 

'ntario  and 

v'isit  to  the 
Lawrence, 

sles;'  then 
great  cul- 

ishing  with 
Montmo- 

ombine  to 
than  can 

Iniost  any 

'haniplain 
;  and  Bos- 
itinations, 
•e&Hud- 
lont  have 
urteously 
mes.  It 
tie  differ- 


139 

ent  roads,  as  ciianges  occ\ir  too  often  for  sut'h  information 
to  be  reliable  As  you  are  supposed  to  be  quartered  at  the 
new  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  which  is  in  the  iieart  of  the  city, 
and  contains  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  and  Delaware  & 
Hudson  Canal  Company  offices,  and  directly  opposite  is  the 
Central  \'ermont  office,  presided  over  by  A.  C.  Stonegrave, 
any  tifne-table  required  is  easily  obtainable  ;  also,  adjoining 
is  the  office  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Company. 

All  railroads  issuing  summer  excursion  tickets  through, 
over  this  line,  allow  passengers,  if  they  desirCs  to  procure  at 
Port  Kent  depot  a  ticket  which  entitles  them  to  visit  Au 
Sable  Chasm,  and  to  return  to  Port  Kent  for  75  cents. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  morning,  by  taking  the  first 
train  on  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Railroad,  if  you 
wish  to  make  Lake  George,  Saratoga,  or  Albany  the  same 
day ;  your  tickets  may  read  Lake  Champlain  Co.  steamers, 
but  it  is  all  the  same ;  boat  and  rail  belong  to  the  same 
parties.  Should  you  desire  to  take  Lake  Champlain,  leave 
Montreal  in  the  afternoon  and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm,  via 
Port  Kent ;  remain  over  night  at  Lake  View  House,  taking 
the  boat  at  8  a.  m.  from  there  to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  and 
then  down  Lake  George ;  or  proceed  on  the  train  at  10:30. 
By  getting  off  at  Port  Kent  the  distance  to  Lake  View 
House  is  only  three  miles  by  stage  over  a  first-class  plank 
road  ',  therefore,  it  may  be  said,  if  you  desire  to  make  both 
lakes  on  the  same  day,  you  are  compelled  to  leave  Mont- 
real in  the  afternoon  and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm  via  Port 
Kent,  and  remain  over  night  at  the  Luke  View  Hotel, 
which  will  be  found  to  be  an  excellent  house ;  taking  the 
boat  in  the  morning.     If  tickets  read  by  the  Central  Ver- 


;« W»*WIS(»S«W«S5P'^««  ■Sl«IBSS3«»"'<V»*W«*  «»^re<». 


Lake  View  House, 

AT  AU  SABLE  CHASM, 

Is  on  a  high  plateau,  three  miles  above  Port  Kent,  which  is  on  the 
west  side  of  Lake  ("haniplain,  oppusitn  Burlington,  and  on  the  New 
York  and  Canada  Railroad,  and  at  which  nil  passenger  trains  and 
steamboats  stop. 

The  Hotel  commands  extended  and  grand  views  of  the  lake  and 
Green  Mountains  on  the  one  side,  and  of  the  Adirondack  Mountains 
on  the  other. 

It  is  lighted  by  gas ;  has  hot  and  cold  water  baths,  &c,,  on  each 
floor ;  sewerage  arrang<  Tuents  of  the  best  charact«'r ;  telegraph, 
billiard-room,  bowling  alleys,  and  livery  stable. 

The  Table  is,  in  all  respects  first-class,  including  the  not  very 
usual  feature  (at  such  places)  of  an  abundance  of  vegetablea — not 
canned,  but  fresh  from  the  garden,  and  fruits  in  season. 

The  Air  will  be  foimd  remarkably  bracing,  dry  and  healthy ; 
while  good  roads,  picturesque  and  varied  scenery,  with  numerous 
walks  and  drives,  combine  to  make  the  place  a  most  attractive  and 
detiirable  summer  resort. 

The  Lake  View  House  is  open  the  year  round,  but  is  principally 
a  summer  resort. 

THE  CHASM. 

This  beautiful  natural  wonder  is  formed  by  the  Au  Sable  River, 
which  has  cut  a  channel  in  the  Potsdam  sandstone,  leaving  gorges 
and  precipices  of  varied  shaiies  towering  above  its  dark  waters — 
the  top  and  sides  of  which  are  fringed  with  cedars,  whose  sombre 
shadows  add  to  its  mysterious  grandeur. 

The  lengtli  of  the  Chasm  proper  is  nearly  two  m^les.  In  places 
the  river  is  over  fitly  feet  wide,  in  others  it  is  compress^  d  to  only  ten 
feet,  and  is  of  great  depth.  It  dashes  through  its  confined  channel, 
forming  a  variety  of  beautiful  cascades,  rapids  and  falls. 

Frederica  Bremer  said  "  a  visit  to  the  Chasm  would  reward  a 
voyage  from  Europe."  European  visitors  generally  fully  endorse 
this  sentiment,  anci  no  lover  of  fine  scenery  should  omit  a  visit  to 
the  Chasm. 

J.  H.  BURDSALL, 

Managet  for  the  Au  Sable  Chasm  Co. 


i^f^^-l^^'iv  '  ■ 


Nj#.r 


'^  .■»■■■■ - 


r;./'!vtiH-;..:{..;tir;.vWj 


^c-$;^ 


USE, 


;m. 


whitli  is  on  the 
and  on  the  New 
'nger  trains  and 

of  the  lake  and 
idack  Mountains 

■K  &c.,  on  each 
'ter;    telegraph, 

ng  the  not  very 

vegetables— not 

n. 

7  and  healthy ; 
with  numerous 
t  attractive  and 

It  is  principally 


u  Sable  River, 
Jeaving  goiTgeg 
dark  waters — 
whose  sombre 

es.  In  places 
I*  d  to  only  ten 
fined  channel, 

mid  reward  a 
fully  endorse 
mit  a  visit  to 

^LL,  '  ■  "t. 

Chatm  Oo. 


ISfe' 


f 


mont  Railroad  you  go  to  Burlington,  where  you  arrive  for 
supper,  and  as  the  boat  does  not  leave  there  until  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  you  have  plenty  of  time  to  see  that 
beautiful  city  before  the  leaving  of  the  boat ;  at  any  rate 
you  won't  have  to  rise  as  early  as  if  you  were  at  Plattsburg. 

MY  FIRST  VISIT  TO  AU  SABLE  CHASM. 

As  long  as  anything  shall  remain  green  in  my  memory,  I 
feel  confident  it  will  be  the  impression  of  that  charming 
view  and  grand  natural  spectacle,  Au  Sable  Chasm. 

Arising  early  in  the  morning,  if  not  with  the  lark,  a  very 
good  second  in  the  race,  I  was  invited  by  the  manager  of 
the  Lake  View  House  to  visit  the  chasm  ;  accepting  the 
same,  we  proceeded  through  the  gate  and  down  the  steps, 
which  I  did  not  stop  to  count ;  but  the  number  was  suffi- 
cient for  a  man  of  my  weight,  and  as  large  bodies  move 
slow,  I  was  behind  the  rest  of  our  gay,  hilarious  party  be- 
cause I  remained  to  drink  in  the  beauties  my  eyes  were 
feasting  upon.  Reaching  the  end  of  the  chasm,  where  we 
take  the  boat  for  the  rapids,  I  did  not  have  confidence  to 
proceed  the  rest  of  the  journey  ivith  my  companions,  as  I 
felt  I  was  too  large  a  crowd  for  the  boat ;  but  returning  as 
I  came,  which  very  few  people  do,  I  was  more  impressed 
by  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  more  than  going  down. 
Returning  to  the  hotel  some  hours  after  my  party,  I  had 
stories  to  tell  that  caused  many  of  them  to  return  and  make 
the  trip  that  I  had.  If  there  is  any  view  on  earth  that 
will  please  you,  it  is  the  one  obtained  from  any  point  at 
the  Lake  View  House,  Au  Sable  Chasm,  looking  at  Lake 
Champlain  and  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  one 
side,  or  the  Chasm  and  Adirondacks  on  the  other. 


::>^: 


vL'^S^ 


<m*^ 


'32 


Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad,  boats  left  Rouse's 
Point  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  a  train  left  Montreal  to 
connect ;  but  as  the  route  on  Lake  Champlain  has  been 
discontinued  from  Rouse's  Point  to  Plattsburg,  really  the 
most  picturesque  part  of  the  trip  down  Lake  Champlain 
being  cut  off,  most  of  the  tourists  take  the  rail  in  the 
morning  from  Montreal,  and  r^n  pass  through  Lake  Ch>'m- 
plain  by  rail.  The  rail  passing  close  along  the  lake  sh.,re, 
one  gets  a  very  nice  view,  better,  as  I  have  often  expressed 
it,  than  if  the  parties  were  on  the  boat,  as  they  cannot  st;e 
both  shores  on  a  boat  at  once,  imless  the  tourist's  eyes 
were  cut  on  the  bias  or  cross,  thus  enabling  them  to  see 
both  sides  at  once.  The  rail  is  preferable  ?,nd  saves  time. 
As  it  is  immaterial  to  me  how  you  reach  Ticonderoga,  it  is- 
presumed  you  get  there.  Lake  George  Junction,  where  you 
change  cars  and  connect  for  Baldwin,  which  is  a  ride  of 
about  fifteen  minutes.  You  aie  now  supposed  to  have 
arrived  on  board  the  company's  steamer  Horicon,  and  are 
sailing  up  Lake  George.  Now,  if  the  reader  expects  me  to- 
describe  Lake  George,  I  shall  simply  say.  No !  with  a  large 
N.  It  is  too  much  ;  its  praises  have  been  written  and  sung 
for  the  past  half  century  by  thousands.  I  shall'  with  pleas- 
ure and  relief  to  myself  ask  the  loan  of  your  scissors. 
Thanks ;  now  we  can  comply  with  your  wishes  :  We  have 
started  on  our  trip  through  this  magical  lake.  It  is  difficult 
to  describe  the  quiet  delight  one  feels  a:5  he  gazes  on  the 
expanse  of  the  tranquil  azure  spread  before  nim  like  a  part 
of  the  sky  inlaid  on  the  emerald  bosom  of  the  earth. 
Peace  is  in  the  very  air  which  lazily  slumbers  over  the  water,, 
while  the  monotone  of  the  silvery  ripples  rolling  on  the  yel- 
low sands,  and  the  musical  moan  of  the  breeze  in  the  cone- 
scented  pines,  seem  to  carry  the  soul  back  to  other  days. 


TT'-'*.  ,..7!>r^;-5'.' 


:ft  Rouse's 
[ontreal  to 
has  been 
really  the 
Champlain 
ail    in  the 
ake  Ch>  m- 
ake  shs-re, 
expressed 
cannot  s(;e 
irist's  eyes 
em  to  see 
saves  tir/ie. 
eroga,  it  is 
where  you 
a  ride  of 
i   to  have 
't,  and  are 
ects  me  ta 
ith  a  large 
I  and  sung 
'ith  pleas- 
r  scissors. 
We  have 
is  difficult 
es  on  the 
ike  a  part 
the  earth, 
the  water, 
n  the  yel- 
the  cone- 
her  days. 


133 

Lake  George  is,  indeed,  like  a  work  of  art  of  the  highest 
order,  for  it  has  the  quality  of  improving,  the  more  one 
studies  its  attractions,  and  the  ever-harmonious  flow  of 
lines  constantly  suggests  a  composition  of  consumate  genius 
in  which  every  effect  has  been  combined  to  produce  a  cer- 
tain ideal. 

Now,  dear  reader,  I  have  a  favor  to  ask  of  you  ;  read  this 
little  book  as  far  as  Saratoga  description  commences  ;  then 
lay  it  aside,  and  feast  the  eyes  on  Lake  George  for  the  next 
two  hours,  and,  if  you  can  describe  its  beauties,  do  so  to 
the  best  of  your  ability,  and  forward  to  me,  2 1  Chestnut 
Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  it  shall  have  a  place  in  this 
work,  and  you  shall  have  the  credit  for  the  same ; — the  task 
-  ;  was  too  much  for  me.  ~ 

CAMPING  OUT. 

The  lake  is  a  famous  camping-ground,  during  July  and 
August,  and  its  enjoyments,  with  hits  of  sound  advice,  can- 

t  not  be  better  given  than  by  the  following,  from  Stoddard's 
-charming  guide  to  Lake  George : 

^  "  The  lovely  islands  are  suddenly  astir  with  busy  throngs. 
''  Rocks  are  decked  with  blue  and  gray,  the  tree-tops  blush 
with  bunting  ;  shores  put  on  a  flannelly  hue,  and  shadowy 
point  blossom  out  in  duck  and  dimity.  It  is  safe  to  say 
that  in  the  course  of  the  season  a  thousand  people  taste  the 
pleasures  and  overcome  the  difficulties  that  but  season  the 
glorious  dish  of  camp  life  at  Lake  George.  Among  the 
necessaries  are  a  light  axe,  long  handle  frying-pan,  tin  pail 
for  water  or  coffee,  tin  plate,  pint  cup,  knife  and  fork,  and 
fishing  tackle.  A  stove-top  laid  on  a  fire-place  of  stone»- 
and  mud,  and  supplied  with  one  length  of  st-ve-pipe,  is  a 


m% 


•m,r*^ 


^s--'*- 


positive  luxury  to  the  cook.  Spruce  boughs  for  a  bed,  with 
two  or  three  good  woolen  blankets  for  covering,  will  be 
found  very  comfortable  ;  a  small  bag  to  fill  with  leaves  or 
moss  for  a  pillow  pays  for  itself  in  one  night.  Flannel  or 
woolen  clothing,  with  roomy  boots  and  a  soft  felt  hat,  is 
ordinarily  the  safest  dress.  Ladies,  wear  what  you  have  a 
mind  to — you  will,  anyway — but  let  it  be  flannel  npxt  to 
you,  good  strong  shoes  under  foot,  and  a  man's  felt  hat  over- 
head ;  take  the  man  along  too — he  will  be  useful  to  take 
the  fish  off  your  hook,  run  errands,  etc. 

Boats  and  provisions  may  be  obtained  at  almost  any  of 
the  hotels.  Bacon,  salt  pork,  bread  and  butter,  Boston 
crackers,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  pepper  and  salt,  with  a  tin  box 
or  two  for  containing  the  same,  are  among  the  things  need- 
ed. Milk  can  be  obtained  regularly  at  the  farm  houses, 
and  berries  picked  almost  anywhere.  Ice  is  a  luxury  which 
may  be  contracted  for  and  thrown  from  the  passing  steam- 
ers daily ;  a  hole  in  the  ground  with  a  piece  of  bark  over  it 
forms  a  very  good  ice-box.  A  drinking  cup  of  leather,  to 
carry  in  the  pocket,  comes  handy  at  times.  Broad-brimmed 
straw  hats  are  a  nuisance.  A  shanty  of  boughs  will  answer 
in  absence  of  anything  better ;  it  sounds  well  when  you 
talk  about  '  roughing  it,'  but  it  is  bad  in  practice.  A  tent 
is  best,  and  may  be  made  very  comfortable  with  a  little  out- 
lay of  money  and  labor." 

THE  ADIliONDACKS. 

The  great  wilderness  of  north-eastern  New  York,  the 
limits  of  which  we  will  not  try  to  define,  is  generally  known 
as  the  North  Woods,  or  as  the  Adirondacks  according  to 
the  view  taken  of  its  surface.    The  former  title  indicates 


~'^-^^,:^;K?p^'£^i^?ft^^^'*ai(^ss-^>3i^j«s- 


i 

d,  with 

vill  be 

ves  or 

nel  or 

hat,  is 

tiave  a 

♦  f 

'35 

merely  a  wild,  densely  wooded  region ;  the  latter,  a  region 
occupied  by  all  the  varied  scenery  pertaining  to  a  most  re- 
markable lake  and  mountain  system.  The  wild  region  of 
dense  forests,  majestic  mountains,  magnificent  lakes  and 
beautiful  rivers,  lies  in  the  counties  of  Herkimer,  Hamilton, 
Lewis,  St.  Lawrence,  Clinton,  Franklin  and  Essex,  and 
aggregates  over  3,500,000  acres,  a  tract  of  land  of  an  area 
of  nearly  loo  square  miles.  This  region  is  the  only  primi- 
tive hunting  and  fishing  ground  left  in  New  York  state,  and 
offering,  as  it  does,  rare  health-restoring  qualities,  combined 
with  excellent  deer  hunting,  and  the  best  brook  and  lake 
trout  fishing  accessible,  is  yearly  more  than  doubling  its 
number  of  visitors — in  fact,  the  limit  is  only  measured  by 
hotel  capacity.  It  is  not  our  purpose,  nor  would  it  be  pos- 
sible in  so  small  a  work  as  this,  to  go  into  details  as  to  the 
wilderness,  but  guide  books  are  easily  obtained,  and  from 
one  of  them  we  take  the  following  :  .,     X    . 

"The  Adirondack  wilderness,  as  known  to  the  public  gen- 
erally, may  be  divided  into  three  general  divisions  or  sys- 
tems, which  collectively  entertain  .the  great  bulk  of  visitors, 
and  are  represent%live  of  the  whole,  namely,  the  Saranac 
and  St.  Regis  waters  of  Franklin  county, whose  natural  gate- 
way is  Plattsburg  and  Port  Kent ;  the  mountain  region  of 
Keene,  North  Elba  and  Lake  Placid,  in  Essex  county,  with 
entrance  at  Westport,  and  the  Blue  Mountain  and  Ra- 
quette  waters,  in  Hamilton  county,  reached  by  way  of  the 
Adirondack  railroad  from  Saratoga. 

Of  these  sections  the  first  mentioned  has  become  the 
most  widely  celebrated  as  a  region  where  fashion  and  fish- 
ing is  admirably  blended,  and  has  its  patrons  who  are  looked 
for  as  regularly  as  the  seasons.     The  second  is  less  known 


■r^ 


in  fact,  but  its  grand  mountains  and  lovely  valleys  have  be- 
come familiar  on  the  canvass  of  our  great  painters ;  while 
the  Raquette  region  has  an  air  of  newness  and  morning 
freshness,  as  if  just  awakened  from  a  long  and  refreshing 
sleep,  and  is  making  rapid  strides  in  popular  favor.  Each 
section  while  possessing  something  of  the  characteriBtics 
of  the  others,  has  its  own  individual  attractions ;  and 
while  connected  by  natural  highways,  over  which  the 
nomad  often  goes,  they  still  to  a  considerable  extent,  pre- 
serve their  individuality,  and  each  is  complete  and  sufficient 
unto  itself. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  Adirondack  region  is  its  freedom  from 
rough  or  vicious  characters.  Evil  finds  nothing  congenial  in 
its  bright  skies  and  pure,  fresh  atmosphere.  Conventionali- 
ties that  obtain  at  other  resorts  are  not  held  here,  and  it  is 
possible  for  gentlemen  to  wear  blue  shirts  and  soft  hats,  and 
for  ladies  to  travel  without  male  escort  other  than  the  neces- 
sary compliment  of  guides  to  furnish  motive  power,  from 
one  end  of  the  wilderness  to  the  other. 

Full  dress  is  seldom  seen,  even  at  the  .most  fashionable 

, .  ft  , 
resorts,  and  is  exceeded  in  absurdity  bhty  by  the  conven- 
tional "stage  trapper,"  who  occasionally  burst  upon  the 
astonished  wilderness  in  fringed  buckskin.  Your  right  to 
enter  the  best  society  will  not  be  questioned  because  of 
dress.  Clothing  ordinarily  worn  is  sufficient  for  all  occa- 
sions here." 

The  Adirondack  region  is  steadily  growing  in  favor  as  a. 
resort  for  persons  afflicted  with  throat  and  lung  troubles ; 
and  while  it  is  not  by  any  means  a  sure  cure  for  a//,  how- 
ever deeply  seated  the  disease  may  have  become,  yet  if  per- 
sons so  afflicted  will  go  there  in  time,  they  will  find  the  dry, 


•37 


I 


pure  air,  impregnated  as  it  is  with  balsam  and  pine,  to  be 
of  infinite  relief,  and  many  living  witnesses  are  there 
found  to  prove  its  benefits.  Several  articles  have  been 
written  upon  this  subject  which  misled  the  public,  and,  in 
consequence,  many  people,  past  all  possible  cure,  have  been 
sent  there,  with  only  natural  results.  We  would  only  say, 
consult  your  physician,  and,  if  you  are  not  past  cure,  we 
believe  this  section  to  be  as  nearly  affording  a  remedy  as 
any  spot  on  the  continent. 

Places  of  entertainment,  from  the  well-appointed  hotel  on 
the  border  to  the  rude  log-house  and  open  camp  of  the 
interior,  are  found  at  short  intervals  throughout  the  entire 
wilderness,  all  waiting  with  open  doors  to  receive  the 
stranger.        ^^       \    T^^'  '     \ 

Guides  and  boats  tnay  be  had  at  all  the  hotels. 

Under  head  of  "Gateways"  will  be  found  the  nearest 
points  reached  by  railroad  and  stage  routes,  distances,  etc., 
to  the  most  prominent  resortSfr^/jv-jj-         •. 


,^ 


:ti^-' 


GATEWAYS. 


From  Plattsburg,  take  Chateaugay  Kaib-oad,  thirty-six 
miles  to  Lyon  Mountain,  thence  by  stage  four  miles  to 
"  Ralph's"  on  upper  Chateaugay  Lake. 

From  Au  Sable  (20  miles  west  of  Plattsburg  on  branch 
railroad).  Stages  leave  here  every  morning  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) on  arrival  of  early  trains,  for  French's,  18  miles  j 
Franklin  Falls,  20  miles ;  Bloomingdale,  28  miles ;  Loon 
Lake  House,  on  Loon  Lake,  28  miles;  Rainbow  House, 
on  Rainbow  Lake,  35  miles ;  Martin's  on  Saranac  Lake, 
37  miles;  Paul  Smith's,  on  St.  Regis  Lake,  38  miles;  Pros- 
pect House,  on  Saranac  Lake,  41  miles ;  Bart|ett's,  on 
Saranac  Lake,  49  miles. 


r   ■•--  r-TTT- 1 1  —nil  II'. 


»39 


/ 
k 

o 


t 


«;'■.■'  •■ 


>.„.'. 


_!  .;-v3j^ 


II 


From  Elizabethtown  delightful  trips  are  made  into  the 
mountain  region,  through  Keene  Valley  via.  Indian  Pass, 
and  to  Au  Sable  Pond,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  in 
the  wilderness,  also  by  North  Elba,  Lake  Placid  and  Wil- 
mington Notch,  passing  immediately  under  the  shadow  of 
Whiteface  and  Haystock  Mountains,  and  out  at  Au  Sable 
station,  or  return  to  Elizabethtown.  •       . 

FACILITIES    FOR    LAKE    TRAVEL.     , 

The  Champlain  Transportation  Company  run  a  regular 
line  of  steamboats  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  making 
three  round  trips  daily  (except  Sundays),  and  stopping  at 
all  v/ay  landings.  The  Horicon  of  this  line,  making  the 
regular  connections  with  the  railroad,  is  a  fine  side-wheel 
steamer  203  feet  long  and  52  feet  wide  over  all,  and  is  643 
tons  burden,  and  will  accommodate  comfortably  1,000  peo- 
ple. I  can  truthfully  say  that  upon  no  inland  lake  in  the 
world  is  the  passenger  service  so  •  promptly  and  regularly 
done,  and  passengers  so  elegantly  cared  for  as  upon  Lake 
George.  \-i  '    :  * 

Caldwell  is  the  railroad  terminus,  and  is  the  largest  town 
on  the  lake.  It  is  situated  at  the  extreme  southern  end,  or 
head  of  the  lake  (the  waters  flowing  north  and  emptying 
into  Lake  Champlain,  immediately  at  the  ruins  of  old  Fort 
Ticonderoga).  Here,  a*  Caldwell,  is  located  the  handsome 
dock  and  depot  building  of  the  railroad  company,  whose 
trains  run  down  the  dock  immediately  to  the  steamers — one 
of  which  leaves  upon  the  arrival  of  each  train  for  all  points 
down  the  lake.  The  railroad  was  extended  to  this  point 
last  season,  thus  saving  at  least  one  hour  of  time  and  better 
facilities  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists  and  pleasure 
travel.  *  - 


■-i^.; 


14° 

LAKE    GEORGE. 

Every  American,  or  tourist,  should  see  it  at  least  once. 
It  is  the  largest  of  the  Adirondack  chain,  346  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  247  above  Champlain,  35  miles  long  and 
from  two  to  four  in  width,  and  fed  from  mountain  brooks 
and  springs  coming  up  from  the  bottom,  making  it  transpar- 
ent. It  is  beautifully  dotted  with  over  200  islands,  and 
surrounded  by  high  mountains,  some  rising  2,000  feet  above 
the  water,  clothed  with  foliage  and  dotted  with  villas  and 
picturesque  camps ;  one  feels  like  leaving  the  boat  and  re- 
maining in  this  bower  of  enchantment.  The  steamer  touches 
at  all  points  of  note  and  arrives  at  the  Fort  William  Henry 
Hotel,  Caldwell,  where  you  can,  if  you  desire,  remain  over. 


' 


T 


CONVENIENCES. 

The  proprietors  spare  no  pains  to  make  Fort  William 
Henry  Hotfx  attractive  iu  all  respects. 

The  Hotel  is  elegantly  furnished  throughout,  has  a  fast 
running  elevator,  and  is  lighted  by  gas  and  electricity.  It 
is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  a  Mountain  spring. 

The  Cuisine  is  identical  in  every  way  with  that  of  "  The 
Arlington,  Washington."  The  same  Chef  and  assistants. 
The  same  Steward.  The  same  Head  Waiter  with  his  ex- 
cellent and  full  Corps  of  carefully  trained  and  experienced 
waiters.  This  being  the  only  Hotel  on  the  entire  Lake  tliat 
does  not  rely  for  its  table  service  on  female  help. 

In  the  main  office  is  the  only  General  Ticket  Office  at 
Lake  George,  where  baggage  may  be  checked,  and  infor- 
mation obtained  in  regard  to  all  distances.  Stock  reports 
are  received  hourly. 


4^ 


HIIW> 


The  Lake  steamboats  land  at  the  Hotel  dock,  which  is 
the  headtiuarters  for  all  the  passenger  and  pleasure  or  ex- 
cursion boats  on  the  Lake.  A  large  number  of  steam  and 
sailing  yachts,  and  a  flotilla  of  smaller  boats  are  provided 
for  the  use  of  guests. 

The  Livery  Stables  attached  keep  constantly  on  hand  sad- 
dle horses,  buggies,  buck-boards,  phaetons  and  other  car- 
riages of  all  descriptions,  to  be  had  by  applying  at  the 
office. 

The  Lake  steamboats,  Horicon  and  Ticonderoga,  ar- 
rive every  morning  at  4:30  except  Sunday,  bringing  passen- 
gers from  Montreal,  Lake  Champlain  and  Whitehall,  direct 
to  the  wharf  of  the  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  where 
courteous  attendants  will  always  be  in  readiness  to  assist 
and  serve  the  guests  of  this  House. 

As  I  have  cheerfully  recommended  tourists  for  the  last 
ten  years  to  make  a  short  stay  at  least  at  this  delightful  re- 
sort, the  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  and  never  met  one 
afterwards  who  did  not  thank  me  for  the  suggestion  ;  I  say 
to  you  remain  over.  I  am  confident  you  will  never  regret 
it.  Connections  are,  however,  arranged  for,  and  you  can, 
if  you  wish,  leave  immediately  for 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  .,''\V 

the  focus  to  which  the  fashionable  world  of  the  United 
States,  indeed,  of  Europe,  is  annually  drawn.  Here  are  ,  J 
intellectual  men,  stylish  men,  the  beaux  of  Society,  and 
the  man  of  the  world  ;  ladies  of  social  rank,  the  managing  ,^ 
mother,  the  marriageable  daughters,  the  flattering  bee  of 
fashion,  and  the  more  gentle  bird  of  beauty,  are  found 
amidst  the  throng,  for  Saratoga  is  cosmopolitan.     As  a 


t4» 


HBNRY  CT.AIR, 


LESSEK. 


Grand  Union  Hma 


OPEN  FROM  JUNE  TO  OCTOBER. 


Saratoqa    Springs. 


GL, 


, 


'  -,.K..i 


/ 


*«4J 

gentleman  said  to  me  one  day,  "  I  cun  meet  more  of  my 
friends  in  one  hour  during  the  season  at  Saratoga  than  I 
could  at  home  in  a  week."  The  ladies  here  have  ample 
opportunities  to  display  their  peculiar  charms  and  graces. 
The  sporting  gentleman  can  also  find  an  opjwrtunity  to 
gratify  his  peculiar  tastes ;  the  philosopher  r.ay  study  hu- 
man nature ;  the  invalid  find  perfect  health  ;  in  fact  every 
one  at  Saratoga  finds  that  peculiar  pleasure  they  most 
desire.  Of  all  the  elegant  hotels  which  here  abound  we 
have  not  space  to  mention.  I  will,  therefore,  speak  of  those 
I  know,  the  United  States,  Grand  Union,  and  Adelphi,  con- 
fident they  can  please  any  one  paying  them  a  visit. 

The  Grand  Union  Hotel  is  the  great  '  ouse  of  Saratoga, 
having  a  frontage  of  i,8oo  feet;  the  n  issive  tower  which 
rises  in  the  centre  is  200  feet  high  to  the  summit,  revealing 
a  landscape  of  75  miles  in  circumference,  of  wondrous 
beauty.  It  will  accommodate  1,600  guests  comfortably ; 
it  has  all  modern  improvements.  To  give  you  an  idea  of 
its  magnitude :  its  piazzas  are  over  a  mile  in  length ;  halls, 
two  miles ;  carpets,  ten  acres ;  number  of  rooms,  eleven 
hundred.  Over  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  have  been 
expended  in  decorating,  re-furnishing  and  embellishing  its 
grounds.  Its  Cuisine  is  perfection.  The  garden  or  lawn 
parties  given  at  this  hotel  are  the  recherche  event  of  the 
season.  The  lessee  of  this  establishment  is  Mr.  Henry 
Clair,  who  is  also  lessee  of  the  Metropolitan  and  Park 
Avenue  Hotels,  New  York  ;  the  latter  is  the  only  absolute 
fire-proof  hotel  in  America.  The  court,  which  is  one 
hundred  feet  square,  has  electric  lights.  The  garden  is  a 
superb  bower  of  beauty,  summer  and  winter.  The  house 
has  over  six  hundred  rooms,  and  can  accommodate  eight 
hundred  guests.     The  library  connected  has  five  thousand 


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volumes,  accessible  to  guests ;  the  location  is  fifth  Avenue, 
Thirty-Second  and  Thirty  Third  streets,  New  York.  The 
leap  into  public  favor  of  this  popular  hotel  during  the  past 
year  is  astounding. 

The  Adelphi  Hotel.— This  new,  comfortable  and  petite 
hotel  is  located  on  Broadway,  contains  one  hundred  rooms, 
is  convenient  to  the  springs,  etc.,  etc.     Its  piazza  is  elevated 
one  story  above  the  street  and  commands  a  splendid  view 
up  and  do^^n  Broadway,  as  well  as  Phila  street  opposite. 
The  proprietor,  Mr.  Wm.  H.  McCaffrey,  is  too  well  known 
to  the  traveling  community  to  need  one  word  from  me,  and 
the  gentlemen  connected  with  the  office  and  other  depart- 
ments of  the  house,  are  too  well  quaUfied  by  being  the 
choice  of  the  proprietor,  to  need  commendation.     It  is 
"my  home"   when  in  Saratoga;    that  is  all  I  have  to 
say  against   it.      It  is  the   universal  opinion  of  tourists, 
th'at  no  watering  ulace  on  the  continent,  of  like  size,  can 
compare  with  the  unwearying  charms  of  Saratoga.     The 
hotel  arrivals  some  days  are  upwards  of  one  thousand.  One 
might  become  almost  tired  of  the  world  and  vote  every 
other  place  a  bore,  but  Saratoga  scenery,  Saratoga  atmos- 
phere and  Saratoga  Ufe  would  still  charm  by  its  ever  pleas- 
ing peculiarities.      Mount  McGregor,  the  place  selected 
above  all  others  for  its  pure  air,  etc.,  etc.,  as  a  residence  for 
our  hero.  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant,  who      rived  at  Saratoga  on 
June  i7th,  1885,  (during  my  stay  for  health),  so  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  old  veteran  while  he  wivs  being  con- 
veyed to  the  Mount  McGregor  R.  R ,  which  ascends  to  the 
top  of  the  mountain,  where  visitors  can  go  almost  every 
hour  and  get  a  view  that  will  well  repay  them.     I  left  Sara- 
toga on  the  morning  of  the  19th  June,  and  was  informed 


I'   I— I  I " 


-  -^.:^-^T,'  i-5»jj^*w5*' 


^6 


:oNGKEss  *  Spring. 


THE 


STANSARB  UINERAL  WATER 

OATHAETIO,  ALTEBATIVE,  a  Speolfle  for  risorders  of  the 

STOKAOH,  LIVES  ani  EISNE78,  E03EXA,  XALABU, 

and  aU  IKFUBITIES  of  the  BLOOS. 


So  enviable  a  name  has  this  famous  Mineral  Water  that  the  managers  of 
Inferior  Mineral  Springs,  desirous  of  Imitating  the  natural  purity  of  the 
botUed  water  of  Congress  Spring,  Inject  a  powerful  acid  In  their  bottled 
water  to  preserve  the  crude  Ingredienb.  In  solution— being  so  heavUy  laden 

with 

LIME   AND    IRON    DEPOSIT. 

with  such  contrivances,  bogus  testimonials  and  fcctored  analysis  cards 
they  seek  to  rival  the  pure  Medicinal  Waters  of  Congress  Spring. 

The  regular  season  visitors  to  Saratoga  fully  understand  these  crude, 
harsh  waters,  many  of  them  after  painful  experiences.  In  proof  of 
thU  we  can  Produce  a  ORBAT  MANY  RE8PON8IBLB 
NAWBS.  But  the  Saratoga  visitors  without  experience,  and  many  who 
use  the  botOed  waters  (often  labelled  as  curatives  for  disorders  which  they 
posiUvely  aggravate),  should  remember  that  crude,  harsh  Mineral  Waters 
produce  headache,  a  sense  of  burning  and  internal  Irritation,  and  do  Irre- 
parable injury  to  the  digestive  organs  and  kidneys. 

CONGRESS    ABATER. 

PURE,   NATURAL   AND    RELIABLE. 

NONE  GENUINE  SOLD  ON  DRAUGHT.    V 

v, '"  -"" 
For  tale  by  Druggists,  Grocers,  Wine  Merchants  and  Hotels.         ,  ,    , ,,  , 

BOTTLK  •*  C"  ''A*'*'  -« 


t 


mdf 


■«i>«aMM!{M»f'Miii« 


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.► 


t 


—Ir 


'  by  the  conductoi-  of  th«  Mt.  McGregor  R.  R.  that  General 
Grant  rested  well  the  previous  night,  and  slept  ten  hours. 
It  is  a  fact  and  worthy  of  note  here,  that  for  the  past  three 
years  there  has  not  been  one  day  during  the  months  of  July 
or  August,  but  they  have  had  a  heavy  frost  on  Mount  Mc- 
Gregor. I  can  vouch  for  the  truthfulness  of  this  item  be- 
cause I  know  him.  He  is  the  conductor  of  the  train  on  the 
Mt.  McGregor  R.  R.,  weighs  280  pounds  and  his  name  is 
Frost. 

Saratoga  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  and  in  the  summer 
season  every  private  house  is  turned  into  a  boarding  house 
of  one  or  the  other  class,  and  therefore  boarding  houses 
abound — no  space  to  mention  all  of  them  here. 

The  Windsor  Hotel,  Saratoga.— This  house  was  built  in 
the  spring  of  1876,  and  is  opened  on  or  about  the  first  of 
June  each  year;  its  location  comer  Broadway  and  Williams 
street.     It  has  a  commanding  view  of  Broadway,  the  main 
street  of  the  village.  It  is  owned  by  Judge  Hilton,  and  the 
lessee  is  Mr.  Henry  Clair,  of  New  York.    It  is  the  first  house 
of  its  kind  opened  in  early  June,  in  order  to  accommodate  the 
Judges  of  the  Court  of  Appeals— the  highest  Court  in  the 
State— which  convenes  here  about  that  time  every  year.  It  is 
the  home  of  the  J  udges  and  their  famiUes,  as  well  as  all  the  dis- 
tinguished hghtB  of  the  legal  profession  during  the  season. 
From  its  observatory  may  be  had  the  most  splendid  view  of 
the  surrounding  country.     The  house  is  first-class,  has  ac- 
commodations for  three  hundred  guests,  and  except  in  size, 
said  Mr.  A.  R.  Wood,  is  superior  to  all  other  hotels  at  this 
watering  place. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  Springs.     First  in  the  list  is  the 
old  and  ever  popular  Congress  Springs. 


J 


JSTOTi*'^''''  "-W'M 


148 


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■Niaia 


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149 

CONGRESS  SPRINGS 

was  discovered  nearly  a    century    ^0—1792— by  Hon. 
James  Taylor,  member  of  Congress  from  New  Hampshire. 
The  park  connected  with  the  Springs  is  beautifully  laid  out 
with  walks,  groves,  flowers,  trees,  and  ponds,  in   which 
speckled  trout  abound,  fountains,  statuary,  live  deer^  etc., 
etc. ;  where  night  and  day  the  beauty  and  fashion  come  for 
pleasure  and  to  imbibe  the  water  of  Congress  and  Columbia 
Springs,  which  are  within  the  enclosr  -     Those  who  are 
posted,  come  here  and  drink,  thus  avoi>      ,  those  waters  of 
other  springs  which  are  irritating  in  their  nature,  and  harsh 
and  inflammable  to  the  stomach,  injuring  the  kidneys  and 
producing  results  irreparable. 

HATHORN  SPRINGS 

was  accidentally  discovered  in  1869,  and  is  named  after  the 
Hon.  H.  H.  Hathorn,  its  owner ;  it  is  a  powerful  cathartic. 
The  water  is  bottled  for  sale,  and  is  probably  the  most  solid 
water  known,  as  it  is  said  to  contain  eight  hundred  and 
eighty-eight  grains  solid  contents  to  a  gallon. 

EXCELSIOR  SPRINGS  AND  PARK, 

some  distance  from  town,  as  well  as  others  I  shall  njention, 
you  can  visit  when  you  take  a  drive.  Washington  Spring 
is  on  the  grounds  of  one  of  the  hotels.  Crystal  Pavilion, 
High  Rock,  Star,  Seltzer,  Red,  A  Spring,  Geyser,  or  spout- 
ing spring,  Robert  Ellis,  The  Vichy,  "  The  Champion 
Spouting  Spring,"  Hamilton,  Putnam,  Flat  Rock,  Magnetic, 
Sulphur,  Iron  and  Diamond,  as  well  as  a  number  of  others 


MN(Wili3B 


;i 


which  have  just  been  discovered,  or  may  have  been  before 
this  reaches  you.     If,  however,  you  are  not  satisfied  with 
the  springs  herein  mentioned,  all  I  ask  is  for  you  to  visit 
the  ones  mentioned  as  I  did,  and  accept  the  cordial  invita- 
tion of  each  to  take  a  glass,  and  if  you  do  not  feel  the  next 
day  that  there  are  springs  enough  at  Saratoga,  your  feel- 
ings will  be  different  from  the  sensation  felt  by  the  writer  of 
this  article,  by  a  large  majority.     The  drives  in  this  vicinity 
are  numerous.     The  road  to  the  cemetery  (which  I  am  in- 
formed, by  one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants,  in  order  to  start  they 
were  obliged  to  borrow  a  corpse  from  an  adjoining  county, 
and  now  a  select  few  who  wish   to  die  happy  come  and  are 
decently  interred,)  has  been  improved,  so  that  the  drive 
there  is  very  much  enhanced  thereby.     By  far  the  prettiest 
drive,  however,  is  through  Broadway  from   Highland  Hill 
for  two  miles  to  Glen    Mitchell.     The  most  fashionable 
drive  is  that  to  the  lake.     Immense  sums  of  money  have  been 
expended  to  widen  and  beautify  this  drive,  which  is  loo 
feet  wide  and  shaded  with  trees,  and  is  sprinkled  to  lay  the 
dust.     Visitors  pass  up  on  one  side  and  down  the  other. 
Saratoga  Lake  is  eight  miles  long  and  two  and  one-half  wide. 
On   an  eminence  on   the  western  shore  is  Moon's  Lake 
House,  proverbial  for  its  sumptuous  game  suppers.     Parties 
fond  of  fishing  or  boating  can  enjoy  this  favorite  pastime  to  . 
their  full  extent.    Its  fitness  for  acquatic  sports  has  been  veri- 
fied by  the  many  events  of  that  nature  which  have  taken 
place  on  its  placid  waters  since    1871,  when    the    Ward 
brothers  vanquished  two  English  crews  selected  from  the 
best  professional  oarsmen  of  Great  Britain.     Racing  is  the 
turf  event  of  the  year,  and  cannot  be  described  here,  only 
mentioned.  ,  ;  •   ,  .: 


I.. 


•*<^''if<>#i<i*«;MMfi^^ 


itr-imi^l^i/^ 


before 
fied  with 
I  to  visit 
al  iiivita- 
the  next 
our  feel- 
writer  of 
s  vicinity 
I  am  in- 
start  they 
I  county, 
:  and  are 
he  drive 
!  prettiest 
land  Hill 
shionable 
lave  been 
h  is  IOC 
o  lay  the 
he  other, 
lalf  wide, 
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Parties 
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from  the 
ing  is  the 
lere,  only 


» .,•■ 


Life  at  Saratoga  is  two-fold — Home  and  Hotel.  The 
former  is  enjoyed  by  its  citizens  who  possess  some  of  the 
most  luxurious,  refined  and  elegant  houses  to  be  found  in 
the  United  States.  Hotel,  or  fashionable  life  is  ephemeral 
in  its  nature,  and  like  the  beautiful  butterfly  its  duration  is 
short.  In  these  few  brief  months  wealth,  beauty,  fashion 
and  other  ingredients  not  so  desirable,  intermingle,  and 
amid  the  gay  whirl  and  excitement  of  the  ball-room  at  night 
one  is  in  a  constant  ecstacy.  From  his  visit  to  the  springs 
in  the  morning,  promenades  or  drives  in  the  afternoon,  the 
music,  lawn  sociable,  and  glittering  fireworks  at  night,  one 
wonders  what  time  there  is  for  even  nature's  balmy,  sweet 
restorer — .sleep.  Anticipating  your  stay  at  Saratoga  to  have 
come  to  an  end,  you  can  depart  for  Albany  any  morning 
via  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s  R.  R.,  or  West  Shore 
R.  R.,  who  run  solid  trains  to  and  from  Saratoga  to  New 
York,  and  New  York  to  Saratoga,  Pullman  Buffet  cars. 
Some  havmg  tickets  to  New  York  by  rail  or  boat,  and  de- 
sire to  visit  Boston,  I  advise  everyone  to  take  the  Fall  River 
Line  to  Boston.  If  you  have  tickets  to  Boston  via  Albany, 
take  the  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad,  which  is  first-class. 

«;id-vr='^ -.  .     NEW  YORK.        ■-■\.'^:."' 

To  those  visiting  New  York  for  the  first  time,  a  few 
words  of  advice  may  not  come  amiss.  I  therefore  suggest 
arriving,  if  possible,  by  daylight.  Everyone  in  the  city 
minds  their  own  business,  a  credit  in  some  ways ;  but  some 
people  make  it  their  business  to  fleece  the  stranger.  I 
would,  therefore,  say  keep  your  own  counsel.  If  informa- 
tion be  required,  ask  a  policeman.  Upon  arrival,  take  cars 
or  stage,  if  possible,  to  destination.     If  you  desire  any  of 


r'irTT=^'-"r''''^"*° 


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•53 

the  hotels  represented  in  this  work,  you  will  always  find  one 
or  more  trusty  porters  at  trains  or  boats.  Avoid,  if  possi- 
ble, the  hacks,  unless  you  make  a  fair,  square  bargain 
before  entering  the  vehicle;  your  trunk  or  valise  may 
accompany  you  with  carriage.  You  will  always  find  upon 
all  trains  or  boats,  courteous  agents  of  the  different  baggage 
express  companies,  who  will  take  your  check,  giving  a"" 
receipt  for  the  same,  which  relievft  you  and  saves  much 
trouble  and  annoyance,  as  their  delivery  system  is  prompt 
and  their  charges  a  stipulated  price ;  no  deviation,  except 
for  quantity.  .    •.- '  'y}' 

Something  should  be  said  here  regarding  the  metropolis 
of  the  American  Continent,  but  space  as  well  as  time  pre- 
vents As  everything  seen  here  is  in  grandeur  superior  to 
elsewhere,  the  impression  made  upon  the  mind  while  here 
will  be  everlasting,  I  shall  not  try  to  befog  the  mind  with  as 
meager  a  mention  as  I  am  capable  of  giving,  but  simply 
mention  the  principal  hotels.  The  first  one  at  hand  is 
the  Grand  Union  Hotel,  42d  street,  near  the  Grand 
Central  Depot.  Money-getting  being  the  chief  aim  of  life, 
its  proper  expenditure  should  not  prove  of  secondary  im- 
portance. That  travel  consumes  a  much  larger  portion  of 
our  finances  than  it  should,  is  evident  from  the  fact  that 
but  few  possess  the  secret  of  retrenching  in  that  direction. 
Two  important  factors  of  expense  in  travel  is  carriage  hire 
and  transfer  of  baggage,  and  that  the  Uaveling  public  is 
more  generally  becoming  disposed  to  throw  off  their  former 
burden,  is  patent  from  the  army  of  guests  who  daily  register 
at  and  fill  the  600  rooms  (reduced  to  $1.00  and  upwards 
per  day),  at  the  Grand  Union  Hotel,  opposite  the  Grand 
Central  Depot,  New  York  City.     Its  European  plan,  ele- 


MURRAY  HILL  HOTEL, 

Park  Avenue,  Tortleth  and  rorty-flrtt  Streets, 

Oti  BlMk  froa  thi  iUXn  C3MTIAL  S»OT. 


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gant  restaurants,  cafu,  lunch  and  wine  rooms,  unexcelled 
cuisine,  moderate  prices,  courteous  treatment,  unchallenged 
manageiiient,  coujjled  with  its  guests  incurriug  no  •jxpens'i 
for  carriage  hire,  or  baggage  transfer,  witli  elevated  railway, 
horse  cars  and  stages  to  all  parts  of  the  city  passing  its 
doors,  renders  the  Grand  Union  one  of  the  most  desirable 
of  homes  for  travelers  in  the  city,  and  also  established  its 
success  and  world-famed  popularity. 

A  MAGNIFICENT  HOTEL. 

The  Murray  Hill  Hotel  is  situated  on  Park  Avenue  in 
New  York  City,  but  one  block  from  the  Grand  Central 
Dejjot.  A  more  convenient  hotel  Bite  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  newly  arrived  traveler  who  would  at  the  earliest 
moment  find  a  home  could  not  have  been  selected.  The 
house  stands  upon  the  highest  grade  in  New  York,  and,  of 
course  occupies  the  healthiest  i>r  locations.  It  is  of  great 
size,  extending  two  hundred  feet  on  the  Avenue,  more  than 
two  hundred  feet  on  Fortieth  street  on  the  one  side,  and  on 
Forty-first  street  on  the  other.  It  is  of  granite,  brown 
stone  and  brick,  fire-proof  When  the  traveler  finds  a 
hotel  in  every  way  meeting  his  demands  for  comfort,  he 
may  honestly  praise  it  while  he  disparages  no  other.  For 
New  York  contains  manj-  costly  structures,  whose  proprie- 
tors severally  believe  that  their  guests  have  reason  to  be 
satisfied.  Hotels  are  not  advertised  as  second-class  by 
those  that  manage  them  The  man  who  is  used  to  com- 
fort at  home  is  perhaps  as  good  a  judge  as  any  one  con- 
cerning what  constitutes  a  satisfactory  hotel  But,  if  you 
come  to  New  York  in  the  summer,  I  recommend  you  to 
this  house,  for  in  all  this  city  there  can  be  no  healthier 


v»:.f;:.!...;':=^ 


!      I 

i 


156 
-KEEFBR'S- 


GRAND  CENTRAL  HOTEL 

667    to    677    BROADWAY. 


ATTEACTIONS  of  the  QBAND  CENTBAL  HOTEL. 

This  Hotel  is  universally  acknowledged  the  coolest  in  New  York.  The 
wide,  straiKht  haUs  ninnlnic  from  Broadway  to  Mercer  street,  insure  pe:  et 
circulation  of  air.  The  five  large  and  elegant  parlors.  The  handsomely 
decorate<l  and  cheertul  Dining  and  Supper  Rooms.  It  is  provided  with  two 
of  Otis  &  C'o.'8  celebrated  Elevators.  Six  outside  Fire  Escapes  have  been 
recently  added,  which,  with  five  wide  stairways,  from  roof  to  ground  floor, 
makes  the  "GRAND  CFNTRAL  HOTEL" 

THE   SAFEST    HOTEL    IN    AMERICA. 

Kach    floor  in    ilii-    biilKiliiu    in    nlclit^       ,>alroU<>«',    by   m 

watcliiiMin  wUh  »  lell '(ul4>   ■lock. 


is 


T*" 


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-saws 
*  2  -     S 

i  o  3  '  I> 


place  ill  the  warm  season.     There  is  a  satisfaction  felt  at 
once  upon  entrance  to  thin  beautiful  h(Hise.     The  vestibule 
is  apparently  just  large  enough,  the  handsome,  short  flight 
of  marble  steps  that  lead  to  the  office  seems  to  be  just  long 
enough,  the  great  hall  seems  just  high  enough  to  satisfy 
fully  the  idea  that  one  has  of  proper  architectural  propor- 
tion.    The  floor  is  of  marble,  but  not  the  hideous  black 
and  white  inset  diagonal.     The  Siena  is  set  against  the 
slate  and  is  a  carpet  pattern.     One  rather  expects  it  to  be 
soft  and  yielding   to  the  foot,  it  looks  so  like  a  Wilton. 
The  office  is  roomy ;  not  three  or  four  only,  but  forty  peo- 
ple may  range  themselves  along  its  handsome  counter  ready 
to  sign,  in  regular  order,  the  register.     The  book  stand  is 
no  contracted  affair,  but  space  enough  is  given  to  allow 
display  of,  and  easy  access  to,  all  periodicals  and  news- 
papers.    Everything   is  on   a  grand  scale,  but  altogether 
convenient.     The  great  fire-place,   which,  with   its   huge 
burning  logs,  in  winter  invites  the  guest  to  share  its  comfort, 
is  an  attraction  that  merits  and  receives  enthusiastic  com- 
ment.    The  electric  clock,  lighted  at  night,  the  chandeliers 
which  at  the  proper  time,  because  of  a  light  touch  of  a  nob 
somewhere,  instantly  illumine  halls  and  parlors,  have  their 
supply  of  electricity  from  the  great  machines  in  the  base- 
ment, and  the  ice  that  is  used  for  any  purpose  through  all 
the   house   is   made   in   huge   condensers   there.     All  the 
departments  seem  to  be  at  all  times  in  the  best  working 
order.     All  the  employ6s  seem  ever  willing  to  do  their  best 
to  please  the  guest.     There  is  a  painstaking  to  furnish  in- 
formation when  it  is  asked  ;  if  one  clerk  does  not  know  he 
directs  you  to  one  who  does.     In  the  matter  of  meals,  they 
are  ready  at  all  hours.     At  the  time  of  registry,  the  choice 


I 


■f*-' 


J 


is  made  between  the  American  cr  the  European  plan,  but 
the  restaurants  above  and  below  stairs  are  always  available. 
It  would  be  easy  for  me  to  compliment  the  management 
and  the  efficient  office  staff,  but  that  goes  for  the  saying. 
As  space  is  limited,  I  need  only  advise  you  to  give  the 
Murray  Hill  Hotel  your  patronage  once ;  they  will  see  that 
you  make  it  your  home  hereafter. 

The  next  on  the  list  is  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  Broad- 
way, one  of  the  largest  in  the  city.  It  has  lately  been  re- 
fitted, re-decorated  and  re-furnished,  and  under  its  present 
proprietc-',  Messrs.  Keefer  &  Co.,  is  receiving  the  patron- 
age its  merits  deserve.  It  is  run  on  the  American  and 
European  plans,  so  that  anyone  can  be  pleased.  Its  graded 
prices,  its  location  and  appointments,  together  with  the 
friends  one  meets  here  (as  it  is  patronized  by  more  South- 
erne  ts  than  any  hotel  in  New  York),  makes  it  a  pleasant 
place  for  tourist  or  traveler.  I  make  it  my  home  when  in 
the  city,  and  feel  confident  you  will  be  pleased  and  recom- 
mend your  friends  there  after  a  visit,  the  same  as  I  do  you. 
There  was  some  talk  of  changing  the  name  of  this  "  land- 
mark," on  account  of  the  thorough  change  in  the  hotel  and 
management,  although  I  confess  it  would  be  applicable  to 
the  situation,  as  everything  else  has  been  changed,  it  would 
be  better  for  its  patrons  to  advertise  the  changes  than  the 
new  name.  Therefore,  no  matter  what  they  call  the 
Grand  Central,  it  will  please  you  as  a  hotel,  and  its  prices 
are  not  extravagant.  I  take  pleasure  in  mentioning  here 
"  The  old  Democratic  Standard,"  the  Metropolitau  Hotel, 
Broadway,  New  York.  Mr.  Henry  Clair,  the  lessee,  has 
more  hotels  under  his  supervision  than  any  man  in  the 
world,  and  he  surprised  me  more  in  a  ten  minutes'  inter- 


t 


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j^ 


n  plan,  but 
s  available, 
lanagement 
the  saying. 
:o  give  the 
all  see  that 

)tel,  Broad- 
ly been  re- 
its  present 
the  patron- 
lerican  and 

Its  graded 
sr  with  the 
lore  South- 

a  pleasant 
ne  when  in 
and  recom- 
s I  do  you. 
this  "  land- 
e  hotel  and 
ppUcable  to 
id,  it  would 
[es  than  the 
;y  call  the 
i  its  prices 
:ioning  here 
itau  Hotel, 

lessee,  has 
nan  in  the 
nutes'  inter- 


t 


*S9 
The  Favorite   Route  for  Fashionable  Pleasure  Travel. 

SE3-A.SOXT    OB'    18  8  5. 

UTICA  &  BLACK  RIVER  R.R., 

Only  All-Rail  Route  to  tbe  Tbousand  Islands. 

20  Miles  Shortest;  2  Hours  Quickest  Route  to  Clayton 
and  Alexandria  Bay. 

This  route  in  pre-eminently  the  route  tor  Tourist  travel,  and  was  con- 
structed with  that  end  in  view.  It  runs  via  Utica,  Mohawk  River,  Cincinnati 
Creek,  Trenton  Falls.  Highlands  of  Brown's  Tract,  The  Sunset  Slope  of  the 
Adirondacks.  Sugar  River,  Black  River,  and  Indian  River,  to  the  River  St. 
Lawrence.  It  Is  popularly  known  as  the  Elegant  Line  to  the  Islanda,  and  It 
is  absolutely  the  only  scenic  route. 

During  the  summer  season,  elegantly  eouipped  fast  tiuims  are  run  be- 
tween Utica  and  the  River  St.  Lawrence.  These  solid  trains  are  completely 
equipped  with  Westlnghouse  Automatic  Air  Brakes,  making  quick  time  and 
very  ifew  stops.  Tbey  are  run  expressly  for  the  Tourist  Travel,  and  carry 
elegant  new  Through  Coaches  and  Drawing-room  Care.  They  are  In  ever? 
respect  first-class  trains.  5  Bxpr«-s»  Trains  leave  New  ir«n-k 
dally,  except  Sunday.  New  Sleeping  C«r«  on  nlKbt  trains. 
New  DrawlniE-room  Cars  on  day  trains  ran  to  Clayton 
nrlttaont  chauKe. 

The  St,  I^wrence  Steamboat  Express  leaves  Niagara  Falls,  via  N.  Y.  C. 
ft  H.  R.  R.  R.,  8:30  p.  m.,  Buffalo,  4;80  p.  M.  This  train  makes  direct  con- 
nection with  trains  from  Chicago,  Uetroit.  Toledo,  and  all  points  in  the  west. 
It  runs  from  Niagara  Falls  via  Buffalo  and  Rochester  to  Utica,  arriving  at 
Clayton  8 :00  a.  m.  Sleeping  Cars  Niagara  Falls  to  Clayton .  Immediate  con- 
necUon  made  at  Clayton  6:80  R.  &  O.  Navigation  Co.  Steamers,  arriving  at 
Alexaiulrla  Bay  T:80  A.  m..  Montreal  6:80  p  M.,  cameday.  Trains  run  directly 
to  the  steamboat  dock  at  Clayton,  avoiding  all  transfers  and  affording  pas- 
sengers a  full  night's  re«t. 

Immediate  connection  is  n.ade  at  Clayton  with  fast  passenger  steam- 
boats, landing  passongei-s  directly  in  front  of  hotels  at  Round  Island,, 
Thousand  Inland  Park,  urestmlnster  Park,  Alexandria 
Bay,  and  all  Thousand  Island  Besorts. 

BXOVRSION    TICKBTS    AT    AI.I.    OFPIOB8. 

If  you  cannot  get  them,  buy  to  Utica  only.  This  is  ihe  only  American 
AU-Rail  Conn-cting  Line  with  the  Richelieu  4  Ontario  Navigation  Company 
Steamers  for  Montreal. 

4  EXPRESS  TRAINS  LEAVE  CLAYTON  DAILY. 

Wagner  Drawing-room  Cars  Clayton  to  Albany  and  New  York.  Wagner 
Steeping  Cars  Clayton  to  New  York,  also.  Clayton  to  Niagara  Falls,  and  Im- 
mediate connection  for  Saratoga,  Richi'^elu,  Boston  and  New  England  points, 
Chicago  and  the  West.  ^         .      ^  „  ,  ^„ 

The  illustrated  book,  "  Routes  and  Tiates  for  Summer  Tours.'  100  pages, 
profusely  illustrated,  and  containing  maps,  list  of  hotels,  and  routes  and 
rates  for  300  tours,  will  be  mail(4  to  any  address  upon  receipt  of  Ten  cents 
postage.  It  is  the  best  book  given  away.  Send  for  a  copy  before  deciding 
upon  your  summer  trip. 


E.  A.  VAN  HORNE, 

Oeneral  Superinttndmt, 


THEO.  BUTTERFIELD, 

0«n«ral  Paesenger  Agent,  Vtico,  y.  Y. 


i 


t ., 


i6o 

view  than  any  man  ever  -iid.  He  is  a  perfect  encycloi)edia 
of  hotel  business.  Having  become  the  lessee  of  the  follow- 
ing hotels  ought  to  be  a  guarantee  that  what  the  public 
desire  they  will  find  at  the  Metropolitan,  Park  Avenue,  New 
York ;  the  Grand  Union,  Saratoga  Springs ;  and  the  Wind- 
sor, Saratoga.  I  would  like  to  say  here  that  I  published 
this  book  and  advised  the  advertisers  therein  to  take  the 
space,  feeling  it  would  bring  back  to  them  four-fold  what 
they  paid  me.  It  will,  therefore,  afford  me  pleasure  to 
have  you  mention  to  any  of  the  advertisers  that  it  was 
through  my  solicitation  and  this  work  that  you  favored 
them  with  your  patronage ;  it  will  do  you  no  harm  and 
benefit  me. 

Those  tourists  who  go  to  Boston  from  Albany,  over  the 
Boston  and  Albany  Railroad,  will  find  it  a  first-class  route. 

BOSTON 

is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  cities,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  thrilling  traditions  and  historical  associa- 
tions, but  for  public  enterprise  and  social  culture,  educa- 
tional and  literary  facilities,  Boston  is  peculiarly  Boston, 
and  no  one  can  describe  its  public,  private  or  natural  beau- 
ties in  the  space  allotted  me  here.  The  principal  sights  are 
Bunker  Hill  monument,  Faneuil  Hall,  the  Common,  Public 
Garden,  old  and  new  State  houses,  Public  Library,  old  and 
new  South  Churches,  Natural  Histor)'  buildings,  Agricul- 
tural building.  Institute  of  Technology,  new  Trinity  Church, 
Mount  Auburn,  Harvard  University  building,  Music  Hall, 
the  great  organ.  City  Hall,  hospitals  and  other  sights  too 
numerous  to  mention  here.  Trimountain,  or  Three  Moun- 
tains as  Boston  was  originally  called,  is  a  peninsula  of  about 


I 


;ct  encyclopedia 
ee  of  the  foUow- 
ivhat  the  public 
.rk  Avenue,  New 
;  and  the  Wind- 
hat  I  published 
•ein  to  take  the 
n  four-fold  what 
me  pleasure  to 
>ers  that  it  was 
lat  you  favored 
u  no  harm  and 

Ubany,  over  the 
irst-class  route. 


1  cities,  not  only 
istorical  associa- 

culture,  educa- 
iculiarly  Boston, 
or  natural  beau- 
ncipal  sights  are 
!^ommon.  Public 
Library,  old  and 
lildings,  Agricul- 

Trinity  Church, 
ig,  Music  Hall, 
other  sights  too 
or  Three  Moun- 
ninsula  of  about 


I 


i6i 

700  acres,  almost  surrounded  by  the  sea.  Its  climate  in  the 
hottest  part  of  seasons  is  deliciously  cool,  bracing  and  iii* 
vigorating,  and  it  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  healthiest  cities 
in  the  world.  Its  harbor,  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast,  is 
about  twenty  miles  long  by  eight  wide.  Its  many  islands 
and  coast  are  lined  with  thousands  of  delightful  summer 
resorts,  reached  by  numerous  railroads  and  steamboats  every 
hour  of  the  day,  forming  a  panorama  of  busy  life  and  pleas- 
ure to  be  seen  nowhere  else.  Its  drives  inland  are  none 
the  less  interesting  and  picturesque,  whether  we  visit  the 
dassic  shades  of  old  Harvard,  the  romantic  walks  at 
Wellesley,  or  the  hundred  delightful  suburban  villageB, 
whose  well  kept  streets,  bright  lawns,  and  elegant  gardens 
simply  reflect  the  elegance  and  taste  within  the  homes  of 
those  who  made  Boston  what  it  is.  The  excellent  horse-car 
service  of  Boston  is  one  of  the  best  institutions.  Nowhere 
else  in  the  country  is  this  important  convenience  to  visitors 
so  complete  as  here.  The  broad,  handsome  open  cars  reach 
all  points  within  ten  miles  of  the  City  Hall,  and  give  visitors 
a  most  delig  ful  opportunity  to  see  the  attractions  at  the 
least  possible  charge. 

Boston,  the  capital  of  .tiassachusetts,  embraces  Boston 
proper,  East  Boston.  South  Boston,  Roxbury,  West  Rox- 
buiy,  Brighton.  Charleston  and  Dorchester.  Boston  proper, 
or  old  Boston,  was  very  uneven  in  surface,  and  originally 
presenting  three  hills.  Bacon,  Copp's,  and  Fort,  the  former 
of  which  is  about  130  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Indian 
name  of  this  peninsula  was  Shawmut,  meaning  "Sweet 
Waters."  A  narrow  strip  of  land  called  the  '•  Neck,"  joined 
the  peninsula  to  the  main  land;  this  neck  was  formerly 
overflowed  by  the  tide,  but  has  been  filled  in  and  widened. 


!'   ■! 


iTTnr-yr 


mt  Mn  on  h,  Ri  jdg's  Poo  j 

rr^^^OTi^        FOR 


BIBOI'S  FOOD  BnVBXB 
BAFFT  CBIUBOOS. 


It  is  a  fact  that 
more  children 
have  been  saved 
and  successfully 
reared  by 

RIDGE'S  FOOD 

than  by  ALL  THE 
OTHER  FOODS 
COMBINED. 


InfutiudlBTilidi 

Is  a  concentrated  prepAr- 
ation  of  wheat,  and  is  so 
prepared  as  to  be  accept- 
able to  the  most  delicate 
stomach. 

In  case  a  babe  cannot 
have  the  natural  supply. 
Ridge's  food  Is  the  best 
substitute.  It  is  quickly 
prepared,  aud  therefore 
may  always  be  frenli  and 
of  uniform  richness.  By 
observing  the  tpeciul  (It- 
notions,  this  food  can  be 
adapted  to  all  the  various 
needs  of  infantile  life. 
It  ctBBSt  MUM  AotUty  or  Wiai. 

For  young  children  it  is 
invaluable,  as  from  its  pur- 
ity,   strength    and    great 


nourishing  properties,  be- 
ing peculiarly  and  thor- 
oughly cooked  in  its  mauu- 


It  liaa  been  aud 
■till  la  the  claim 
or  the  mannfhc- 
tarem,  aud  haa 
the  tndoraenient 
ofthe  public,  that 

RIDGE'S  FOOD 

la  the  moat  rell« 
able  rood  In  the 
world  ror  Infttnta 
and  Children.  It 
eoniblnea  all  the 
elenieuta  for  Per- 
Cbcl  Growth  aa  In 
no  other. 

Especially  in  cases  of  CHOLERA  INFANTUM,  Chronic  Diarrh^,  and 
all  diseases  of  the  Bowels,  the  use  of  Ridges  Food  is  invaluable.  Not  only 
has  it  an  agreeable  tlavor,  but  the  system  will  retain  and  assimilate  it  when 
everything  else  fails. 
A  T^TTT  mC*  suffering  from  Prostration  of  the  SyittmstaA  General  DtbUityi 
AU  U  ^  1 W  will  find  Ridges  Food  the  desideratum  for  weak  stomachs, 

being  easily  digested,  while  for  all  Summer  Complaints,  as  a  dietetic, 

It  is  invaluable. 
mK<rre*<'nWirnTr*C  w'U   find   in    Kidob's   Food    every    quallflcaUon 
D  X  Sf  JIm  i  IwW  necessary,  as  it  is  a  f<««»»_«'?*«(,!'^.l.!r,^^'°i'!? 


facture,  it  will  furnish  a 
full  meal  for  a  growing 
child. 

It   Is  aeiirMiia*.  .HUla- 

fylnic,  and  ehlldren 

like  It. 


'  the  ttesh-forming  properties  are  retained. 
lOUH  Blanc-Mange,  Custards,  Etc. 


Kidoe's  Food  makes  dellc- 


Sldae'a  Food  la  aold  by 
I  flnit-class  DrumrtatH. 

In  cans,  .ISc  «Mlc,  »tM 
aDd«1.9S.  Two  sues  for 
Canadian  marketo,  85o.  &  (l. 

Mothers  and  nurses,  send 
to  Manufacturers  for  pain 
phlets  (free)  or  g^sat 
value  entitled 

"Healthful  Elnti." 


WOOLRICH  &  CO.,  Manufacturers,  Palmer,  Mass. 


■f. 


I's  roos  simvus 

IFFT  CBIUBOOS. 


I,  has  been  and 
II  la  the  claim 
tlie  mannfhc- 
■em,  and  han 
)  tndoraenient 
the  pnblle,  that 

DGE'S  FOOD 

the  moat  rell- 
le  rood  In  the 
>rld  for  Inftknta 
d  Children.  It 
nibliiea  all  the 
inieiita  for  Per- 
il Growth  aa  in 
other. 

mic  Diarrhoea,  and 
ivaluflble.  Not  only 
il  assimilate  it  when 

and  GeMTol  DebUity 
for  wealc  stomachs, 
laints,  as  a  dietetic, 

every  qualification 
ed  food,  wherein  all 
i  Food  makes  dellc- 


i  Itm  II  I'l  i',  mtmmimmi^illltlmm 


■J 


aimer,  Mass. 


163 

and  i's  now  thickly  built  upon.  East  Boston  occupies  the 
W'>  ,L  portion  of  Noodle's  or  Maverick's  Island.  Here  is 
the  deepest  water  of  the  harbor,  and  here  the  ocean  steam- 
ers chiefly  lie.  The  wharf  now  used  by  the  Cunard  steamei-s 
is  r,ooo  feet  long.  South  Boston  extends  about  two  miles 
along  the  South  side  of  the  harbor,  an  arm  of  which  sep- 
arates it  from  Boston  proper. 

The  first  white  inhabitant  of  Boston  was  the  Rev.  John 
Blackstone,  supposed  to  have  been  an  Episcopal  clergyman, 
and  to  have  arrived  in  1623.  Here  he  lived  until  1630,  when 
John  Winthrop  (afterward  the  first  Governor  of  Massa- 
chusetts) came  across  the  river  from  Charlestown,  where  he 
had  dwelt  with  some  fellow  emigrants  for  a  short  time. 
About  1635  Mr.  Blackstone  sold  his  claim  to  the  now  pop- 
ulous peninsula  for  ^^30,  and  removed  to  Rhode  Island. 
The  first  church  was  built  in  1632 ;  the  first  wharf  in  1673. 
Four  years  later  a  post-master  was  appointed,  and  in  1704 
(April  24th)  the  first  newspaper,  called  the  Boston  News 
Letter,  was  published.  The  "  Boston  Massacre  "  happened 
March  5,  1770,  when  three  persons  were  killed  and  five 
wounded  by  the  fire  of  the  soldiery.  In  1773  tea  was  de- 
stroyed in  the  harbor,  and  Boston  bore  a  conspicuous  part 
in  the  opening  scenes  of  the  Revolution.  The  city  was  in- 
corporated in  1822,  with  a  population  of  45,000,  which  had 
increased  to  136,881  in  1850,  to  177,850  in  i860,  and  250,- 
536  in  1870.  By  the  recent  annexation  of  the  suburbs  of 
Brighton,  Charlestown,  W.  Roxbury,  etc.,  the  population 
has  been  increased  to  341,919,  (in  February,  1876).  Pop- 
ulation 362,876  in  1880.  On  the  9th  of  November,  1872, 
one  of  the  most  terrible  conflagrations  ever  known  in  the 
United  States  swept  away  the  principal  business  portion  of 


1 64 


TAKE  THE  FALL  RIVER  LINE 

BETWEEN 

NEW  YORKmBOSTON 

Renowned  Steamers  *  PILGRIM '  and  '  BRISTOL/ 

THE  GREAT  ROUTE  BETWEEN 

New  York  and  Boston, 

MUSIC  ON  BOTH  STEAMERS, 

Bx'a^is  Baaxa.  a.3XcL  Oi'olx.eslsx'a.. 

Washington,  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  Lowell,  Fltoh- 
burg,  Lawrence,  Taunton,  Portland,  Bangor,  Me., 
St.  John,  N.  B.,  Halifax,  N.  S..  White  Moun- 
tains, Mount  Desert,  and  all  the  Moun- 
tain, Sea-Shore  and  Inland  Re- 
sorts of  New  England  and 
the  ProYinoes. 

Leave  NEW  YORK,  from  Pier  28,  North  Biver,  foot  of  Mnrraf 
Street,  at  6:30  p.  m.,  daily,  Sundays  indndod. 

Leave  BOSTON,  from  Old  Colony  Depot,  cor.  South  and  Kbeeland 
Streets,,  at  6KH)  p.  m.  (Steamboat  Exprece.)  Sundays  7KX)  [.  ri. 

Anneo)  Oonneetion  to  and  from  Brooklyn  and  Jmty  (My. 

Only  49  Miles  of  Rail  Between  New  York  and 
Boston.    No  Night  Changes. 

Trains  equipped  with  the  "  Westtngboiue  Air  Brake  and  Miller  natform.' 

FaseengeTs  bv  Uiis  route  have  a  rou.  trsHT's  anr  on  palatial  Steamers, 
reactains  New  York  or  Boston  at  a  seasonable  hour  in  the  mominc,  and  in 
time  tor  early  connections  for  points  beyond. 

No  intermediate  landings  between  New  York  and  EHU  Biver  after  Jane  W. 

N.  B.— During  winter  months  Steamerft  leave  N.  Y.  at  4:8U  p.  m. 


^i> 


I 


NE 


roN 


nSTOL.' 


)N. 


911,  Fitoh- 
or,  Me., 
oun- 
.n- 


3i  of  Marrajr 

nd  Kheeland 
I  TKH)  p.  ri. 

I'ork  and 


UerPUtform.' 
M»l  Steunera, 
lornlne,  Mid  in 

rafter  June  Se. 
,  m. 


(  I 


165 

Boston.  The  fire  broke  out  on  Saturday  evening,  and  con- 
tinued until  noon  on  the  following  day,  when  it  was  brought 
under  control,  but  again  broke  forth  in  consequence  of  an 
explosion  of  gas,  about  midnight,  and  raged  until  7  o'clock 
Monday  raoming.  The  district  burnt  over,  extended  from 
Summer  and  Bedford  street  on  the  south,  to  near  State  street 
on  the  north,  and  from  Washington  street  east  to  the  harbor. 
About  800  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  city  were  destroyed, 
causing  a  loss  of  $80,000,000. 

OBJECTS  OF  ANTIQUARIAN  INTEREST. 

Among  "  buildings  witi:  a  history,"  the  most  interesting 
in  the  United  States,  next  to  Independence  Hall,  in  Phila- 
delphia, is  Faneuil  Hall.  The  famous  edifice,  the  "  cradle 
of  liberty,"  is  in  Dock  Square,  which  also  has  an  historical 
fame  because  of  the  meetings  of  the  Revolutionary  patriots 
that  was  held  there.  The  building  was  erected  in  1742, 
by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  Huguenot  merchant,  and  by  him  pre- 
sented to  the  town.  Its  original  dimensions  were  100  by 
40  feet.  Destroyed  by  fire  in  1761,  it  was  rebuilt  in  1763, 
and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensions  in  1805.  A  full 
length  portrait  of  the  founder,  together  with  the  pictures  of 
Washington,  by  Stuart,  of  Webster,  by  Healey,  of  Samuel 
Adams,  by  Copeley,  and  portraits  of  John  Quincy' Adams, 
Edward  Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln,  and  Governor  Andrew 
adorn  the  walls.  The  basement  of  the  hall  is  a  market. 
The  old  State  House,  in  Washington  street,  at  the  head  of 
State  street,  was  erected  in  178,  and  was  for  half  a  cen- 
tury the  seat  of  the  "  Great  and  General  Court  of  Massar 
chusetts,"  being  the  building  of  which  such  frequent  men- 
tion is  made  in  revolutionary  annals.     It  has  long  been 


i:, 


t66 

given  up  to  business  purposes,  the  interior  having  been 
completely  remodeled,  and  the  edifice  surmounted  by  a  roof 
which  has  wholly  destroyed  the  quaint  effect  of  the  original 
architecture.  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  in  Salem  street, 
near  Copp's  Hill,  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city,  having 
been  erected  in  1722.  It  has  a  lofty  steeple,  and  in  the 
tower  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells.  The  Old  South  Church, 
comer  of  Washington  and  Milk  streets,  is  an  object  of 
much  interest,  it  is  of  brick,  and  was  built  in  1729,  on  the 
site  where  the  first  edifice  of  the  society  had  stood  since 
1669.  The  church  was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the 
heroes  of  '76,  and  during  the  British  occupation  of  the  city, 
was  used  as  a  place  for  cavalry-drill.  It  barely  escaped  the 
flames  in  the  great  fire.  The  Old  South  Society  having 
erected  a  new  place  of  worship  on  Boylston  street,  the  old 
building  was  offered  for  sale,  when  a  patriotic  effort  among 
the  people  originated  a  subscription  for  the  purpose  of  rais 
ing  funds  to  secure  its  preservation.  King's  Chapel  (Uni- 
tarian), corner  Tremont  and  School  streets,  was  founded  in 
1686,  and  the  present  building,  a  plain  granite  structure^ 
erected  in  1750-54.  Adjoining  the  church  is  the  first  bury- 
ing ground  established  in  Boston  In  it  are  buried  Isaac 
Johnson,  *'  the  father  of  Boston,"  Governor  Winthrop,  John 
Cotton,  and  other  distinguished  men.  On  the  comer  of 
Washington  and  School  streets,  is  the  Old  Comer  Book- 
store, a  building  dating  from  1712.  The  old  North  Bury- 
ing-ground,  on  the  brow  of  Copp's  Hill,  was  the  second 
.established  in  the  city,  and  is  still  sacredly  preserved.  Here 
lies  three  fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs.  Increase,  Cot- 
ton and  Samuel  Mather. 


i67 


THE  OLD  CEMETERY  IN  THE  COMMON. 

In  that  corner  of  the  Common  bounded  by  Tremont  and 
Boylston  streets,  and  lying  directiy  between  the  Masonic 
Temple  and  the  Public  Library,  is  an  old  burying  ground, 
shut  off  from  the  Common  and  the  streets  by  an  iron  fence. 
It  v/As  formerly  known  as  the  South,  and  later  as  the  Cen- 
tral burying-ground.  It  was  opened  in  1756,  but  the  oldest 
stone  is  dated  1761.  The  best  known  name  upon  any  of 
the  ancient  stones  is  that  of  Monsieur  Julien,  the  most 
noted  restaurateur  of  the  city  a  century  past;  and  the  in- 
ventor of  the  famous  soup  that  still  bears  his  name.  This 
cemetery  is  the  least  interesting  of  the  old  burying  places 
of  Boston,  and  is  consequently  seldom  noticed  by  the 
stranger. 

There  are  according  to  the  directory  nearly  two  hundred 
hotels  in  the  city.  With  that  fact  in  view  I  shall  mention 
first  the  American  House  and  United  States.  In  suggesting 
to  intending  visitors  to  Boston  the  name  of  the  "  Old 
United  States  Hotel"  the  proprietor  feels  justified  in  rec- 
ommending the  house  for  just  what  it  is,  no  more,  no  less. 
I  am  at  home  when  in  the  United  States  Hotel,  Boston ; 
it  pleases  me,  and  I  am  positive  it  will  please  you  The 
hotel  w.'is  built  over  half  a  century  ago,  as  a  great  family 
hotel,  wherein  most  of  the  owners  and  their  families  resided. 
As  a  consequence,  it  was  arranged  more  for  safety,  comfort, 
and  convenience  than  the  more  modem  and  pretentious 
hotels. 

The  U.  S.  Hotel  covers  an  entire  square,  nearly  two 
acres  of  ground,  surrounding  large  open  spaces,  by  which 
every  room  in  the  house  is  open  to  the  sunlight  and  plenty 


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AMERICAN  HOUSE 

,,  BOSTON. 

*  •  S«r)tr«l  •  b*ceti»r),  ■  ^epfecf  •  VerjtiUttBi).    • 


UN&XCFPTIONABLE   TABLE. 

THE   NEAREHT 

FIRST    CLASS    HOTEL 

To  Northern  and  Eastern  Di'iiotB. 

Particularly   Desirable    for   Families  and  Tourists. 
Conveni  jutly   Located   for   Either   Busi- 
ness or   Pleasure. 


Rooms  with  Meals,  $3.00  per  Day  and  Upwards, 

Rooms  Only,  $  1  .OO  per  Day  and  U  nwards, 

Aocording  to  Size  and  Location. 

Parlors  anu   13aths  Extra. 

REFITTED  SND  GREHTLY  IMPROVED 

•      BY  RECENT  ALTERATIONS. 

HENRY  B.  RICE  &  CO.,  Pr^pYs, 

Hanover,  near  WashingtoL   St. 


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169 

of  fresh  air ;  and  there  are  no  guests'  rooms  above  the  third 
Hoor,  while  eight  separate  and  distinct  stairways  reach  from 
tlie  upper  floor  to    '>e  street. 

These  items  of  sunlight,  and  rooms  below  the  clouds, 
with  plenty  of  direct  and  convenient  accesses  to  the  street, 
will  recommend  themselves  to  all  thinking  people,  and  ,/m 
need  no  comment  by  us. 

Terms.— Th  ■  present  proprietor,  Mr.  Tilly  Haynes,  took 
possession  of  the  property  in  1880  for  a  long  term  of  years 
at  a  nominal  rental ;  and  it  has  been  the  aim  to  make  it  a 
comfortable  and  homelike  house,  regulating  the  charges  ac- 
cording to  rooms  required,  from  I2.50  to  $3.50  per  day, 
thus  meeting  the  wants  of  the  most  economical  or  the  most 
sumptuous,  our  motto  being  excellence  without  extrava- 
gance. When  you  are  in  Boston  and  wish  to  visit  one  of 
the  most  popular  sea  side  resorts,  I  cheerfully  refer  you  to 
the  Masconavao  House,  Manchester  (by  the  sea),  lass. 
This  delightful  spot  is  owned  by  Mrs.  John  Schoefel,  for- 
merly Mrs.  J.  B.  Booth,  and  is  under  the  management  of 
my  dear  friend,  Mr.  George  Holliday,  and  if  you  hs.ve  only 
time  to  call,  take  the  train  at  the  Eastern  Depot  almost  any 
hour,  and  if  you  only  stay  as  long  as  he  will  make  it  pleas- 
ant for  you,  it  will  be  plenty  long  enough.  Let  me  call 
your  attention  to  the  American  Fiouse,  Boston. 

The  American  House,  Boston,  is  the  nearest  first-class 
hotel  to  the  Northern  and  Eastern  Railroad  Depots,  and 
can,  without  hesitation,  be  recommended  as  one  of  the  best 
in  the  city.  It  has  broad,  well  lighted  corridors,  spacious 
public  rooms  an  all  modem  improvements  for  the  con 
venience  of  guests,  and  has  long  been  noted  for  the  cleanli- 


M    .■111^ 


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170 

ness  and  comfort  of  its  rooms,  the  invariable  excellence  of 
its  table,  and  that  air  of  home-like  comfort  which  is  so  re- 
freshing to  the  tired  traveler.  It  has  a  large  number  of 
suites  particularly  desirable  for  families  and  large  parties, 
and  contains  no  dark  rooms  in  which  to  store  away  an  un- 
suspecting midnight  guect.  It  is  perfectly  ventilated,  has 
six  stairways  from  top  to  bottom,  and  recently  renovated 
and  imjjroved  furnishes  superior  accommodations  at  more 
moderate  rates  than  most  first-class  hotels.  It  is  regularly 
kept  on  the  American  plan,  charging  $3.00  and  $3.50  |)er 
day,  according  to  size  and  location  .of  rooms,  and  is  de- 
servedly popular  with  the  best  class  of  pleasure  and  com- 
mercial travelers,  but  rooms  are  let  with  or  without  meals, 
at  the  option  of  guests. 

One  of  the  best  traveling  companions  on  a  pleasure  trip 
is  a  reliable  Railway  Guide,  and  we  advise  the  tourist  to 
get  the  best,  as  a  cheap  guide  is  like  a  cheap  watch,  never 
on  time. 

As  we  hold  that  this  little  volume  is  not  thrown  away, 
but  taken  home  for  future  reference,  a  little  advice  of  how 
to  start  upon  a  trip,  &c.,  would  not  come  amiss.     We  say 

I8t,  Select  your  route,  ad.  Buy  your  tickets  and  secure 
your  parlor  car  seats.  3d,  Show  your  tickets  to  the  baggage 
master  and  have  your  baggage  checked.  4th,  Go  to  the 
news  stand  and  ask  for  The  "  Phat  Boy's"  Delineations  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  or  the  Pathfindrr's  Railway  Guide, 
as  it  is  the  oldest  railway  guide  published,  and  the  July 
number  will  contain  the  best  railroad  map  ever  published. 
It  is  the  only  recognized  mouth  piece  of  the  Passenger 
Agents  Association  ;  one  can  be  assured  of  its  reliability. 
The  Phat  Boy  requests  his  friends  to  send  to  them  next 


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5i|<nng  for  a  copy  of  their  summer  tours  to  select  your  vaca- 
titn  trip.  Address,  Pathfinder,  Boston,  Mass.  5th,  Don't 
boiher  the  conductor  by  asking  questions,  as  he  has  all  he 
can  do  to  attend  to  his  train,  and  the  Pathfinder's  official 
tables  and  valuable  maps  tells  the  whole  story. 

I  have  endeavored  to  describe  faithfully  and  correctly  the 
{  route   over  which  you  have   passed,  dear  reader.     There 

are,  doubtless,  some  whose  knowledge  of  particular  points 
is  greater  than  my  own ;  to  those  I  say  most  cheerfully,  note 
them  down,  and  forward  to  me,  21  Chestnut  Park,  Roches- 
i  ter,  N.  Y.,  and,  I  assure  you,  they  shall  have  a  position  in 
the  next  edition  of  this  work,  as  my  object  and  aim  is  to 
make  this  a  perfect  guide  for  any  person  desirous  of  making 
this  the  finest  trip  on  the  continent. 
M  After  returning  home  and  resuming  the  cares  and  posi- 

1  tion  which  you  left  behind  for  this  trip,  may  you  be  filled 
I  .  with  animation,  life  and  health  acquired  by  your  excursion 
'  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  etc.,  and  the  pleasant  mem- 

ories of  scenes  witnessed,  wonders  visited,  as  well  as  the 
beauties  of  nature  revealed,  you  will  have  double  the  vigor 
to  prosecute  the  duties  devolving  upon  you,  with  only  spare 
time  on  hand  to  speak-  to  your  acquaintances  and  friends 
recommending  them  to  make  the  same  trip,  not  forgetting 
to  mention  The  "Phat  Boy's"  Historical  Delineations  as  a 
guide  for  hotel,  and  all  points  of  interest  connected  with 
'  the  trip.     I  will  now  lift  my  hat  to  the  tourist  and  others 

who  have  made  the  trip,  and  bid  them  a  temporary  fare- 
well.    Hoping  to  see,  next  vacation,  yourself  and  friends,  I 

only  say 

ADIEU.  . 


J 


^Li^iii'iiiMlHSKUMS 


17a 


Wm.  S.  Kimball  &  Co., 

ROCHESTER,   N.  Y. 


ABSOLUTELY  PURE  CIGARETTES. 

/FRAGRANT    VANITY    FAIR 

AND    CLOTH    OF    COLD. 


YffNITY  FHIR  SND  OLD  GOLD 

THE    POPULAR    SMOKIMG    TOBACCOS. 

PEERLESS    FINE    CUT. 

SOLD  BY  ALL  DEALERS. 


■Jlgmmmi 


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3LD. 


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! 


For    Comfort,    Safety    and    Convenience,    Choose    In 
Traveling,    East   or    West, 

THE  CENTRAL  VERMONT 


•WHICH  TORMS  ITS  OONNWrnON  WITH  TK» 

GRAND    TRUNK    RAILWAY, 

The  Old  and  Favorite  New  England  Route 

to  am  nou  all  poi»t8  msr. 


The  Rolling  Stock  and  Eqnlpment  of  the  OENTRAL  VERMONT  B.  B.  1( 
second  to  no  road  In  the  country.    It  1b  she  only  line  running 

PlJI^I^lttAN    SI<££PING    CARS 

Butwwn  Chicago  and  BoBtoo  without  change,  and  solid  trains  of  elegant 
CoBCbos  add  Baggage  Can,  without  rhange  between  Monti eal  and  Boston. 

Htecl  Hulls,  Iron  BrUlKus,  with  Westfnghonse  Air  Brake,  Miller  Platform, 
Coupler  and  BufTiiron  every  train,  asHures  safety  while  passing  swiftly  through 
Mountain,  Lake  and  River  Scenery  of  the  most  beautif ul  and  varieii  description. 

The  train  service  of  this  road  Is  so  arranged  that  sure  connections  are  made 
with  the  Orand  Trunk  Railway,  and  with  railroads  In  New  England  to  and  from 
•11  the  principal  cities,  towns  and  villages  In 

MassachiMetts,  Rhode  Island,  Conneotlcut  and  Vermont. 

Wasrner  Cars,  Montreal  to  New  York  v>'Ithout  change. 
Pullman  Palace  Cars  run  to  Boston  via  this  Line. 

Also  flrst^lass  Restaurants  with  reasonable  charges,  and  ample  time  given 
for  meals. 

UfBaggBge  checked  through  Canada  in  Bond,  avoiding  all  trouble  of 
Customs. 

During  the  summer,  EXCURSION  TICKETS  are  sold  over  this  line  at  greatly 
reduced  rates.  Ask  for  rates  via  this  line  beforn  Iniylng,  and  note  that  your 
tlckeUread  via  CENTRAL  VERMONT  RAILROAD,  for  sale  at  all  Stations  and 
responsible  Ticket  OIHoes,  East  and  West. 

COMPANY'a  OFPICE8-300  Washington  BtreeH,  Boston;  817  Broadway.  New 
Tork;  188  St.  Jamos  Street,  Montreal. 

A.  C.  ST0NE6RAVE,  Agent,  i36  St.  James  Street,  Montreal. 

J.  W.  HOBART,  eeneral  ManhQer. 

S.  W.  CUMMIN6S,  Seneral  Fatsenger  Agent. 


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/*% 


